RedBullDog

What year model, engine etc.... without any info, my first guess would be a ground issue to ecm. Any codes?

Poor guy running it looks about as enthused as I get when its time to mow.

As far as I am aware, all current Mack transmissions are triple shaft designs.

I second milkman. I have bought some kumho drives for my IH from Rudolph, my sales guy was Shawn I believe. Bought them last summer, $385 a piece for lo pro 24.5 drives. I had a positive expirience and will call them when it's time to buy tires for the Mack. Beaver express driver stacked 'em neatly in the shop too.

I've got an update, after crawling under the truck and trailer to grease slacks, I mashed the brake pedal hard 3 or 4 times. The last press i heard a sound like rushing air. I went to the back to see about the sound and saw trailer brake lights on, I tested them several times and they are working every time. Maybe there was a blockage in the air line to the brake switch? Anyway, prayer answered.

Yes, that was my first try. There is no power to brake lights at the plugin mounted on the chassis, and if you follow it to under the hood there is no power at the little row of hookups for the trailer wiring. thats why I thought fuse or switch. But I never saw a fuse designated for trailer lights on the passenger dash and the giant one on the firewall under the hood is good.

OK Gurus, here's one that i need help on.

I have brake lights at the tractor but there is no power to the brake lights in the trailer pigtail. I have checked the fusebox on the passenger dashboard where the glovebox would be and the small one by the steering shaft under the hood. Are there any additional fuseboxes I have overlooked.

Since I have brake lights on the tractor I assumed the brake switch must be good, but is there a seperate one for the trailer maybe? Truck is a 2001 CH613

If he walked away from all that I will think a little higher of Nissans from now on, and he must be living right..

I thought the CH's had the extra bump on the cam for egr and the cxn was different. Am I wrong, if so sorry, I looked at too many Macks over the last 8 weeks. I think whats left of my brain ran away. The 14 and 44 setup would be pretty nice as a move truck setup.

I would rather have a air ride truck for a detachable lowboy trailer.

Yes, there are some good points to air ride with a lowboy, but if he is moving track hoes and such the spring ride will shine once on location. I'm still coming to grips with camelback as this is my first non air ride truck since the farming days. The end dump I bought has the lame stick stands, not retractable geared legs, so no air dumps is a change. One major plus is, when I pull out from under it, the kingpins so high it's "unstealable"

My truck doesn't have a coolant filter, but on other equipment I've worked on the check ball goes in first. The spring holds the check ball in place inside the housing. So from the way you say it, the "bearing" is closer to the radiator.

Update: The fuel leak is coming from the fuel line fitting, and it is pretty constantly dripping. By the looks of earlier posts it sounds like o rings on the ccrs body. How hard is it to pull the thing out for new orings? Do I need to have any special tools? Will also pick up Thermostat at dealer after Christmas. Thank you in advance, and Merry Christmas.

Thank you for the quick response, I will check that return line in the morning. I was really surprised how well it rode coming home without a trailer. Actually seemed no worse than my old air ride truck bob tailing.

Brought home a new to me 2001 Mack CH613 today. The setup is 460 xt, 18 speed mack trans, 4.42 mack rears on 38k camels, tall 24.5 rubber.

Issue 1, there is a fuel leak at the back cylinder under the little sheet metal covers on passenger side, the fuel line is tight but it leaks as if it was not. It leaves a puddle on the ground after idling for a few minutes.

Issue 2, The transmission makes a little gear clash type sound in the top gear but if I just ease the shifter over a little it is quiet, it acts like the shifer is too far to the left by a hair and causing it to ride against the shift fork or something.

Issue 3, The oil pressure gauge just sits at 45 psi, never up or down with oil and engine temp or engine speed, sender shot?

Also must need a thermostat, it ran 150 degrees for 380 miles home, bobtail.

So far, outside of these little things I love the truck, it feels solid on the road.