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Nice color. Ironically orange and reds are very difficult to see at night. They become a dark color in reduced light which is why many FD's in the 70's experimented with lime green and yellows for their fire apparatus. I had the personal embarrassment of having to be around a fluorescent orange pumper until some sanity returned to our fleet people and we went back to our standard white over red. The cost of the orange paint was twice what the standard red was and it didn't prove to be any more resistant to being hit. I never could figure out how a different paint color would make a rig more visible if the moron driving the vehicle that hit us couldn't see the ten thousand flashing lights we used. (My favorite was the drunk who centered her car on the line of flares we were using to direct traffic around us on the Beltway until she hit the pumper blocking the scene for us. And you wonder why we always block an extra lane?)

That's just Alaskan air conditioning.

Most likely a sloppy, lazy mechanic dropped it when it was replaced. They probably had the top end open. It may have been a rod that was OK until it got chewed up by the crank.

It isn't just rarity that drives price, it is also demand. My 52 A model is very rare, only 38 built, but it will never be valuable because there is limited demand for it. The demand for these vehicles will not last at those prices, so if you want to cash in on the bubble you better get yours to market soon.

A friend recently acquired a 1925 White fire truck that he is planning on restoring.

I'm glad you were able to get the information on your find. Now what are your plans for the truck?

If you mean you need to remove some caked on grease then pads or emery will work fine, but if you are trying to remove the ring cut into the seal surface than I don't think it will work. If the surface is cut you can either try to re-position the seal a little by not seating it as much or you can get a sleeve to slide over the hub that will provide a new sealing surface.

Looks good Mike. I hope you enjoy it for a long time and I'm glad it went to someone who treasures it.

This trend will quickly fade when everyone and their brother starts bringing Broncos, Blazers, and Scouts to every auction that is out there. The price of collectibles is always dependent on supply and condition. With as many of these that were made the supply will quickly grow to exceed demand and the price bubble will burst.

Old Rosenfeld truck if I remember correctly. All of Rich's trucks are beautiful.

Although it kills me the Jack cut up number one of a pretty rare series of A model pumpers to make his truck you have to love how it turned out. The Cummins 5.9 is a great fit for an A model re-power. I ended up buying the gas engine he removed for a friend who is re-doing a Type 45.

That is ingenious; my bet is the same guy who drives it to the land fill is probably a call guy who drives the tanker as well. Plus it exercises a truck that would probably get no more than a few hundred miles a year on it otherwise.

I'd check to see if air is getting to the right wheel since you replaced all of the brake parts. A pressure gauge attached to the end of the line may tell you the story.

Welcome aboard. I suggest you send the chassis number to the museum along with a suitable donation, to get the package for your truck. It will include an owner's manual, the truck's original buyer, and much more information. If you will settle for "dog dish" style hubcaps instead of the original moon style the sponsor of this site, Watts Mack, has them. The original style can be found, but they can be pricey and finding them in good enough condition to use is almost impossible. The last price I got to re-hab and plate a rough set was $1000.00. Both the front and rear glass are flat and can be made locally. Same with the door glass. Whats wrong with the doors you have? Same as the hub caps; can be found, but most probably will need extensive work to be used. Look on eBay for the headlight lens. The saying on the site is "No pictures; it didn't happen" Lets see some pics of your treasure.

We used the same system on an IH Paystar for our command center, communications module, and shoring systems for the Technical Rescue team starting in the late 80's. It was OK, but inevitably we needed more than one module at one time and it just didn't work out over time. The last significant incident we used it on was the Pentagon on 9/11. We needed all 4 modules and it took the better part of the day to get them all there. Everything old is new again. I wonder who ended up with the Paystar. It had about 8000 miles on it after 15 years.

Collector owned by Tom Herman, Chesterfield, VA.

I agree, but $100.00 to protect what should be a very special, if not irreplaceable, truck seems pretty cheap to me. Kind of off the subject, but I'll never understand how someone can spend six figures to restore a truck, or even $20K for a hobby truck, and then cheap out on protecting it from a fire by not installing a detection system in their storage area and doing whatever they can to prevent a fire in their prized possession.

Before you believe everything the rep says I'd ask him to prove it. The limp mode is part of the ECU and I seriously doubt the engine builder would allow it to be defeated.

Burned up an R model rescue (and the fire house it was in) from this. That is why I always urge the use of a battery cut off switch at the battery for hobby trucks. If you are not in a great hurry keep your eye on eBay for welding wire. I have made a couple of good scores there over the years.

Nice rig for someone who wants to haul a toy with a toy.

Technically it always goes to Sunday, but you are correct; it basically is over Saturday afternoon.

You sow what you reap. You must be a very good boss and a very good place to work. If the owners set the tone that they take pride in the equipment the employees will also. Most owners don't get it; if you are a good place to work and expect good behavior for all employees and yourself, good employees will come and stay while the shitheads will quickly move on to a less demanding place.

If you have a PN for the box the museum will send the drawing to you pretty quickly. Send them an e-mail to get the info. They are usually so busy that they don't have the time to stop and help out someone who just shows up at the museum.

You can place fuel pressure gauge in the system to see what is going on. A gauge mounted on a "T" at the fuel filter inlet would let you know what the pressure is at the filter. Since the truck ran correctly before it sat I would look for a simple problem like a kinked hose or a blockage caused by mud daubers. Take the time to think through what could be damaged by just sitting instead of jumping to the conclusion that it is something serious. I'd take the return line loose and check for fuel flow first. If not blow it out.

I'll play the devil's advocate; Why? If it is a "C" model it will be hard to find a diesel, but if it is a CF it will be easier and cheaper to find a diesel rather than attempt to re-power a gasser. Even if the truck is a favorite from your past I'd clone a diesel rather than go to the expense and trouble of a re-power.