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Thinking of selling any of it? I'm looking for a NOS B model 1/2 bulldog and the Mack side hood script.

I second that and I hope everyone who attends is classy enough to bring a donation check.

I think you are heading down the right track by trying to digitize the info so we can all share in lieu of it ending up on one person's book shelf. You may need to solve some copyright issues, but it would be great to make out of print info available to all of us. I have been involved in a large scale digitizing project at work. It is not that big of a deal if you can find a reliable contractor to do the work for you. My vendor charged a per piece price based on the total amount we expected to digitize. (Ours was well over 100,000 documents). I would advise you to look around your area to see what is available as opposed to trying to do the work yourself. Having said that I would be more than willing to pay for a digitized copy of anything to do with the 510 engine or A model fire apparatus. If you don't digitize it I'd still be interested.

Ken, I am staying at Hawthorn Suites 7720 main St. Fogelsville, PA. It is off I-78 at exit 49B. Give me a shout at carlmaurice@comcast.net if you need a ride. Carl

Filling the crankcase with fuel happens when the fuel pump keeps running if the carb float sticks open. The fuel fills the intake manifold until it finds an open intake valve that allows the fuel to run into the crankcase. Not all that uncommon; it usually liquid locks the engine as well so the starter won't spin the engine. Wiring the pump through the ignition is the right way to do it. I also have a seperate switch to make sure the pump is off if I need to have the ignition on while I am doing some other work. I once acquired an almost brand new riding mower that did the same thing. The owner gave it to me because he assumed it was blown up when the oil started blowing everywhere while it was running. The carb had allowed fuel to fill the crank that displaced the oil causing it to blow oil out the breather. New carb gaskets and all was well. When I offered it back he told me to keep it and make sure his wife never found out.

Save it and if it is more than you want to tackle you can probably re-sell it for what you have in it once it is out in plain sight and checked out so folks know what to expect. For example just letting folks know the engine is not locked up will add $500.00 or more to the value. If you restore cars you probably already know this, but you will always be financially ahead to buy something in the very best condition you can find. You never get out of them what you put into them, so letting someone else spend the money is the least costly way to go. If you are buying it because you enjoy doing the work then it is different, but it will still cost more in the long run than buying a re-done rig.

Your post is not entirely clear; does it run on the portable tank, but not on the factory tank? If so, the most obvious place to look is inside the factory tank. It is very common to have the pick up blocked by rust or other debris. Have you tried blowing air back through the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel pump? Check for a non-factory installed fuel filter that is blocked as well.

Ken, If you need a ride I can handle that. I'm on the road right now, so I can't access my information to find where I booked my hotel. I'll send you a message on Monday or Tuesday when I get home so we can hook up. Carl

Found this on GovDeals.com http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=24&acctid=4935 It would be a pretty unique collectible for someone who was into both ALF and Macks. My bet is it is the only ALF cabbed aerialscope in existence.

Louie, Cal Little is who I would recommend. He has someone that is an absolute magician with cast iron. A friend took a manifold from a 25 AB to him that was in pieces; it came back looking factory fresh in a couple of months. Your best bet with Cal is to go there personally. He may be at the Trucktoberfest, and if not it is not too far from Allentown to his place.

What model engine is it? The model should be on the front right part of the block. Try posting pictures of the engine as well. Write to the Mack Museum with the chassis number and they will send you a manual with the plug numbers, carb. model used, etc. It is free, but a suitable donation is appropriate to keep this valuable resource around.

Are you a member of either ATHS or ATCA; both antique truck clubs. They both publish magazines which can be a good source for parts. Only one C model made it to the ATHS national show this year out of the 1,000 trucks that were showed. That should give you an idea of how rare this truck is. If you do a search on C models in this forum you will find other owners of C models that you can PM for information about th re-habs of their trucks. Good luck and welcome to the best place to find information about Macks on the web.

A couple of days with a pressure washer and some degreasing fluid would be time well spent before you get into the engine. Having it clean makes it so much easier to get things done.

