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If you are planning on using rubber hoses make sure you get the newer high pressure hose made for fuel injected engines.. It will outlast the old stuff.

Louie, I assume they are cast iron??? If so they cannot be welded using ordinary methods and you will need to find someone who knows how to work on cast iron. If you cannot find someone locally to do the repairs let me know. I can hook you up with someone in PA that can do it.

Make sure you do not mix radial and bias ply. As to the snow type treads on the rear; they may make the ride a little less comfortable, but I cannot imagine you will drive it enough to notice.

Mike; You should have been at the Tr-States show. They had a whole case of lead additive for whatever donation you wanted to make.

I'm not sure if I'm coming up on Thursday or Friday. Mike: Check the PN on the filter. I went through this already; bought six filters from a knowledgable person who used that filter in his ENF510 that did not fit my ENF510. Mack use different filters on the same engine.

Not to "fuel" the lead-no-lead additive discussion, but the speaker at the annual SPAAMFAA meeting spoke about this. His position was that the additive did no good and wasn't needed. His background: Lubricant specialist for Ford and head of the fire museum in Ypslanti, MI that maintains over 60 antique fire trucks.

Yep; Sent my registration in today.

Try e-mailing the Museum to ask them for a clarification. They are extremely helpful. Don't try jury rigging anything. You might introduce a foreign substance into the engine you don't want there. Remember, filters were optional on many engines of that era. Modern oils and limited use should make the filter a non-issue. If it really bugs you run it for a thousand miles and send in an oil sample in for analysis. Are you going to make it to the Mack Trucktoberfest in Allentown on October 26 and 27?

Will do. I'd love to be there both days, but our annual retiree's picnic is on Saturday. Wish I could be in two places. Make sure you check out the 28 White Motor Car fire truck that will be there. Quite the restoration. There should also be a 31 Buffalo there on Saturday that was just finished. Beautiful! Check out the bell finial closely. Quite unique.

Congrats! Nothing like being able to drive it to make working on it seem worthwhile. They all have their own nature, but I found if pause for a couple of seconds with the clutch engaged in neutral while up shifting it goes in pretty smooth. Going down you need to let the road speed die down to the lower end of the gear range and accelerate pretty high with the clutch engaged in neutral. My gas gauge is also a "best" estimate. I try to keep track of the miles driven versus fuel bought and not rely on the gauge. Try Star Brite gas additive to treat the ethanol. Most fuel experts also reccomend that you only put as much fuel in it as you plan on using in the next 60 days due to phase seperation and the summer/winter formulation changes.

Not that you wouldn't enjoy operating the equipment, but if you have to pay transport and rental it might be quicker and cheaper just to have the job done. I cannot imagine any driveway taking a good operator more than 8 hours. Most rubber tired TLB's are less than $100.00 per hour in our area. Do the math before you commit.

Louie, Check the build sheet from the museum and find out what filter you have. Mack used different filters based on the customer's specs. I know someone who has six sock style filters, but even the sock styles differ from one build to the next, so without the Mack PN it is somewhat futile to keep looking. Try this site as well: http://www.filtermart.com/ I have never used this site, so I can't vouch for them. Carl

The Tri-State Antique Truck Show, Frederick Co. Fairgrounds near Winchester, Va will be held this week end. I'll be there with the 52 on Friday. Anyone else plan on being there?

Found it! Thanks.

If you go with a bigger tire it will increase the cool factor and the steering effort. I'd stick with the original. Split rims are pretty easy to work on. When it comes time to inflate them put a clamp type chuck on them, turn them upside down and turn the fill valve on from a remote location. As long as you were careful about getting the rings seated they are not a problem.

Have you tried to do a CarFax search?

I missed the question about the arms. Are you sure they are chrome and not polished stainless? I'm pretty sure they are stainless and can be polished out to look like new if they are not dented up. I use a cheapy bench polisher from Habor Freight and it works great. A little elbow grease and stainless will look like chrome. It is what I do to all of the stainless fasteners I use where chrome was used originally.

Nope, missed him picking on you. Did you see the nice Type 75A in the pictures though? And did you notice that three of the first place winners were from ODHFS in VA?

The Talleyville L model is the rarest of the rare; the only commercial L model fire chassis ever made into a fire truck by another maker. It is in Eckart's book and according to him some chicanary was involved to get the chassis. Any idea where it is now?

Finally, a little common sense! Now to start searching the net for the proper tags.

That's going to be a tough one. Every great once in a while items like that turn up at fire flea markets such as the Spring Melt. You also might try advertising on the SPAAMFAA site. Probably best to just suck it up and get them re-plated.

What did you use for paint for the undercarriage parts?

Dop you need a parts truck for your J-30? I know where there are two of them for sale. Neither is great, but they aren't all that terrible either.

Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. Do not use silicone based fluid. Find a clear hose that fits over the bleed nipple and stays there to make it easier to catch the fluid. Put the cover back on the MC after every re-fill or it will blow everywhere. Remember, brake fluid is a great paint remover. If it really has air in it it can be a long day trying to get it out. I used a gallon of fluid before I finally got the air out of mine. I had replaced all wheel cylinders, the master cylinder and most of the lines, so there was a lot of air to get out. One error in my previous reply; if you block the line you should not need to pump the pedal to develop pressure. If the line has no air the pedal will "lock" when you depress it without pumping and will not feel spongy or be able to be pushed to the floor. Good luck!

First step is to ensure the brake shoes are adjusted properly. Jack it up and adjust each wheel to ensure the shoes are just clearing the drums. That may be all that is needed. Always keep in mind the purpose of bleeding is to get the air out of the lines. Air will collect in the high points of the system, so that is why you bleed the upper wheel cylinders, the lower will "self" bleed through the upper wheel cylinders. Make sure you use a flare nut wrench or six point socket to loosen the bleeders to keep from rounding them off. If the bleeders are rusty spray them with a penatrating oil first and let them sit for a while before trying to loosen them. You will need to start at the master cylinder. Make sure it is full of fluid and make sure you keep it full during the bleeding process. Loosen the brake line as it leaves the MC, place a catch container under it, and have a helper slowly depress the pedal. If air bubbles come out, tighten the nut, have the helper release the pedal, and repeat until the air is bled out. If you are chasing air that was introduced into the system accidently it is helpful to remove the line going into the part at each location on the truck and block it off with a home made plug. Pump the MC and if it holds pressure the air is beyond the point you are at. If it doesn't hold you need to bleed the line before re-attaching it. Check for pressure, etc. Next go to the booster. There is a bleeder on the booster master cylinder; bleed it the same way as the master, except it is helpful to place a clear hose over the bleeder outlet to direct the fluid to the catch jar. You can watch for air bubbles in the clear hose. Next go to the furthest wheel from the MC, probably the right rear. Then bleed the upper wheel cylinder. Go to the left rear next, repeat, front right, repeat, front left, repeat, all the while making sure you do not let the MC run out of fluid. After a couple of attempts to bleed each point is helpful to pump the pedal with all bleeds closed to see if you have removed all of the air yet. If done correctly the pedal will not need to be pumped in order to develop pressure.