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No, but let us know how it works out. Of all of the things I do when I'm re-doing a rig sandblasting is the absolute least favorite. I'm just too cheap to pay someone to do it.

Re-wiring is not all that difficult, especially if you have the manual from the museum with the wiring schematic. I always solder the ends and cover them with shrink as well. HF sells an assortment of wire ends and heat shrink for a pretty low price. If you want to use the original asphalt loom you can buy it at Brillman Co. among others. When I started doing my 52 75A I removed a five gallon pail worth of old wire and everything still worked! If you are concerned about the metal's gauge, use a caliper to measure it and check it against the gauge thickness chart that almost any metal supplier has on-line. I would use 16 at the least just to make it easier to weld without burn through.

Thanks Mike. That is a beautiful L model. If I had the room and the desire for a divorce I'd be a player on that one. To post a link all you need to do is copy the address from the header bar and paste it into the message.

Where is the link? I cannot find it on E-Bay.

Oil based WD-40 sprayed into the air intake will act like a fuel to get it running, without the potential harm of ether. The main difference between a gasser and a diesel is the diesel must be primed for it to run. Priming means that you need to have fuel ready to deliver at the injectors, not air. If the engine has sat for a long time there is a good chance that you will need to prime it with fresh fuel to get it to start. I'm not familiar with the procedure for this engine, but I'm sure someone will post it. However, if at all possible make sure you pre-fill the fuel filters before you install them. I have used the WD-40 trick to prime a reluctant engine by running it on WD-40 until the fuel system picks up the fuel and gets it to the injectors. In addition to the other tips have a fire extinguisher nearby and something you can choke off the air supply with if it runs away. This can be as simple as a rag, just make sure it can't be totally sucked up into the air intake. This may be a 24 volt starter, so make sure you are jumping it with the proper voltage if that is the plan. Based on the removed axle shafts it's my bet is it was towed to it's final resting place, so you probably need to find out why. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Call the SPCA; some of these dogs have been severely abused! What a shame that someone buys a nice truck and lets it sit outside to rust away, like the one from New Haven.

A great place to get something to eat that is a little bit different is at the farmer's market located at the State Fairgrounds in downtown Allentown. Lots of booths and small counters to get a good meal at a good price.

If you have not sand blasted one before be prepared for the mess that you will face when you are done. The media gets into everything and everywhere. Plan on removing the brake drums and to spend a lot of time blasting all the little crevices and holes to get the media out before you paint. If you don't the pressure from the paint gun has a nasty habit of launching media dust into the fresh paint when you least expect it.

The question usually comes up about hotels. The easiest place to stay is one of the hotels near the intersection of 100 and I-78, Exit 49-A/B. They carry Fogelsville and Allentown addresses. I thought they were hydraulic sandwiches.

I may bring this instead of the Mack, but I need to get my ass in gear to get it done! I did get the engine back in it and the clip back on before I left for FL. I hope to get smoke from it when I get back. Typical early 70's rig; full of rust. The hood hinge mount on one fender liner was almost completely gone.

On my way to the winter meet in Jacksonville, FL right now. I'll have something there this summer.

And of course no one blamed the management that gave them the contracts. Things like having a large inventory of parts and slow assembly times that drove up the borrowing cost were also a factor. That's one reason why new plants were so much more profitable with just in time parts delivery and extensive subcontracting.

Mack, like most of the larger truck manufacturer's, became a victim of the rampant inflation and very high interest rates brought on by the oil embargo of the 70's. As far as I know Paccar was the only big builder that survived, with Mack being bought out by foreign investors, IH going bankrupt, and the big 3 bowing out of the business. Basically the legacy builders had existing high labor and manufacturing costs from having outdated plants and processes. Volvo came in and bought out the small names in an effort to get brand recognition and Damlier did the same. Using new plants in low cost labor markets they kicked ass price wise just when big box stores and deregulation were making OTR trucking very profitable. You think Mack tumbled? At one time IH was one of the 3 biggest corporations in the world.

VA DMV is generally pretty easy to deal with. All of the major branches have a person on staff who can deal with issues such as this, or you can go directly to Richmond. Call and ask them what the best course of action would be.

After a similar trip to St. Pete, FL to look at a "show winning" truck that was probably a 3 out of 10 I have learned to ask for photos with the current date tag on the pics before I burn up some diesel.

The E model van, or one just like it, sat for a number of years in Bealton, VA on the side of Rte. 17. It disappeared a few years ago, I assume to the scrapper.

I'm kind of surprised that the Mack marketing folks don't jump on this as an opportunity to demo their latest offerings to the attendees. It would be a great time to offer test rides on the track to potential buyers.

It was probably added after the truck was built. You may want to consider using a hidden circuit breaker somewhere in the circuit to maintain the authenticity. If you still want to retain the original holder I would make a "dummy" fuse and still use the circuit breaker.

Are you going to do any mechanical work to it while it's apart? Clutch, seals, gaskets, etc. I know that I got caught up in the "hey, I've gone this far I might as well do this" syndrome when I work on the trucks. Gets a little costly sometimes. Have you sand blasted one before?

As the replys said the dual ignition was for reliability. The real trick is to get both systems timed exactly the same. Not too big of an issue if they are both distributors, but a magneto/distributor combination can be more problematic. Because of the timing concerns the engines were generally started on "both" and run on "1" or "2" to prevent a mis-timed condition that can cause the piston to be burned. Assuming new plugs, points, etc. try running it on one or the other and see if it runs differently. If the idle speed increases on one or the other chances are the timing is slightly advanced on the fast runner. I try to remember to run mine on alternating ignitions each time I start it.

Barry; Well said; if this truck thing doesn't work out for you I see a future in politics or the law for you! When I went to college, back when Capt. Marvel was still a Lieutenant, we were taught that you could use any reference as long as you attributed it to the author or source. To me, if you leave the photographer's name and the web site attribute on the photo you are doing just that.

That fuse is probably for the radio, not the truck. You really don't need it, so any fuse that fits will work.

Welcome aboard. Nice truck, even if it is green! As Kermit said "It easy being green." Synthetics are great, but given the low miles you will probably put on the truck I'd save the money. Ask the Chief Engineer at the VFD who does their work. It may turn out that he can do your truck more cheaply than you can based on the volume of product they use. An oil analysis may save you the expense of doing anything right now. A search of the forum will turn up the "how" to get an analysis done.

It's interesting that most of the early COE's were just a raised version of an existing cab, but Mack chose to use mostly new sheet metal for their entry into the field. I especially like Ford's attempt to use the Bud (C cab) cab combined with what looks like the N cab to make a COE. Makes it pretty obvious that the bean counters had quite a bit of say in the design shop.

Very well said Barry. As the old saying goes: any publicity is good. If the pics were not posted here I would have never heard of Hanks pictures. I assume he makes his money from advertising or selling pictures. No visitors, no sales.