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The MC's and MR's are usually pretty reasonable. Keep an eye on the various government auction sites such as govdeals.com and public surplus online as these trucks still come up pretty often. In the fire truck collecting world the best trucks are generally those that are coming directly out of the fire house. Most of these are well cared for with minimal rust and/or mechanical issues. If you find a good clean truck don't be deterred by the distance. As I said earlier I wouldn't be afraid to drive it home as long as I had it checked over before I started the trip. Most apparatus was driven from the factory to the customer when it was new, so it is perfectly doable.

Very nice; headed to York or Macungie?

When I did my A model a couple years ago it worked out to about $300.00 per wheel for re-lined shoes, eight re-sleeved wheel cylinders, four new wheel cylinders, new hoses, and new seals. I thought that was pretty reasonable considering almost all the parts were NLA.

is it a CF? If so, they are very common and you will most likely find one closer to home if you wait awhile. If it is an R model it is probably worth going to look at. A top condition CF should bring anywhere from $3K to more than $5K. I don't think any of them will fetch $10K. If it is rusty I would stay away from it, but if you must have it don't pay more than scrap value. As with all fire trucks the condition of the truck and having it complete are the most important pricing considerations. For example a bell will cost you anywhere from $500.00 to $1000.00 to replace if it is missing. I have never heard of any particular mechanical issues with any Mack apparatus. They are known for their reliability and that is why so many remain in service today. I would not be afraid to drive it the 600 miles. It will be an uncomfortable ride, but it is perfectly feasible to do it. Plan on taking it to a truck shop to have the fluids changed, brakes inspected, etc. and then hit the road.

At least they could put them next to the buckets of "Prop Wash" so the idiot..er customer could find them both at the same time. I always have this image of two guys sitting in a bar after a long day of supporting the brewing industry who get into a discussion of how stupid people are. One says to the other "Hell, I bet I could even get someone to pay me a dollar for a bottle of water."

If he truly knows trucks, and the truck market, than Mack should fare well since he will most likely take them back to the market they once excelled in: heavy duty trucks. While I see more and more Western Stars filling this niche, I don't think any brand is so solidly entrenched that it cannot be supplanted. A good product with the appropriate marketing plan should be successful in becoming the dominant brand.

Will do.

Charlie, I'll send you an e-mail.

Ken, I had to do this for a series of plans when I was working. There are , or were, companies that specialize in moving microfiche film to a digitized format. I think your best bet would be to contact the state's archivist office or maybe the Library of Congress to ask what they do or what resources they are aware of.

Found this on ebay; no personal interest. No mileage listed, but I would be surprised if it were over 100K. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-TK-Chrome-/161669686666?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25a443a58a&item=161669686666

If you are going to replace and/or re-plate the rails I have a source for new rails that is quite affordable. Let us know what you need.

Nice save. I'm guessing the boss didn't offer any extra for all the time you spent babysitting his truck.

The very first SCBA training I ever had was at Meadowood. Spent quite a bit of time in the Fitzwilliam area as a teenager. J Hancock who is quite active on this site lives in the area as well. I'm sure he would be a great contact for you. Stamford, CT still has a Type 75A they bought new as a parade piece. Did they buy your truck new or did it come from DoD after the war? My A model is basically the same as an E model; I found the master cylinder on Amazon, the front wheel cylinders and all seals at find it parts.com, and I had to have the rear wheel cylinders re-sleeved at White Post Restorations. I had the linings re-lined at Automotive Manufacturers in Richmond, VA. Total cost including new lines was about $1200.00 doing the labor myself. I still have the PN's somewhere if you need them. One hint; when you bleed them start at the booster.

I am looking for a set of four AB hood latches in good condition for a restoration I am working on. Carl - 540-785-0555

Everybody may remember a couple of rigs they had at Macugie Very nice rigs.

Welcome aboard. The first thing you need to do is send the chassis number to the Mack Museum, along with a suitable donation, to get the history of your truck. They will send you any delivery pictures they have along with an owners manual and other delivery information. My guess is this is a "war baby" based on the delivery year, so you may want to check out Fire Trucks at War; http://firetrucks-atwar.com If you have not done so try to find out where the truck served and get as many in-service pictures as you can to help you with the restoration. Finally, join the local SPAAMFAA chapter and SPAAMFAA to meet fellow collectors who can help you out.

The DW plans on attending or we could take the toter so we could sleep it off in the parking lot.

I'll have my bicycles with me. Feel free to borrow one.

One of my first vehicles was a 1961 CJ5 equipped with a non-power angle Fisher plow. Made a lot of money and had a lot of fun with that little beast. My DW still talks about how she refused to ride any further with me while we were dating after I put it up on 2 wheels while four wheeling through a Cape Cod pine forest. After pumping gas at a local Jeep dealer while in high school, I started buying and fixing up old jeeps which also proved to be pretty lucrative. I made my own tow bar and pulled them home with the old man's car. Looking back I'm sure he didn't appreciate me taking over his garage to do it though. Try checking out the CL's from down south. Much less rust to deal with down here. And just like every "project" it is always cheaper to buy the best vehicle you can afford rather than fixing it yourself. If you find something in my neck of the woods I can check it out for you.

Exactly two months (well almost) to go until the show. I know a lot of the excitement has been directed to the ATHS show in York this year, but for my money the show that ATCA puts on in Macungie every year is still the best show I get to. I'll be there with the 52 Type 75A and the new (for me) toter. Looking forward to seeing all those neat trucks again and having a good time with the other attendees.

Very nice; I know the boss is very happy to finally get it back. Look forward to seeing it in York.

Nice save! The good news is, If (or when) you get the urge to fix the Scout or CJ you can buy the entire truck in parts from various after market suppliers. Check the CJ for marks to see if it is a civilian version or an original military rig. There is a huge market for both of these trucks, even in their present condition.

All good tips, but nothing beats being able to keep the truck (or classic car) in a conditioned space. Besides, it is so nice to be able to work on them in a heated garage on a cold winter's day.

I would be leery of putting too much down pressure on the pistons out of concern that I might break the rings or punch a hole in the piston. Worst case scenario is the piston and rod are in a straight line and you are trying to push the crank out of the block. Be careful if you are going to try to push the non-stuck pistons out of the top of the block as well. If there is a lot of wear a ridge can develop in the cylinder bore at the top of the stroke that can break a ring or even jam the piston. You can use a ridge cutter to remove it, providing you can find one large enough for this engine.