I am not a painter by any stretch of the imagination, but I always sand and buff mine out the next day. If it is really rough I start out with 1000 grit wet/dry using a spray bottle of water with a couple of drops of detergent mixed in it to keep the surface wet. I than go to 2000 grit with water after throughly cleaning the surface to remove any 1000 grit. After sanding I use white compound followed by paint cleaner, polish, and finally wax all applied with an air powered buffer using a new pad with each change of compound. I like the air powered buffer since it is slow and minimizes the chance of burning the paint. I use a HF cheapy and buy several pads to keep changing them as they wear. Make sure you clean between each grit and as you sand you might feel a larger piece of grit in the paper. If you do, stop to clean or replace the paper. If you enter "wet sanding new paint" in any search engine it will turn up a lot of how-to's; I liked this one: http://carpaint.blog...f-your-car.html Good luck; it looks great!

Have you wet sanded it yet? If not you can use 2000 grit and it will take the dust "lumps" and any orange peel right out. Follow up with a compound and it will shine like it does now.

All the smaller Landolls I have looked at had pony motors. Crank up the engine and the hydraulics do everything else, including the winch. The ones I looked at were made for one ton to 2 1/2 ton trucks. Deck about 24 foot long and used for moving farm equipment by dealers. I'm not even sure they make them anymore.

If you cannot get to the nuts check to make sure they are not "speed" nuts that are welded to the frame. If they are not my first move would be to use an impact gun to tightern the bolts in an effort to break them off. My experience is it is easier to break them off than it is to try to get them out if they are rusty or hard to get to. Tightening as opposed to loosening works far quicker to just break them off. You can buy speed nuts or weld nuts to the frame to replace the nuts if you cannot reach them to hold them when the tank is replaced.

Sorry to hear about your uncle, but what a gift he gave you and what a return he got for it. Nothing like passing on an interest and watching it grow while you have the chance to work together. Outstanding gloss, did you use any additives in the paint such as catalysts? My work never looks half that good until I spend half a day wet sanding it.

One of the funniest radio transmissions I heard during my career was dispatch calling an engine to tell them they could go in service from the alarm bells call they were responding to at an old folks home; "Fairfax to E-29, you can go ready the smoke detectors were set off by the candles on a ninety year olds birthday cake." I'm hoping I can do that on my 90th.

Sorry we'll miss it this year. Too much to do and not enough days to do it. Have fun. See you at Trucktoberfest.

Me (barely) and I have had a lot rougher life! Thanks everyone. And oh yeah; I'm now on the government dole collecting social security which makes me a 47 percenter and welfare recipient. Life is good!

Don't know what you generally use the trailer for, but one of the smaller Landoll trailers would be sweet with that tractor. They turn up at a decent price every great once in a while. Like a dumbass I recently passed on one pulled by a 99 GMC for $14k.

If nothing else get the front fender marker lights off of the fire truck. They are scarce! The fire truck looks like an E model?? If you go back try to get pictures of as many ID plates as you can, especially of the fire truck just to make sure it's not something rare.

I have used Pauls and Royal Silver Manufacturing in Norfolk, VA for my show quality plating. For my "more industrial" type stuff I use Hanlon's in Richmond, VA. Pauls and Royal Silver do excellent work and they price accordingly. Hanlon's is not quite as high in quality, but their prices are much lower. I have found that if I polish the items before I deliver them to the plater I save quite a bit of the cost. Platers generally charge in the $50.00 per hour range to polish up the items they are plating, so the more you can do to get the items "plate" ready the less it will cost you. You will also find it is generally cheaper to buy new parts in lieu of getting the original plated unless you can do the work needed to make the item ready for plating. For example some pretty rough original hub caps were quoted at $250.00 each versus $125.00 each for new ones from Watts Mack. Stainless fasteners can be polished to look like chrome; they don't crack when tightened and are much cheaper. Whoever you use make sure you photograph each and every item alone and in a group. Send the pics along with an inventory to the plater so items are not misplaced at the platers.

Yep; I'm redoing a 72 IH 1310 right now and I'm going to run copper where a hose is used now. Too many sad stories of fuel hoses letting go that caused a fuel fed fire. After the show season is over I'm going to do the same to the 52.