Full Floater

Thank you fellas.

Aside from a tape measure, from inside of rim to inside of opposite rim, or from some point on the hub, is there any more "accurate" way to align a dayton hub truck at home? I've always been pretty close with a tape, but with todays tire costs, i'd like to do a little better yet.

Old thread, but just to confirm, they need to be adjusted to relief pressure at or before full lock position in either direction, correct?

And is the compressor supposed to "drain" it's oil into the crankcase somewhere, or is it just free floating oil in the entire acc drive? As none of my E6's seem to have an oil drain out of the compressor far as I can tell

Good to know. That helps narrow down what needs replacing.

Old thread here. I have a that happening with one of my E6's. New compressor. It slowly makes fluid in the PS reservoir, it's black, it's engine oil. The filter is new, far as I know it's plumbed correctly. The oil would be coming from the compressor output shaft I guess. Would the failed seal be on the compressor, or the power steering pump?

Well I as able to install 2 shims, 7/8" ID, 1 in either direction of movement in this joint. And that has taken up a majority of the slop. I am happy with the turnout. I would consider this a decent at home fix without having to have anything machined.

Haha.

Oh really? I ordered a gasket kit for it but I do recognize that some situations work better with silicone

I need to pull the top cover, shift tower on a 107 six speed to replace some leaking gaskets. Is there anything in particular I need to watch out of in removal and installation? Springs that will fly out and end up on the other side of the yard? shifter orientation? Etc. Many thanks.

Yes there is a conventional steering gear box and pitman arm/drag link on the left (drivers) side. Fluid also leaves the steering box to this assist cylinder on the passenger side. Which leads me to believe that it cannot be deleted as those ports in the steering box still must flow fluid somewhere

Yes, it's the passenger side. I have 3 westerns that range from 12k to 20k front axles and they all have them. The Easterns don't seem to have them.

How about deleting the steering assist cylinder?

On the western model R's. They seem to have this steering assist cylinder, coupled to the frame with the specific U joint. I have 3 of them, all with a fair bit of wear. Mack has discontinued this part. What are our options for replacement or re and re? Thanks

Ah, ok. Which is a better lifter, correct? For an future internal E6 work that I do, planned or unplanned. I'd like to upgrade the lifter and eliminate that problem.

On the topic of lifters. Is there an upgraded lifter style for the E6 engines?

I have a Walbro FRB series lift pump installed on the frame rail between the tank and the lift pump. It's a "pass thru" design that when not energized, the factory lift pump will simply pull thru it. I have it on a manual toggle switch so in the event of emergency air intrusion on the side of the road or filter change or whatever, there is no question that I will be able to get it to prime up fast

Well I bit the bullet, and replaced the box with a reman one. Nice and tight now.

If I were to install and electric lift pump today, the FRB series Walbro pumps, is what I would use. FRB 22 in this case.

thanks

I still have a little more play then i'd like. If I can improve it just slightly more yet, i'd be happy. Not trying to make it perfect, it just needs to be a little better. I just need to clarify something, before I try adjusting once more. When I adjust the screw, am I to be doing so with the steering in dead center, OR does it need to be adjusted with the steering turned to one side or another by a bit. ...to take it out of the high spot in the steering gear. Everything else in the steering is tight and/or new. Including king pins.

I've have fought with this issues quite a bit, I started a couple threads on it over the years. Earlier this year I just bit the bullet and had a perfectly functioning pump rebuilt, including the gov assembly. Most pump shops will want to go through the entire pump, instead of just rebuild the gov. I don't necessarily say it's to make more money, but more so when they send the pump out the door, there is no chance of complaints or other issues come up shortly there after Anyways, the gov springs and flyweight bushings seem to be what is worn out in them. Apparently there used to be a spring shim kit available thru Mack or otherwise, some time ago, that would be a half asses fix that can be done without removing the pump. This fix would be good enough for most of us. But seems that's not an option anymore. (If someone could come up with a kit like this again, im sure many of us would happily pay a premium for it). And I have exhausted that search for it. But there is still gov replacement items that pump shops seem to be able to get. My rebuilt pump now functions without the "surging" that it once did. Cost about 3k Cad. I'm happy with my decision to have that done. Makes driving much less stressful, and it's easier on the rest of the truck. Yes, throttle linkages and air ride cabs can contribute to this problem. But there is also an issue with the gov's that is likely the problem and EVERY ambac Mack I own or have driven, does it to one extent or another, depending on wear. It's a reality that we're having to deal with.

I would assume so, but didn't study it all that close. I will look

Ya this is the style of box that I have. The switch between floor and def is definite, and there is no lingering air movement in the opposite position as to what is selected.

Both pipes are hot. The engine also will run up to operating temps no problem. The blower motor is good. Just need more during the colder times, of both heat and blower volume. R model defrost vents are not the best to begin with, so the far reaches of the windshield always fog up etc.