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Nice pics. Thanks. Any idea about who owns the fire truck on the back of the wrecker? It looks to be a 75A or a 505A and I'd like to get the chassis number if I can.

What Randy says. Any time you open a drain plug or valve and you don't see water (or Coolant) coming out you need to ensure the drain is not blocked. Use air, a piece of wire, or water pressure to make sure the drain is actually open.

Just remember that if you cap off the drains the pump will freeze if it is stored in below freezing temps this winter. I'd leave a reminder on the dash that you need to uncap the lines come this fall.

At least you got it to sound like a Jimmy. Does it leak oil yet?

Did the door close before you replaced all of those parts or did you replace the parts because the door would not close?

That is a pretty common problem for a lot of us. Given the low miles I put on mine, and the fact that the filter probably doesn't do a whole lot, I clean and re-use the filter. You can also just take the filter out. Here is one possible source: http://www.filtermart.com/

The cooler is actually for the engine, not the pump. It's purpose was to circulate cooler pump water through a heat exchanger to transfer heat from the engine to the pump water. Most folks with antique rigs block them off and make sure they are drained as they are a very common item to freeze and split. As long as you can block off the pipe as it comes out of the pump you will be fine to leave the heat exchanger as it is.

There has to be a whole lot more to the story than the picture conveys. Given the damage that shows the tires had to have burned and would have been replaced when the picture was taken or it was never on fire and the damage was caused by some type of environmental impact. Also most of the lights are not broken and the steering wheel appears to still be there.

Don't do it; they are by-pass filters, not the full flow filters used on modern stuff.

The journey of a 1000 miles begins with one step; start at the ass end and work your way forward to the gauges, etc. Every re-build, restoration, or freshening up I ever do scares the shit out of me at one time or another because it seems so overwhelming. When that happens I focus on one small thing I know I can get done and try like hell to not even think about the total project.

Finally a GM product as quiet as a Prius.

Not to be too cynical, but $10K is probably twice the real value. I'm guessing this was a parade piece? If so it is probably worth fixing for the fire company. I'm sure there are plenty of members who regret letting their (absolutely beautiful) A and B models go. I hope they don't do the same with this piece.

If you go with LED's you can greatly cut back on the wire gauges. i.e. most tail light circuits are 14 or 16 ga., but an LED could reduce that to as low as 22. On the trucks that I have totally re-wired I used a similar theory to how you wire a house. Decide on the fixture and location, figure out which can be run on the same circuit, wire the fixtures together that share a circuit,and then do a "home run" from there back to the circuit box and/or switch. After all the home runs are done you can figure out how many circuits you will need in the box. I label each home run with masking tape. If you want to make a loom do the home runs and leave them on the floor until you bundle them in what ever covering you choose. If I'm not concerned about maintaining the originality of the rig I use a waterproof junction box like these: https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Wiring-Junction-Box-Troubleshooting/dp/B01HR7VGJW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1467724266&sr=8-8&keywords=automotive+waterproof+electrical+junction+box I use a separate color for each circuit and be sure to make a chart of which color goes to each circuit for future reference. With the advent of heat shrink connectors it is much easier to do than it ever was. Good luck.

Unless they are NLA. It will be a PIA, but you should run the PN to see if they are still available. What are your plans for the parts? Individual sales or just sell the whole lot?

Have you tried here: http://manuals-epc.com/iveco-stralis or here: http://www.pdfsdocuments.com/iveco-ecu-wiring-diagram.pdf I'd try to verify that the sites are real since this is a pretty common way to infect your computer with hostage ware or other bugs.

Sold at the show!

He had the truck at the Winchester show last fall. It is definitely a project; pretty much all there, but pretty rough around the edges. The classic "ran when parked". It was sold by the Promised Land (PA) FD to the current owner's Dad. Upon inspection I seriously doubt it was ever a fire truck since it does not have a transfer case or any evidence it ever had a pump on it. My best guess is that it might have been used as a tanker. I also think it came from another FD which might have used it as a fuel truck, but that is just an educated guess. The gold leaf and the current door markings are entirely different. Someone who is familiar with the history of the larger fire departments in PA or NY may recognize it. As always price is a difficult thing to settle. The current owner is pretty proud of the truck while the rest of the world is probably not so enamored. I think he was asking over $20K at the show.

What General Ike said. And one of the old tricks for getting a prime is to dump the tank water into the pump and out the hard sleeve to evacuate the air. It is kind of like the old song about using the last water to prime the pump instead of drinking it; you get one shot and you hope like hell it will work. You don't need to use a sleeve to test the primer. Just watch the compound gauge and see if it holds a vacuum.

Very nice. Glad the company is interested in bringing back a piece of their history. When I worked across the street from a large concrete company you could hear the drivers chipping out the drums on the week ends when they failed to get the drum clean during the work week. They also had a fair assortment of filled drums in the back lot that had been removed and replaced on the mixers.

Based on the pedals I'd say a "You have to be this tall to ride this ride" is probably in order. Or if it were me and my buds at that age one of us would do the pedals while the other steered. At least that way we wouldn't run over each other. Probably less dangerous than the mower parked in front of it.

Everyone has gone to the nylon type of air lines now. They are not expensive nor difficult to do. The only hang up might be getting some of the old fittings out to replace them with the new fittings that accept the hose.

Ken, Probably not still good, but I noticed an MH at the Midway scrap yard along 78 when I was coming home from Macungie.

My $.02 - Scrap value. Extensive body rust is just too expensive to deal with and unless it is a personal treasure or a very rare and/or desirable truck it is just not worth it.

I would not. The lines are pressurized by the pump to whatever pressure the pump is developing. A broken rubber line whipping around at 200 psi is not what you want.

You cannot open the master drain under pressure; there is an "O" ring that will blow out, but you need to make sure it is working so the best way is to blow air back through it. If water does not drain when you open it chances are it is plugged.