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Full Floater

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Everything posted by Full Floater

  1. Full Floater
    I did pull the fill plugs (both sides) and yes they both had metal particulate on them, along with the magnetic drain plug. They all were magnetic. I found out that its a bit of a bugger to get fluid back into these things as the fill hose has to be shoved forward quite a bit in order to allow the oil to actually flow down into an opening, instead of splashing right back out of the fill hole.
  2. Full Floater
    You betcha, I will be careful with the amount applied.
  3. Full Floater
    Working on it now. The old oring came out just fine, with no breaks. I cleaned everything up spotless and I think I will run very light RTV in the oring galley, re-install the oring and also a very light bead along the outside edge of the cover. Should I use thread sealer instead of RTV on the bolt threads?
  4. Full Floater
    Great suggestion. It's due for an oil change anyway, since it's a new to me trans and I have no record of service history. So this is my calling
  5. Full Floater
    Thanks gents. I'll try the silicone!
  6. Full Floater
    Excuse the dirt and grime, the steam cleaner is coming out. In the bellhousing side of the 107 6 speed, I have one of these square caps (countershaft caps?) leaking a bit. Is there a gasket kit for these?
  7. Full Floater
    You're probably looking at the right tag, passenger side of the engine kind of behind and above the injection pump. I also have a "newer" (1983) EM-6 that doesn't have the engine "family" category on the tag. That category MIGHT be a thing only on earlier engines. All my pre 1977 engines have that. And the B family apparently are Dynatard engines. That's not to say that yours is not compatible....just I don't know how to identify it further. Maybe someone knows what to look for under the valve covers/valve train
  8. Full Floater
    The crank looked good, to my naked eye, and the sleeve is sure tight after cooling down, so I "think" it should be leak free
  9. Full Floater
    I do recall the seal being recessed a fair bit. I didn't measure it. The flywheel and clutch are assembled now. Now, do I need to pull it apart to put a sealant under the wear ring?
  10. Full Floater
  11. Full Floater
    Hmmmmm.....good point on the sealant. The manual did state to heat the ring to 400*f and made no mention of sealant..
  12. Full Floater
    Just an update. This is the rear main seal and wear ring kit that I purchased. Fitment was perfect. Heated the wear sleeve up and it slid over the crank flange with little effort and cooled to a tight fit. Froze the rear main seal and was able to get it seated fully into the housing without using the special service seal tool. https://www.woodlineparts.com/products/pai-ekt-3800-mack-57gc186a-rear-seal-and-wear-ring-kit-made-in-usa?_pos=1&_sid=5edee4cc7&_ss=r
  13. Full Floater
    On the engine tag, does it say "B" in the engine family category? I do believe there are some B engines, that simply didn't come with the actual retarder as maybe they were not speced out to have a retarder by the purchaser. I have a 237 engine family B, that doesn't have the Dynatard. But as far as I know, I could install one if I wanted to.
  14. Full Floater
    Anyone ever put a main seal in the freezer prior to install in the housing, to shrink the OD of the seal to ease install? Just curious
  15. Full Floater
    Revisiting an old thread. I am wanting to replace a not working square, bolt on heater adapter with a conventional style heater element. Like the 81 and newer trucks have, mostly for ease of future replacement and parts availability down the road. Can this be made to happen with the existing water jacket plug/bushing that is currently housing the bolt on heater, OR should I use one of the other water jacket plugs? Im thinking something like this might work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173017045115
  16. Full Floater
    Could it be taken off with the seal housing removed? And just to confirm, the seal gets installed into the housing "prior" to installing over the crank, correct? And is RTV adequate for a seal housing sealant or is there a gasket needed? Fjh....I see you are from BC? Me to.
  17. Full Floater
    I ordered 2 seal/wear ring kits in case I mess one up haha
  18. Full Floater
    Now that's an idea!!!
  19. Full Floater
    Those were EXACTLY my thoughts on the wear ring removal!! Glad to hear our thoughts are alike! Installing the seal is what has me a bit concerned, without the tooling.
  20. Full Floater
    This is the (upside down) part number off of the Mack branded rear main seal. Appears to be the lip type seal, not the lead seal. This one is a little oily (I cleaned it for the pic) so I guess I will be replacing it. Looks like there is a wear ring on the crank that someone pounded on with a drift.. You can see the marks. I haven't looked close enough at it yet to confirm if that's a wear ring, but im going to assume so. Looks like they are still available here and there. Hopefully with the plastic install sleeve. I don't have the $700 install tool however.....
  21. Full Floater
    Yeah maybe it started off round I guess
  22. Full Floater
    Sort of off topic, but what model turbo is that?
  23. Full Floater
    Does anyone know if this O-ring on the adapter fitting for the oil feed to the jake assembly thru the rocker, is still available thru Jacobs? Looks like a specific square style oring. I'm reluctant to reuse it According to the parts list on their site, its a .365IDx.07W
  24. Full Floater
    I have noticed that the tall bolts for the rocker housing are longer, to accommodate the jake assembly
  25. Full Floater
    Is the later seal a preferable replacement?

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