fxfymn

You need to send the chassis number to the Mack Museum along with a suitable donation. They will send you any delivery pics they have on file as well as the operator's manual and where the rig was delivered to. Ask them for the "drawing release" as well. This will show what equipment was shipped with the rig. It takes awhile, but it is well worth the wait.

Sorry to hear your Dad is hospitalized, but glad the docs were able to put him on the road to recovery. Hang in there!

That corn binder would make a great project for an IH guy to pull a flat bed with his other treasures. You don't see too many with the integrated sleeper.

Ken needs to be on this like a hobo on a ham sandwich!

I think it easier to make your own harness (or buy one) than it is to do each wire. Carefully tag each wire terminal, remove the existing harness in one piece, then using the schematic to get the factory color code for each wire order the wire, terminals and conduit you will need to replicate the existing harness. Start with the longest wire and cut it to length plus a foot or two. Solder on the terminal on one end, I prefer to do the dash first, lay the wire out and go to the next shortest, etc. Tape the bundle up every couple of feet to keep it organized and slide the conduit on. Keep in mind that you will have wires leaving the loom at various places. You can use a pull string to fish these out of the conduit (my preference) or you can completely cut the conduit and tape it at every junction. I use Brillman http://brillman.com/store/ , but there are several vendors out there. You will need to decide if you want to go with cloth covered wire like the original or use plastic wire that is less expensive. Chances are you will pull a lot of wire out of it that does nothing. Over the years things get added/deleted and new wires get run to "fix" a problem with an existing circuit. When I did my 52 I removed a five gallon bucket worth of wire and everything still worked!

One wire for turn/brakes was the way it was done before electronics and several separate bulbs for turn, brakes, markers were required. Kind of a fail safe since the turn signal will not blink if the brake light bulb burns out. If you look on the trailer plug it should have the standard color code cast into it. If not, there should be a schematic in the box. Even if your rig is wired differently you should convert it to the standard scheme so the tractor can be hooked to any trailer. Here are a couple of sites that lay it out: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx http://www.pjtrailers.com/plugs.cfm

I ordered seals through Rock Auto once I had the PN. When it comes to mechanical items you can almost always locate items on the net if you have a vendor's PN. Keep everything you remove and check it carefully for a PN, search the PN and you will most likely come up with a source. Even Amazon has parts for the old dogs! A big part of re-doing a rig is being organized. Make a place to store all of the old parts permanently, because you never know when you might need to check them for a PN or have one re-furbed in the future when a new part becomes NLA. I keep a bag with any hard to find items I am trying to match in it that I carry to flea markets so I can match them up. Every axe holder, bell mount, etc. are unique and you really want to find the "right" one that matches the existing holes. The badges Cal sells are not engraved, just flat printed. Your choice.

You can find the headlight pieces at www.otbgear.com in California. they have a website and are very knowledgable and friendly That's who I used for my replacement lights. Nice lights and very close to original.

I guess the government required warning about the dangers of lead is on the other side of the hammer you cast.

Welcome aboard. Neat old iron you've got there.

The "125" should be a small shield shaped badge that goes just below the Mack script on the vertical center piece of the radiator shell. They are basically impossible to find, but it should be fairly easy for a jeweler/engraver to make a replacement. I have an original headlight bucket with the marker light you need. Check the bottom of the head lights to see if they still have the "twist and push in" type of connectors that were stock to see if the headlights are original or replacements. If they are replacements the best route will be to find the vendors name on the light to track down the marker light. I also have the trim ring, but it will need to be plated.

Vinny, Call Pauls. they will give you an estimate over the phone. Just be sitting down when they do.

Definitely an E ticket ride, but the price of admission is high! Glad the driver proved Darwin wrong.

You cannot do it to a pot metal piece like the emblem, but you will save quite a bit of the cost of a re-plating if you buff the piece out yourself before you get it plated. A significant part of the cost of plating work is polishing the piece prior to plating. It is not unusual for shops to charge $50.00 per hour or more to buff out parts. If you DYI you need to get it completely scratch free as any defects will show through the plating. Depending on what it is, and how badly it is pitted, I have started with 120 grit paper and worked all the way up to a fine polish grit on the buffing wheel. The better the buff job, the better the plating will look.

Vin, I use Hanlon's in Richmond for my "everyday, industrial" type stuff. Good work, good prices, but not always show quality. http://hanlonplating.com/index.php I use Paul's Chrome Plating in Evans City, PA near Pittsburgh for my show quality stuff and to have any "pot metal" items re-furbished and plated. Top quality and you pay for what you get. http://www.paulschrome.com/

Welcome aboard! Very nice truck. It looks like the right headlight has been replaced. There is a builder in CA that makes a pretty close replacement if you are looking to go back to the original look. http://www.otbgear.com/Default.aspx

Sorry to hear about your friend. Sometimes life sucks. As it has been said many times; life is short, enjoy the time God graced you with. And don't tempt fate by not using the right tools when you are working under a rig.

BULL....; I'm sure the gent who Paul Romano represented wanted the rig sold at a really fair price so a collector would get it, not a scrapper. Not much you can do about it though once it's sold all is fair.

Try contacting Hale directly. Also Mack will send you the pump operator's manual with the other info about your truck. You can also PM 1958 FWD; I believe his Dad is a retired Hale employee, so he may be able to help you out.

Where are you located? Believe it or not I have a friend that is doing almost the exact same project. He is taking a 600 series ALF like yours and making it a hauler for his wife's Nash Metropolitan chiefs car. He is putting in a Ford 360 with a C6 and adding A/C, PS, etc. to make it a real cruiser. Pm me if you want to get his e-mail if you want to exchange ideas, issues, problems, etc.

Nice pictures. Where is the show held? Like the world's ugliest Dodges? Here you go Ken;

Pick up a copy of "Mack Fire Trucks: 1911-2005 (An Illustrated History)" by Harvey Eckart for a definitive run down of how Mack did each series of fire apparatus they built. While they generally use a higher number for a more powerful engine and bigger pump, it is not an absolute. A B85 is a 707 gas with a 750 gpm pump, a B21 is a 1250 pump with a Hall-Scott engine. They also used 3 numbers on some series such as the 505A that was equipped with a 500 gpm pump and the ENF510A OHV gas engine. A 45A was a 500 gpm pump and a flat head gas engine. Some of the apparatus was built in very limited numbers. For example, my 75A, 750 gpm, ENF510A, was one of only 38 built, so it is really hard to know and understand what each number means with so many different configurations that Mack offered without a written reference.

That foam is what killed 100 people in the RI night club fire. Talk about a rolling death trap.

Nice trucks that you almost never see on the east coast. Someone posted earlier that Hendrickson was building fire apparatus. That is partially correct; they were a big player in the fire apparatus chassis business, but as far as I know they never built the entire truck.

Welcome back; glad you are doing well enough to be able to put up with the characters here.