Full Floater

Does anyone have a picture of the puffer? just so I know what im looking at?

Yeah that's the one, the spin on one. I'll see what I can find thanks. Does lube need to be applied to the seal when installing? Is there any way or need to lube the air valves when the filter is off?

And what is the filter for that is mounted off the top rear of the transmission with all the little air lines running to it? Does anyone have a part number for it and filter change interval opinions?

Totally!! Yeah old wiring is the one thing that scares me about our old trucks. Where is the buzzer on an R model? And is there a trigger on the air gauge or is there a seperate device to trigger the buzzer and light during a low air situation?

Ok maybe ill replace it.

I have a 79 rs600. The audible and visual low air warning devices both work on the truck but not all the time. If the air is low and i turn on the ignition, they will both come on. But sometimes, if the ignition is on and i fan the air down; the low air warnings won't come on. If i turn the ignition on and off a bunch it will usually start working again. Do you think this is an ignition switch issue? What actually triggers the warning? It almost seems like there is a loose or dirty connection somewhere. I would like to try to find/clean everything related to the warning system but don't know where to start looking. Again, thanks for all your advice in the past little while fellas

Ahhhh one of those tasks, I see! Ok maybe I will tackle that if I feel that I have had enough practice and its still not as smooth as I would like. I have the two pistons...at least I think that's what I see. Here is a picture of the truck performing its first paid job

On the top lid of the tranny?

Hmmm ok. I will try some more and see if I can get it. It just seems that if I preselect, it will grind during the second or two that it takes to achieve the desired rpm. Maybe this is normal? I just cringe every time I hear it.

Im still having issues downshifting from OD into direct, without changing the main gears. Am im supposed to clutch and at the same time, increase the rpm to match as I select direct, then release clutch? I now have the upshifting pretty darn smooth and im happy about that!!! Thanks

Ok, that makes sense. Thanks for your insight

Does the air system typically get enough lube from the compressor blow by? Is is good practice to add a small dose of some kind of lube once a year or so like ATF? This is for a 1978 R model that does not really have any air leaks but I just want to keep it that way and was curious about lube. And if so, where would I add it? Thanks

Also, here is a before and 3 afters, of my recently acquired RS600. Just gave er some new paint. cleaning it up and getting it licenced again. Its been an off highway truck for 8 years.

What kind of operating temps should I see with my 1979 E6 300? It runs around 160 without much load and climbs to about 200-210 when worked harder. Is that about normal? What is the "I should be concerned" temp?

I replaced the switch today and it didn't do a thing unfortunately

Yeah you are right, there are two switches. They both light up everything that they are supposed to; except for the headlights.

Hi. I have a 1979 RS600L. The headlight rocker switch will illuminate all the lights (clearance, markers etc) but not the headlights themselves. The lamps do in fact work as there is a momentary on switch on the dash that will light them up. Not sure if this is factory or not. But its only a momentary on... The dimmer switch has no effect on the main headlight rocker switch not lighting up the headlights.. Where can I start looking? Id like to replace the relay, but im not sure where it is. Im new to the R model. Any thoughts would go a long ways...thanks!!! Kevin

Mine is leaking out the back seal or O ring on the reservoir. There are two nuts holding it together and they are tight. Is there an O ring behind there that could fail? Will anything fly out at me if I pull the back part of the reservoir off?

My 1979 rs600 water truck that a recently purchased has a pto driven Bowie water pump. The drive shaft from the pto to the pump is missing, as it broke years ago due to driver error. How do i go about finding another shaft for it? Should i have one made instead? Ill try to get a picture as soon as i can

Just went to look at it and they aren't Mack diffs unfortunately. So the hubs probably wont swap over as easy as I hoped.

And do the fuel tanks interchange from drivers side to passenger side? The tank truck needs a passenger side fuel tank and the parts truck only has a drivers side tank

Found a running parts truck with a 300+ and budd rims and hubs on the drive axles. I have not looked at it in person yet but im looking tomorrow. Im assuming they are Mack diffs. That would be a good score to find the hubs, drums and rims in one shot. They are also 22.5s. Is there anything i should look for in regards to compatibility of axles to accept those hubs? I'd like to swap the hubs, rims and drums or whatever i need to, onto the tank truck. Also, i picked up everything i need to paint the tank up, so that's exciting!!

Ok great. Whatever is in there now smells kind of like ps fluid. Should i drain it or just top it up with engine oil?

What is the reservoir for behind the compressor? Is the compressor lubed by this res? And what kind of fluid do I use in it? ...its leaking a bit

And if I went away from the Dayton style rims and got some budd rims and hubs, would the hubs needs to be Mack specific?