a5redwing

I am intrested in that for sure. Lets talk soon, may need to change bearings and drums would need to be swaped, but I would be willing to swap wheels hubs and drums. I don't know if brake pads would work with new set up.

That came off a drilling rig, with all the pushing and pulling we do in the woods I thought it would be helpfull. Usually we put a pull bar on the front but this is just as good.

No not me, but I'm gonna look around now.

The big city of Arcadia, LA. Who else is on here?

1981 with a 237 and a six speed. It's in pretty good shape I'll try to get some more pics next week.

Yes sir it does, from the angle of the pic you can't see the one on the drivers side. Dual straights.

It was the first time I really got out and worked this truck, and I will say I was surprised. I thought the 237 with a 6 speed would be under powered boy was I wrong. I did have a few kinks to work out, but it made me a little money. Now that we're in sumertime in Louisiana an a/c would be nice. I've already priced a red dot system and it wasn't to bad. Also would like to do a hub swap but had some troubles finding a donor. This old dog is probably gonna hang around awhile.

We flushed it, but I'm sure it will need to be flushed again later. I put on a new coolant filter on every oil change (10,000 mi.). He wanted me to run straight water and cascade detergent and let it dry over the weekend and I chose not to in case some work came up.

The parts changer I use suggested after I flushed the coolant in my 99 mack that I should swap over to red coolant. After a few minutes of thinking and talking about it I did it. He claims It doesn't need any additive and is better for the motor. I don't know if he was blowing smoke or not so i did it. Any known downsides or issues with swapping? Thanks for any help.

One more thing, I've had the fan blower switch go bad. The fan would blow but would not have any a/c in high or low just in medium. Replaced the switch and all was good. And make sure all wiring harnesses are plugged up. sometimes its the stuff that makes you feel dumb.

Those rotory valves aren't to expensive, you might as well get a new one. I've had one go bad before.

The mechanic was asking me the other day "Why haven't you had your truck turned up yet?" I have a 355/380 e7 and I told him it was decent on power and blowing up that motor didn't seem like a good idea. He said that all you need is a new turbo and injectors $$$$$. Can I safely have it turned up a little +- 25 hp WITHOUT changing parts?

Is that reman or without the core?

Good deal. I found another post he had and added one too.

i didn't mean to down your reputation, I was trying to figure out what those buttons were and accidentally clicked it. Sorry.

Here's what is was: the intake on the compressor's gasket was bad. A little gasket maker and problem solved! Thanks to everyone who answered.

I know my pressure bleeds off a little from the drier, that could make sense. Any ideas on how to locate noise while idling?

No I'm not sure it is, but the Mack mechanic that looked at it said it was. He thought it was the intake line for the compressor until I figured out it went along with pressure build up.

Hey guys back again, so here we go. I have a 355/380 e7 and a Bendix compressor. In the morning while engine is cool I have no noise, but after my compressor builds up a few times and gets hot, when the turbo kicks in there is a choppy noise while pressure builds up. Once the drier pops off it stops. This is the way it is most of the day. By afternoon and everything is hot I hear it EVERY time the turbo kicks in. It will not make a noise while idling or revving the motor. The compressor stops building pressure at 130 but when the turbo is working hard only 120. Is the compressor, governor, a air line bad? I check all my turbo boots and related. I has to be something dealing with that compressor, right? Thanks for any help.

I use a liner in my bobtail dump. It is a slick poly material they come in different lengths and widths. If you ever plan to haul hot mix asphalt you either have to remove the liner or buy a very expensive one that can take the heat. My bed is 13.5 feet and i think the liner is 10 feet wide (It goes up the sides about 18 inches) and it cost about 350.00 without installation. I put it in myself and it was a chore. They say it needs to be at least 70 degrees outside for it to lay flat and mold to the bed. I say it needs to be closer to 90 degrees. They will charge you by the foot, If all you haul is soil, sand, and some rock a 1/4 inch liner is all you need. if you haul rip rap or any demo debis consider getting something thicker. http://www.rrrsupply.com/poly-truck-liners/ This is similar to what people around here use. A spray in liner will hold more dirt than it does on bare metal. Diesel works but if it isn't allowed you may have work that shovel. PS no matter what liner you have mud will stick to anything especially drilling mud. Drew

That's a pretty good run down Terry T, thanks. I don't think the CH offered anything other than mack engines, but just because I've never seen one doesn't mean anything. I'm with you Bob, but I'd rather see a Cat or Cummins before a Mercedes, Etc.

I think I'm with you Bob, Kinda like F150-F650 is a F series. I know a ch 612 is a single axle, so you're probably right.

I'm just curious, but whats the difference between a ch600 and ch613 if any?