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I had the chance to see the Corbett's up close at their owner's place in N. Carolina. It was so tall I could not even reach the door handle to open the door.

If anyone needs to replace the battery in their rig NAPA has the size 31, and other heavy duty batteries, on sale. I paid $85.00 for a battery with a core returned today, about $50.00 cheaper than I could find it elsewhere. Normally I wouldn't put a battery in the truck this time of year when I never run it, but it was 72 degrees here today, (after not getting above 20 last Friday) so I wanted to pull it out to wash it. I knew the battery was weak, but it was totally dead when I went to start it, so I decided now is the time. Finding it on sale was sweet!

Check on "Chassis Saver" paint out of NY. I'm using it on the 72 IH I'm doing now. Cost me $104.00 for a gallon with the reducer on EBay. http://magnetpaints.com/default.asp

Hate to sound like a broken record, but; PLEASE, if you have a shop at least put fire detection equipment in it. I have never spoken to a fire victim who did not wish they had spent the money to equip their building with an alarm system. Fire sprinklers would be great, but they are generally impractical for the average person. An alarm and detection system costs around $1000.00 to install, about 20 bucks a month to monitor, and you get a burglar alarm as part of the install. Everyone seems to worry about a break in, but fire is the ultimate thief. When someone robs you they may take some valuable items, but most everything will be left including the building. When fire strikes you lose everything.

The article was good, but it really focused on the trailer as much or more than it did on the truck.

Got my registration in the mail last week and I have already mailed it back. I hope everyone will get their registration in early to make it easier on the staff. If you have not had the opportunity to attend I think this is the best truck show in the country. Last year over 600 trucks were on the show grounds and that wasn't even the best part of the show. What's better than getting to see over 600 trucks: getting to talk trucks with all of the interesting folks you will meet there! Go to http://www.antiquetruckclubofamerica.org/ for information and registration.

Another option would be to weld a piece of 1/2" angle with the "v" up to reinforce the panel on the underside. Not original, but it would work and would not be visible. Make sure you seal up whatever you do with "Chassis Saver" or "Por 15" to keep it from coming back.

Hate to say it, but this sounds like it is someone you know who has been in the shop and knew what you had there. Put the word out to the local speed shops and see if anyone comes looking for parts to complete the motors. Keep a troll on CL as well. Hope you get 'em.

My bet it was a fire truck based on the red light and chrome bumper, but the tank that is on it now was probably added by the contractor. That tank would never be roadworthy enough for FD use.

I'd love to see what it looked like when it was a fire truck. Any pictures anyone?

One other distinctive feature of the Mass. dumps is the use of the air powered lift piston for the snow plow. I haven't seen that in other parts of the country.

Check the ODHFS web site. Someone is advertising for just such a truck.

Have you tried our new sponsor Red Smith?

The chassis number should be stamped into the frame rail just forward of the right front wheel. Your truck wouldn't be the first that had the chassis number tag stolen at some point. In this case I suspect the junk yard took the easy way out and just put a tag from another truck on it to secure a title.

Probably Andy Lietner. Great collector and a very nice guy.

Yeah, tell me about it. I have a 1972 IH that I sand blasted last week sitting in the shop just waiting to rust with all of the moisture in the air. Went from 30 something to 60 something so all the water is condensing on anything that is cold, like a sand blasted fire truck!

If you haven't done so yet, the first thing you need to do is write the Mack Museum with the chassis numbers for both trucks to get their build sheets. That will tell you what each truck has in common as far as components. They will supply you with a manual for each as well as any history they have of the truck's delivery. The service is free, but a suitable donation to the museum is expected. (at least by the members here!)

Looking for the crank style handle that operates the tank to pump valve. Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send you a picture of what I'm looking for.

It really depends on the seller's definition of a restoration. A true restoration means every nut is turned and every component in restored back to factory fresh specifications. Very few folks do a true restoration, most do a re-furbishment. Any components that are in need of repair are fixed, the unit gets body work, fresh paint, and the seats get done, etc. The truck is a bargain if it had a true restoration. You cannot do that for less than $100K. Ask for pictures of the restoration and a copy of all of the receipts for the completed work. If it was re-furbed, which is my bet, than the buyer needs to decide if the work that was done is worth the price. One of the absolutes in the old car/truck biz is that the better the unit you start with the less it will cost in the end. In other words you will never get out of a rig what you put into it, so if you can buy a rig in top condition it will always be less expensive than buying a rig that you put the money into re-doing. Finally, no one makes money in this hobby except the folks who get paid for doing the restoration work. I view this the same as owning a boat or any other toy. Buy it, enjoy it, and realize that you may never see the money you spent on it again.

There are companies that will take any paint and put into a spray can for you. Not cheap, but it is convenient. Another alternative is to use disposable cups for your spray gun. You still need to clean the gun, but the leftover paint can be stored in the cup, so you can retain a small amount for touch up or small parts.

Bryan, Any pictures of Wellesley Trucking's (MA) Macks from the late sixties? Two B-81's, two LJ's, and a B-75. Black with a lot of pinstripng and chrome.

The one thing that never lasts on any fire truck is the upholstery, so it's pretty tough to figure out what is original. Most seats get re-done pretty regularly from the constant in and out and the fire gear.

I met Rich Kurzontkowski at the Trucktoberfest where he had the AC and his R model there. He told me he put the rock body on the LJ so the body on the R wouldn't get beat up hauling rip-rap. I'm pretty sure he still works it on occasion.

Since I grew up in the Boston area there are lots of memories here. I once worked for a company that plowed snow with the low boy tractors using the trailer's goose neck as a counter weight like the Perini truck. I grew up near the Perini yard in Framingham and I vaguely remember the B81 being on the lot there. Rosenfeld had quite a fleet of Autocars, Macks, and chain drive Sterling mixers. I'd love to see a picture of the Sterlings if anyone has one. Nothing like the Boston area paint and chrome on the dumps and low boys.

A trickle charger is not the same as the battery maintainer. The electronics in the maintainer measure the battery and have a means to desulfate the batteries as well. I assume you checked all of the connections for corrosion and tightness. A quick seat of the pants check is to turn the headlights on and see how long they stay bright. If they dim in a minute or two the batteries are not holding the charge, even though they may measure a high enough voltage with a meter. The last quick check is to jump it. If it starts off of another battery than you need to replace the existing batteries. When you replace the batteries make sure they are securly fastened down. One of the leading causes of battery failure is allowing them to bounce around.