fxfymn

Do you need a gasket for the screw on cap? If so, most of the original ones came with a cork ring. The "snap" type that close with a wire bail use a rubber gasket.

As I recall what they did was intentionally seize a several bolts into a piece of steel by immersing it in salt water and letting it rust in place. They than immersed the bolts in various products such as PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40, etc. along with the acetone/tranny fluid mix. Then they measured the torque it took to remove the bolts. The hands down winner was the home brew of acetone/tranny fluid.

A friend is trying to separate the tractor from the trailer of his 1954 Maxim aerial. If anyone has done this we could use some advice on what to look out for. Specifically, what is the best place to jack the trailer?

Most of the B models were delivered with 707 gas engines, but they also came with diesels and the smaller in-line Mack 6 cylinders. Any of them would be a good option. If you want to modernize the rig I'd think about doing a Cummins 5.7 with a Mopar auto tranny.

As they said all reds are expensive. My 1972 IH has the Ford F1 on it and I really like it. Not overly bright, seems pretty fade resistant, and easy to find in all paint lines. I'm using Nason acrylic enamel in order to match the existing paint and patina. It is costing me about $55.00 per quart. My paint supplier recently told me that he could supply a two stage red system, (primer, reducer, paint, clear coat) for about $800.00 per gallon. DuPont I assume since that is their primary product line.

I saw a test of "rust busters" recently (cannot remember where) that compared the various rust penetrants against each other. The clear winner was a home made mix of transmission fluid and acetone or lacquer thinner. Anywhere from 50/50 all the way to 90% solvent and 10% oil worked best. If all else fails you might try this in the cylinders.

One other thought I had: You said the truck stopped running; I assume while you were driving it. Have you checked the timing chain/gear to make sure it didn't jump a tooth? Same as checking the timing; bring the #1 piston up to the timing mark and make sure the points are just opening and the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire in the cap. If not, I'd be suspicious of the timing chain.

Most times these things turn out to be something simple. Big shit tends to jump out at you, but we all tend to look for the worse thing first. Have you put a vacuum gauge on it? Even at cranking speeds it should pull a vacuum. Try spraying ether around the intake manifold gasket and/or the carb gasket to check for leaks. If it fires on the ether it is leaking and will not draw a vacuum to pull fuel through the carb. Not to be offensive, but you are trying this without the air filter on aren't you? Are you sure you used the correct gasket when you re-mounted the carb? Is it oriented correctly? Did the distributor come loose and ball up the timing? Bring #1 up to TDC and check to see if the points are just opening. Have tried turning the truck upside down so the carb will be a downdraft? If you do let us know how it works out. LOL.

I leave the 52 parked on the show grounds all week end without any problems. I have even left my camera bag out by mistake and it didn't walk. Bring the truck; you won't be sorry.

And if you are like me you won't remember either.

Any chance you bought fuel just before it quit? Or you ran the fuel low? Either way you may have gotten water in the fuel or the fuel may have "phased out" meaning the alcohol dropped out of the gasoline due to being overloaded with water. I would try using a small fuel tank connected directly to the fuel pump that has fresh fuel in it.

Lot of work and it looks great. Make sure you write the paint number inside the glove box door so future owners will have a shot at matching it. I have bought a couple of re-painted rigs that were a real PIA because the painter didn't have the forethought to do that.

Another avenue I have used is Amazon. Try running the PN on Amazon and see what you get. I found the MC for the Mack and my 72 IH there at a real good price.

Randy, If you cannot find the kits any shop that re-sleeves brake cylinders can re-sleeve the slave or master cylinder. I use White Post Restorations in White Post , VA to do mine. Usually runs around $60.00 and comes with a lifetime warranty. http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html Maybe it's time to learn how to drive without using the clutch like a real trucker! Carl

Who built those for you? Very neat truck.

As Superdog said they are the L series fire chassis, but they are pretty unique. According to Harvey Eckart's book out of the 1453 L series fire trucks that were delivered only 80 were the LS21 series. Most had the Hall-Scott motors, but they also used the Hercules HXE 935ci to power pumps ranging in size from 1250 gpm to 2000 gpm.

As the old saying goes "They are identical twins from different mothers." Unless you really know Mack trucks you cannot tell the difference between them by looking at them, but they are totally different. Basically, the A models are smaller versions of the L series that do not share any sheet metal and not a lot of mechanical parts. They produced A model fire apparatus until 1956, despite ceasing production of the other products in 1954.

I don't know for sure, but I think it does. Are you looking for Hall-Scott parts? He has had the truck on E-Bay as a parts truck, so I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to part it out himself. Send me a PM and I'll send you his e-mail so you two can work it out.

Not for those who can just write a check. I'm sure Matt Pfahl would love to get his hands on this if someone would pay him to do it.

I have never had a real problem finding items for my A model. Mechanically I have found all the parts I needed to completely re-do the brakes and rebuild the rear end and transfer case. Body parts: I used a set of aftermarket headlights that are basically identical to the originals and the aforementioned Restoration Specialties had the hood lacing, fender welt, and hood corners I needed. As long as the basic sheet metal is sound you shouldn't have any problem locating any small items you need.

If you go with an antique vehicle insurer they will most likely allow you to get "stated value" insurance for your truck as long as your valuation is reasonable to the underwriter. Both of my rigs are insured through JC Taylor and are insured for what I told them I believed to be fair market value. Call JC Taylor and ask them. I have found that they have always been easy to deal with.

I know where there is an LS21 available for parts if anyone bites on this one. LA is well known in fire buff circles for their "HU" or Heavy Utility units. Generally they are very heavy duty wreckers that are used for extrications as well as towing of FD units. They have had several very unique rigs ove rthe years including a custom Crown Fire Coach rig equipped with a wrecker body. My guess is this is a shop built unit made out of one of the LS21 pumpers. Most likely a "one off" and certainly well worth restoring if you have the deep pockets to do it.

Hard to start because it turns over too slowly; low battery, dirty connections. Turns fast enough, but cranks a long tiome before starting: fuel leak that keeps the engine from priming.

Like I said earlier in the post the "might as well since I'm this far" keeps going and going and going until you have everything off, replaced, repaired or rebuilt. You will never regret doing more when it's done, but it really drags the project out. Look at it this way: If you don't do something you want to because of time, money, etc. every time you look at the rig when you are done that is all you will see, even if the rest of us never notice. It will bug you until you go back and redo it at greater expense, time, etc. than if you had just done it the first time. No one ever regretted doing something right.

Rolling in on Thursday and leaving on Sunday. Look for the 52 in the fire truck area and stop by to say hello.