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Makes me really glad I live in the country where it's still OK to pollute so I don't need to submit the fleet to an emissions test.

Based just on the selling prices for the E's and the B's, which are quite similar, I would lean towards the B for an everyday working truck. Parts are much easier to find, they were more reliable, and the chances of finding a 6x6 with a diesel are much greater. If I were in your shoes I would set a budget and than find a rig to fit it, whether it was an E, B, or even a later model R or U. If I needed a working truck I would be more concerned about reliability than looking cool. To paraphrase the country song; You can fix ugly, but you can't afford unreliability.

If you really believe this crap I've got a bridge I need to sell. Another case of "if it appears on the internet it has to be true".

Sold for $2550.00. Pretty good buy.

That truck is a REO that was rebadged.

Not to be too obvious, but the sure sign of a loose rivet is a rust streak coming from the hole.

Don't know if its correct, but I was always told the DM stands for Dump/Mixer, so they were designed for heavy duty applications.

Kind of makes you wonder why Mack let it go in the first place.

1950 Model A20 Mack Truck - $70000 (Sharpsburg, MD) Date: 2011-12-03, 10:23AM EST Reply to: sale-pqhse-2733656330@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] This is Serial Number 1 for the 1950 Model A20 Mack Truck. This model was new and offered an experimental new gassoline engine (for that time.) The engine is Serial Number 3 and has been verified with the Mack Truck Museum of Allentown, PA to be the correct engine, as the first 2 were lab engines that were never placed into a truck. Historical Document copies from the Allentown Museum will accompany the vehicle to verify the authenticity of the vehicle. This vehicle has only ever been registered to ONE owner, and this is the original owner selling the vehicle. It has been painstakingly restored to as close to original condition as possible. The owner actually worked for Mack Truck Hagerstown, where this truck was used in service by Mack as a snow plow until it was sold to it's first and only ever titled owner. Asking price is $70,000 or best offer. Please call 301-432-2691 and ask to speak with Sonny. Serious Inquiries Only! Location: Sharpsburg, MD it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests PostingID: 2733656330

What engine and tranny is in the rig now?

The headlight connectors are very unique and I'd be surprised if you can find new replacements. I'd check with Cal Little, he is listed on the Mack Museum site, to see if he has any in his scrap yard. You didn't say what lights you are trying to repair with new contacts, but if they are the tail lights you can get replacement lights from an aftermarket Jeep parts house such as Kiaser Willys.com. The tail lights used by the late 40's CJ's and pick ups are the same lights Mack used.

That is one of the reasons I posted this. My fifth wheel camper has a rear kitchen design that really takes a beating on washboard interstates. Since I am rarely in a hurry to get anywhere I don't mind going out of the way to avoid a really rough stretch of road.

As long as the views expressed by the various members of the board don't affect the help that is offered to any member when they ask for it nothing posted here should have any negative effect. Besides, its always nice to know what the other side is thinking.

Gee, I thought that's what a wife is for.

I have been traveling back and forth to Charleston SC over the last few weeks using I-295 around Richmond, and extremely rough piece of interstate highway which got me to thinking; What is the roughest stretch of interstate highway in the country? To be fair I think we need to eliminate the Cross Bronx stretch of I-95 since this is so obvious a choice. My vote is I-10 across Miss. with the aforementioned I-295 a close second.

Thanksgiving is like going to Hooters; Come for the wings, stay for the breasts.

On each mirror in every fire house we had a sign that said "You R Looking at the Person Resonsible for Your Safety"

Since the subject of smoke detectors came up I want to stress the need to replace battery powered detectors at least every ten years. There are several case histories where the detectors went into alarm, but the audibility was so poor due to their age that they failed to alert the occupants. I had the misfortune to deal with a case where a family of five perished because of this. The code requirements that dictate detector location have also changed over the years. At one time one detector outside of the sleeping areas was considered adequate. Now the codes require one in each sleeping area as well as one in the access hall to the sleeping area. Battery powered smoke detectors are generally around 10 bucks. Pretty cheap compared to the consequences. And speaking of detection; what do you do in your shop or garage area to provide protection? One of the leading fire apparatus restorers had a devastating fire last year that gutted his shop with the loss of many irreplaceable relics. While I'm sympathetic to the man's loss I am also quite surprised that he would not have provided protection for such a valuable property. Money spent on heat detectors and an alarm system is well spent when you consider the value of your shop and its contents. .

You're missing the point; it's an English Bull Dog which makes it a pure bred. That's why it's so expensive!

There is a six inch minimum if you ever decide to do a four post lift. I used 4 inches of fiber reinforced on my floor and I have not had any substantial cracks. The key factor is in the base prep since concrete is only strong in compression with little or no strength in tension. In other words if any of the base settles and leaves a void cracking and settling of the pad is almost inevitable. Reinforcing is used to provide some tensile strength, but what you really want is to avoid having to rely on the reinforcement for crack prevention. It costs a couple of hundred bucks, but I would get a soil test done to make sure you do not have any shrink swell soil problems. If you do than you will need an engineered foundation. This costs more, but the result is a proper foundation that will do the job. Make sure the base is resting on undisturbed soil or have it properly compacted and tested to ensure the compaction was done correctly. Generally the codes allow the use of sand or crushed rock under the slab. Either will work, but I prefer crushed rock. (usually 57 or 68)Make sure the base layer fills the foundation completely and I always provide mechanical compaction as well. Yes; its belt and suspenders, but you only get one chance to get this right. I also prefer to use a poured foundation as opposed to a block foundation for the same reasons. A properly poured 8" wall will never move so your base will never move either. Due to an elevation difference I had to account for I used 200 tons of 68 under my slab. That's why I'm certain I will never have a cracking or settlement problem.

I have had three DMax's and I have been pleased with all of them. Like all products there are folks out there who will hate on them, but have never owned one themselves. (Paccar anyone?) I highly recommend them with a couple of caveats. The early 2004's would run hot in high ambient temps under a heavy load. It is related to the air intake and there are after market fixes for it if you run across a 2004 that's a great deal. Starting in 2005 or 6 they came with 6 speed autos which I like much better than the 4 speeds. I have owned three because I changed body styles, not because of any running gear issues. Each of the first two had around 100k on them and they never needed a repair. I have a 2011 3500HD CC SRW LB now that I love. It tows my GN flat bed with the 52 Mack on it with no problems and it is the best of the three for towing the fifth wheel. The previous versions of the Ford PSD had some issues and they do not have the best tranny's in the years you are looking at. If you want to get info on any specific model year go to the Diesel Place Forum. There is as much information as you could possibly want on all of the light duty diesels. http://www.dieselpla...forum/index.php

Click on "Parts Suppliers for Old Trucks" at the bottom of the page. Cal is under the fire apparatus list. I saw your question about the engine for your rig; get the data from the museum and it will give you the engine model, etc. If you can find it, the engine SN is stamped into the front right part of the block near the water pump.

By no means am I an expert on CDL, but I have always been told that anything under 26K, whether commercial or not, does not require a CDL. You maybe correct about non-commercial use above 26K. I never had to find out.

They insured mine last January.

JC Taylor in PA is a good choice.