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Love the true open cab look. If I had room that would be headed south.

Try contacting the Mack Museum to see if they have had an inquiry about the truck. Having the CN is a big plus.

Looking great! Glad to see another generation learning how to do this stuff. Gives me faith in the future.

It is at Aran Trading in Salisbury, MA. Nice guy, but not exactly a computer whizz. Your best bet is to call him on the phone.

Super nice truck; glad it went to a collector who won't cut it up. Govdeals.com?? Is it a Salisbury?

As a friend of mine, who owns somewhere north of 20 rigs, says "You can't save 'em all." But oh how I wish I had room for about 10 more rigs, a wife that doesn't know she could divorce me, and the money to bring all the neat rigs I see for sale home.

Lots of the old time loggers still use the old low boys that end load around here. Folks 'round here don't have that "northern money" to buy new; they have to wait for the DY's to get tired of them before they end up with them.

I'd hate to see it cut up, but Mike Yarnall has an A40 fire truck that he was trying to sell. Don't know if he still has it. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/user/7810-yarnall/

The picture is what a B model uses. I have also seen the "half-moon" style on L models that are flatter. They are pretty rare and I think that is why you see the B model style on some trucks, like mine, that were not factory equipped with them.

Newton had a bunch of B models back when Capt. Marvel was still a Lieutenant. There was a time in the Boston area that Mack and Maxim pretty much ruled the roost.

That is why going to shows and joining antique truck groups is so helpful. You are right, all the answers aren't in the books. (Like knowing exactly what happened to Newton's open cab CF) I always thought Newton had some of the cleanest, best looking Macks in the Boston area.

The side cover torque will depend on what you are using to seal them. If you go with modern sealants, i.e. silicone, then I would torque very lightly (10-20 ft/lbs)and then check for leaks. Re-tighten if it leaks. If you stick with old school tech than you will have to tighten them more to start with. I would use modern sealants in addition to the gaskets.

Was the town near Boston Newton? They had an open cab CF, but put a roof on it back in the 70's. Continental Fire Apparatus in Hopkinton did it by placing an F model tractor roof on it. Harvey's book "Mack Fire Apparatus 1911-2005" contains all of the data you are looking for. http://www.amazon.com/dp/1583881573

Great pics. Did you happen to get any of the B model fire truck parked next to the yellow A-Car?

Apply 12V at the junction point under the hood to the turn signal wire. If the bulb lights it is somewhere before the junction; if it doesn't make a long test lead to check for continuity from the bulb to the junction; no continuity = broken wire; continuity = bad ground at light. My bet is the switch itself.

Is this the first fire truck you have restored? Not trying to be presumptive that you cannot do the job, but if it is, don't be too quick to tear everything apart until you are sure you have the funds to finish it. We have all seen too many rigs that get torn down only for the owners to discover that they cannot afford to finish it. Even a quick re-paint will set you back well over $5-15K. A total restoration can be in the $100K range very quickly, with a re-furb coming in at $30 to $50K. I don't want to discourage you, quite the opposite, I hope you can bring it back. But it is an absolute maxim in the antique vehicle world that it will always be cheaper to pay more for a well done or preserved rig in the beginning than it will be to do it yourself. If this one is missing parts you may be money ahead to look for a better rig to start with and use the current one for parts. L models are pretty common and not worth a lot even when fully restored.

I'm pretty sure that is the L model from Radford, VA that sold for $3000.00 last year on CL or E-Bay. I communicated with the owner about buying it, but even at $3K it was overpriced for the condition. It sat out for years, had a landslide fall against one side, and needs a lot of parts.

Not trying to be a smarta.., but you have put a fuel pressure gauge on the system haven't you? Generally, that is one of the first steps in trying to diagnose fuel delivery issues. Not familiar with this system, but if there are check valves the system should hold pressure on the gauge when it is shut off. Also, use WD-40 to run the engine, not ether. The WD-40 simulates diesel fuel and will not harm the engine like ether might. Just spray it into the air intake.

You never know. I don't think he'll sell anytime soon, but never say never.

Southampton, NY's E Model and carrier. The Best in Show winner; 1931 Buffalo he restored himself. A very unique GMC fire patrol wagon A very clean 707 in a 1949 LS85

And here they are:

Very nice!

Thanks, Mike. Same here. Memory is like other parts of the anatomy; short. I'll try to look for them this week.

Wow! Pretty good for a FF/Roofer. Want to do some more?

Welcome aboard. Check out the classified section for a pretty good handle on B model pricing. Like everything else price depends on condition, how rare they are, and what you are willing to pay. They go from $500.00 to well north of $50K. Just keep in mind that the better the condition you start with the less it will cost you in the end. i.e. $30k for a well restored truck is a bargain compared to doing it yourself even though most folks here would consider that to be overpriced.