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But it will not allow you to "pick and choose" which post you want to read. The old software let you go to the thread and then go to the first unread entry in that post.

I posted about this issue on the original thread about the software upgrade. The "go to the new content" command is gone from this version for some reason. You can go to the last page and scroll down to the newest post, but the program does not seem to have the ability to take you directly to the newest post as the old version did. Just slower and more awkward than the old version.

Nothing on there seems to be the same as what I was used to using.. In the old format there was an ability to go directly to a point in any discussion where new content had been added after the first page was filled. Now I don't see any choice but to go to the last page and scroll down to the new content. Just slower and more awkward than the previous version. Having been involved in more than a few software "upgrades" at work I know how frustrating this can be. The vendor promises great things, then threatens to not support the existing product until they basically blackmail you into purchasing the new program. When you do you quickly find that it is less robust than the old product, but you are stuck with little choice but trying to make the best of a bad situation.

Where are you located in VA? Steelman runs a steel fabrication shop in Fredericksburg that would make pretty short work of either fabricating a replacement panel or repairing the existing panel.

Am I missing it or did the "go to the first unread topic" feature disappear?

Am I missing it or did the "go to the first unread topic" feature disappear?

I know Farmer 52 was looking for a map (Interior overhead) light for his. I think it was standard in the upgraded interiors. If you find one grab it, I'll pay you and work it out with Ken later.

Very nice work. I hope you will bring it to Macungie with the tractors on board for all of us to enjoy. I assume you fixed the priming issue you had so it will keep running. A quick fix i have used to keep reluctant DD's running long enough to prime is to squirt WD-40 into the intake. (don't use the water based stuff!)

Will there be a place to park the toter and trailer?

The DW and I went to Houston last week to attend the SPAAMFAA meet. There were a few interesting trucks that showed up: A pretty neat B model sedan cab There were at least three Type 45S there. This one had a small block Chevy in it. A Type 85LS 65' Midship Aerial A matched pair of CF's out of NJ A former FDNY rig And Houston's ALF Water Tower (This is what Mack copied to make the Aerialscope LOL)

Try JC Taylor.

It always helps to send the Museum the PN of what you are looking for. It does take a couple of weeks to get the drawings, but they are an absolute godsend if you have to make a missing part. I have used them to re-create the valve springs for my AB and a hose holder for the 52 among other items.

You shouldn't need a relay as the draw is not that high. Mine picks up voltage from the ignition switch through a control switch and then directly to the pump.

if you contact the Museum they will send you the original shop drawings of the part so you can make them.

This is the national SPAAMFAA meet and I understand it will include an opportunity to tour Gary Mahan's collection in addition to seeing lots of antique apparatus.

Make sure the switch that controls the new pump is tied to the ignition circuit so you cannot leave it on with the engine shut down. This should prevent you from filling the crankcase with gasoline if the carb float sticks. You may want to put a fuel pressure regulator on even though the pump you are using appears to have a low enough pressure. By "replace fuel lines" I assume you mean only the existing rubber lines?? I would not use rubber all the way from the tank to the engine as the pump will happily keep fuel flowing through a broken line until it finds an ignition source. If the existing lines are rusty replace them with a steel line (steel brake line works fine). You can place the pump almost anywhere in the lines, but if you put it near the tank it will act as a "lift" pump to deliver fuel more quickly after the truck has sat idle for awhile. (I assume the tank is in the rear near the back step) The downside is if a line leaks it will supply fuel to the leak; if it is mounted near the engine it will lose prime from a leak between it and the tank.

When I moved here from Mass. I discovered the VA is a very religious state when it comes to snow removal; "God put it there and he will take it away." is their motto. It hasn't changed in the 40 plus years we have been here.

The hardener is available at Tractor Supply. In lieu of the "expensive" frame paint try Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints. About half the cost of the other guys and it works real well. You can also buy gallon jugs of "Prep-Sol" at most paint suppliers to clean any surface you are painting. I use a spray bottle to apply it and then wipe it with a clean rag.

Is there a chart somewhere that shows the correlation between the the thicker viscosity of cold oil and the amount that leaks out from a DD when compared to starting it in warm weather?

And as Woody Allen said "I'm not afraid to die, I just don't want to be there when it happens."

ID tag is from an AB, not the E model it is.

"Damn, that bumper looked plenty strong to me."

And I recall seeing a couple of pictures of (probably) NJ water tankers being pulled by Super Liners.

Wow! The depth of knowledge here is just amazing. I'm guessing two trucks since the site identifies the previous assignments of some rigs.

Is that the one out of the museum in CA?