fxfymn

Move to the desert. Seriously, most older stuff was just not built to survive for 50 plus years, so total rust prevention was never an engineering goal. About the best you can do is keep after it and treat minor rust spots as soon as you can by cleaning and touching them up. Keeping the weep holes open and not allowing crap to build up like leaves and dirt that hold moisture is also important.

Several places; my local auto paint shop has it and it is available at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Achassis saver paint Here is the link to the manufacturer's site http://magnetpaints.com/ They sell directly as well.

Ours is heading to a nice warm bath in 350 degree oil so it should be. That along with the local Charleston, SC oysters my son got should make for a fine meal.

Here is my previous ride; Kubota 3430 with a Meyers 7.5 blade. I just replaced it with a Kubota 4060 cab tractor which I haven't had time to get pictures of yet.

Here's hoping everyone has a great day and gets to spend it with the ones who are the most special in your life. I hope all of us can take the time to be thankful for all of the blessings in life we have and not focus on the trials we all face. Happy Thanksgiving

Our thoughts and prayers as well.

If you need a paint like Por-15 for your project you might check into using "Frame Saver" from Magnet Paints. I have used both and I do not see any difference between the two except frame saver is about half the cost.

I have had many of the same issues with a truck I did that I never had the chance to run a lot before I started on it. If you have the cash you will never regret replacing all of the oil sealing gaskets and all of the rubber parts you can easily access now. At the very least I would do the main seal and the clutch throw out bearing. I would also consider doing the water pump while it is so easy to get to. One of the big differences between a working truck and a hobby rig is that you will have a very nice finish on the truck and every time you take it down to do a major repair you will take the chance of screwing up your finish work. The more you can do now to keep you from having to tear it apart in the near future the happier you will be. Plus when you are done you want to take it out to shows and not be spending all of your time working on it.

Looks good. Not being critical, just curious; did you put any kind of sealer on the frame where the outer layer buckles away to keep water from getting in there?

Probably a topic for a whole different thread, but...To me the restoration of any vehicle should suit the owner that is paying the bill. If you like the original paint everything in sight and get it out the door look than go for it. I would probably prefer to tidy it up a bit, especially since any work needed down the road would require a complete re-spray to get the "proper" look back, but that is just me. I think that you need to decide what you want to do with the truck before you start the process. I keep my 52 looking pretty much as it was when it was in-service, including using enamel paint to keep the original look. On the 25 I'm doing I want to get it "better than new", so I'll use modern multi-stage paint and go for a plating quality that the factory never strived for. This is why I like doing trucks, not cars. Truck folks are not picky or pretentious no matter their station in life; they don't care if the number of threads per inch in the upholstery matches the OEM seats. They just appreciate a well done job and the fact that you saved a piece of history for the next generation to enjoy.

Nice truck. At the Allison site you can enter your transmission's SN and it will give you the details. The counter person where you get the filters should also be able to set you up with the correct quantity and type of fluid.

And I thought I was the only anal person here. It just kills me to see a "restored" rig done incorrectly. I'm not talking AACA make sure the correct hose clamps are used, but just getting the right details such as using clamps to hold wires and hoses and period correct accessories. The real shame is many owners have the vehicle done professionally and it still has items such as the ones apparent here.

There is a very interesting article in the newest Hemmings Classic Car about Stan Holtzman and his truck photography. The article is headlined by a very neat picture of a post war conventional cab Corbett that he photographed. The thing that strikes me most about the picture is the truck is not that much different than what is on the road today. Diesel, tandem axle, sleeper, etc. Obviously today's trucks are much more refined and powerful, but the basic truck set up is pretty much the same. I did note that there was only one wiper; the passenger side doesn't have one. I think an interesting article for one of the truck magazines would be to profile the various truck photographers that are out there.

It is not all that difficult to find someone who will do a quality paint job for you if you look around. In Philly one of my first calls would be to Hal Fillinger, http://halfillinger.com/ , to see who he uses. Another good contact would be John Statts, Firemack on here. He managed the restoration of Radnor's B-75 and he can tell you who they used. I know of a couple of painters in the Northern VA area that do great award winning work at a reasonable price if you are interested. As for paint before assembly; it is really nice to be able to paint and then assemble, but it is also easy to scratch up a panel while putting it together. I assume you are doing body work to the panels, so you will need to completely assemble the truck before painting just to make sure everything still goes together right. If you don't do this and a newly painted panel doesn't quite fit right you will be kicking yourself. Pro restoration shops usually paint and then assemble, but they have a whole crew to hold things to keep from scratching them up and they have experience at doing this. My friends that do their own work paint and then assemble, but they usually get a crew together to help out for the assembly part.

I hope the restoration skills are better than the typing for the ad...I would never pay that much for a Mack "V" model.

I'll be pretty surprised if that one doesn't end up at Keystone.

Andy, Sent you a PM. Carl

Please let Walt McCall know about the ALF stuff you have. If it is original I'm sure he will want to know about it.

Neat pic. Does anyone know the story behind it? I see the IH is fleet numbered 2 digits behind the H model and the H appears to have the driver's name on the door. I assume they were O/O's?

Thank you; I may not stop laughing all day. Proving one of my favorite sayings (as a firefighter) "Thank god for stupid people or I wouldn't have a nice house."

FYI; Chevy is introducing a brand new Duramax in January. My SWAG is any left overs will be reduced even more. OBTW my 2011 Dmax has had several issues with the DEF system. Overall I like the truck, but it has frustrated me on several occasions with emissions issues that require a trip to the dealer for a one to two day stay. I'm pretty sure a 2017 Ford F-350 is my next choice.

Was that the ex-fire truck cab? Are you going to give it a quick primer coat to keep it from rusting?

Glad it worked out. I learned that little factoid when a not so attentive fellow managed to run a front line pumper out of fuel while driving to the fuel pump at the rear of the station. Since it was late and we did not want to cause any more problems for the driver (running a fire truck out of fuel is worth a couple of day suspension or a written reprimand at best) we tried like hell to prime it with no luck. I called a friend who was a full time diesel mechanic and he told me to try the WD-40. That was well over 40 years ago and I have used that trick since then on many a GM 6.2 to get them primed.

Not to hijack the thread, but FF safety is a hot button issue for me. My comment...stand beside the truck to back it in, not on the tail board. No one ever got run over by standing beside the truck, not so for those who fall from the back step. And the dept. needs to add an extension to the rear dump that will pivot from side to side so you can drive up beside the tank; a much faster and safer way to unload and improve cycle time.

Plus you get to look cool while you do it.