Full Floater

Ok so I got it all back together, replace every oring and slapped it back on the trans. Hooked up all the air lines correctly, and Im not getting neutral or reverse at all now. Hi and lo work but every selection on the splitter including neutral and reverse is forward. So im going to pull it back off and see what I can find.

Once again you have an encouraging response, many thanks! I will be back working on it again in the a.m. I will try to push the smaller cylinder out, I did try a bit but as it wouldn't budge I left it alone until I found out more. I'll make a proper attempt now. Ah ok, now that I look at that piece again, it makes sense. Didn't even realize the air line didn't have it inside.... That's nice to not worry about that.. You will hear back from me soon.

Ok so im finally getting around to working on it. Pulled the top cover off no problem, lots of room. I noticed that on the reverse cylinder, the air fitting on the square top cover is loose. I have attached a picture of it. I can wiggle it to the point where it will come right out. Could this have been my issue all along? I understand that this is not the supply line for reverse but still wondering. I could not hear air escaping at any time however. If this is a problem, does anyone have the part number for these fittings? I suppose it may snug up with the line attached; but thought id ask anyways. And I started on the hi-lo cylinder and im REALLY struggling with this internal snap ring. I have attached a picture of it also. I had to leave it for today due to frustration. Are there any tricks for that one? Im feeling like I want to leave the remainder of that cylinder alone as the hi lo was working fine. I have neatly placed all parts that I have removed, in order on a clean table but im not yet seeing all of the o-rings that I got in the kit. They must be down deeper in the hi-lo cylinder im guessing. And am I safe to use brakeclean to clean everything up in there? ...if all the orings are getting replaced that is..

So its the entire top cover that comes off?? then the cylinders can be dismantled? Sorry, dumb question

Should I have the selector in Neutral for disassembly?

Ok I ordered that kit, waited patiently for it and oh boy....its here!!!!! Is this what im needing? Its a whole LOT of orings!!!! Now im scared.....

Thanks again!!

Yeah im going to have to do those orings quick. It won't engage at all when its hot now, once it cools down it seems to work fine. Got stuck today nosed into a wall and couldn't get it in reverse, had to come back later and try. Drove it home and same thing.

Ok so I replaced the air filter/breather and removed the air line from the round reverse cylinder and found lots of pressure from the air line when reverse was selected on the shifter, didn't even put a gauge on it as I no longer thought that pressure was an issue. I sprayed a little (not much) WD-40 down into the reverse cylinder in the air fitting, hooked the air line back up and reverse is now engaging first try again. Did one small job with the truck and it worked fine the entire time. So, im not sure if the breather may have been clogged or the WD-40 lubed things up a bit or both; but its working again. Im still going to order the o-ring kit just in case. Thanks again. I will stay posted with how it works over the next while.

So it the issue was in the switch. I swapped it out with another that I had kicking around and it worked first try. And the power divider is in fact working again. Thanks for the helpful suggestions

And another quick question....should the clutch be in (disengaged) or out (engaged) when attempting to select reverse? I have not been able to diagnose anything yet....darn work getting in the way.

And thanks for the part number

Ill check that, thanks

Thanks again Challenger!!! That will be next on the list once I figure out the reverse issue. Another thing that I just thought of is, I did engage the divider twice before I came to a complete stop. I was going slow, clutch disengaged so no load on it but I was moving. I realize the warning label says not to engage with vehicle in motion but I panicked

Thanks for the insight!!! Is the oring kit a "kit" that I need to order or are they standard orings?

Reverse is becoming more troublesome to engage lately on my RS600. I have a 12 speed with the air selector reverse. Im having to try far too hard to get it to engage reverse. I'll inch it around in forward gears a bunch, in and out of the clutch and other range selections until finally it will grab reverse. I don't hear any air leaks. So where can I start looking for an issue, I have just ordered a new air line filter, Mack# 2MD3131. After that, im lost. I have attached a picture of the air solenoids/valves on top of the tranny. Which one activates reverse? Does anyone have any tips in engaging reverse? Yesterday I had to free wheel down a small hill because I couldn't get it into reverse. Other times it goes in as easily as it used to. But those times are becoming fewer and further between.

Hi. Just got back from a 4, 12hr day gig delivering water for forest fires. Truck did pretty good overall. I used my power divider quite a bit and it seemed to operate just fine until yesterday. I had it engaged for about 3 miles of hill, loose gravel so there was some slippage from time to time, but it worked well, no noises no nothing. Now its not engaging anymore. I can't hear it click in and the light isn't coming on in the dash anymore. The bulb could be burnt out but I don't think that's it. I have attached a picture of what im assuming is the power divider unit. Am I correct in thinking this is the divider unit? What can I look for when trying to find my issue? I have never worked on a power divider before...

Mine even does it when im steady on the throttle. Kind of annoying

And would that usually be a worn bushing issue?

Well that's sure great to hear. I thought for sure I had a $5k + shop bill in my near future to have some bushings done.

Hey. I have a 79 RS600l. It is a low mileage truck and has never had any suspension/bushing work done. I don't know camelbacks well at all. But what im noticing is that after turning a corner and parking; the axles dog track a bit. The front drive axle seems to go one way or another more so then the back but its hard to tell. Then it seems to straighten out going down the road. Is this at all ''normal''? Do I have something that is severely worn out?

I have a 3" Bowie PTO water pump on my 79 R600. When i bought the truck, the PTO drive shaft was broken due to driver error. Anyways, im getting a new one made; but i have never used the PTO in this truck or any 12 speed for that matter. What are some basic guidelines? ? For example...how do I engage and disengage, what kind of rpms, what gear do I use? And does anyone know anything about Bowie water pumps?

Is that spade a part of the "puffer"?

What is the proper terminology for this steering ram? Its on the passenger side of my RS600l. There is play in both ends, the end that resembles a tie rod end has no grease fitting and is wore right out. It threads onto the ram and hopefully its available separately. There is also play in the other end where the cylinder attaches to the frame.

So here is a picture of my pump. (Dirty, I know) On the back of the pump, there is what looks to be a make spade electrical connector with a nut under it, with nothing attached to the connector. And to the left of the throttle arm, there is a set screw with a locking nut, is that the fuel delivery adjustment screw? And that is a picture with my throttle to the floor in the cab....is that about the angle they are when wide open usually? I can push it a bit further, but not much. This engine is an EM6 300.