brettj3876

Not on an AC but a plain ole 1999 E-tech 460. It definitely woke it up some. Think it cost 1400 from Rochester diesel. It's too bad nobody can do custom tunes for the E-7s Detroit and cat have a bunch of reputable custom tuners. Send them your ecm and tell them what you want done. Would be nice if we could do that Lol

Yeah I kinda figured that was a vmac. Right now we have the timing at 20 degrees. Might try bumping it up to 22 and see how it likes it. When we first had it at 16-17 degrees it didn't like it at all, too far retarded. Right now we're averaging 6.2-6.3mpg running all hill country. Closer to 7 if we run all light loads for the week Fun fact, I found the tag off a ME-7 650hp marine engine. 15.3:1 compression and 23 degrees timing I like how the mechanical 3406b/c have the timing advance with the governor so it advances it as rpms go up instead of fixed time

That pic is for the mechanical right not vmac? I can't see it very good on my phone. Do they have some sort of timing advance like cat does on their inline pumps? I remember some of the E-6s being around 19-21 degrees. I was under the assumption that all the e7 mechanicals used the same P7100 not the Robert Bosch or AM I have the timing at 20 degrees right now. Started out at 16 and that was too retarded....ran like shit With that low of timing it has to have some sort of advance as it goes up through the rpm.

That 95 being a full mechanical would be a P7100. Not the semi electronic pump with the electronic gov housing. I don't have a book on hand but the mechanical ones were in the area of 17-21 degrees fixed time.

Yeah and got a new charge air cooler. No boost leaks, just too much fuel for that small turbo. That was if you lugged it below 1400. Keep it above that and about 950 was the max

Before the inframe and before we converted it back to a mechanical engine we had the blixxton. The egt's would climb super fast, you had to constantly watch the pyro and back out of it and drop a gear. It would easily go past 1100 if you didn't pay attention.

Dad's 1971 F700 had the ole 237 maxed out. He said the turbo looked bigger than other 237s he saw. The company he worked with had all macks from 237s to 315s. This was back in 1982. He said his would slightly pull away from the 315s and 318 Detroit's. Then he got a 74 U model 237 and said it was nothing compared to the 71

Get a pyro if you don't have one. You will need it with the stock turbo. That stock turbo will be out of its efficiency range. To do it right I'd also do a bigger turbo that will lower your egt's and stage 2 Rochester injectors. The injectors won't supply anymore fuel than the pump will flow. But turning up the pump with stock injectors will give it a longer pulsewidth (meaning more time to deliver the fuel, thus increasing egt's and in theory retarding the timing because fuel is still being squirted in closer to TDC). Stage 2 injectors will squirt the fuel in faster and give it a better burn. I would go with a S475 (75mm) with a 1.15 exhaust housing or a 1.32/ The s475 comes with the 1.32 housing and you can get it for 650-700ish OEM borg warner. The 1.15 exh housing can be bought separately for 200-250. It will have a quicker spool up but won't breathe as good on the top end. As far as timing I would leave it alone at 1st and ask Antrim what they would do. They'll probably say don't bump it more than 2 degrees. We have the pump opened up all the way and all the mods I just listed. The guy that built it put in different barrel and plungers (same 12mm but they came out of some AG equipment, that's all he'd tell us) All this was done during an inframe over 200k ago with 15.3:1 pistons. Doesn't burn any oil between changes. Little less than half gal. Which is normal consumption. 170 thermostat and it won't see over 200 degrees on a hot summer day running in hill country. And pyro won't go over 950-975 Remember when you turn up a diesel you want to run a little higher rpm than stock. Even though it will have power down low like a maxidyne don't lug it below 1350 for any length of time. Lugging a turned up engine will kill it faster than anything else. I personally don't take it lower than 1350 unless I'm just about to top a hill. Respect the extra ponies and it'll last just as long as stock.

Have it disabled on the 93 full mechanical. On the P7100s is it different? They call it an aneroid ours looked worn out so we blocked it off. No big deal if you're an actual driver and not just a steering wheel holder. Ease on into it and it hardly smokes. Mash it and it'll turn the sky black. Definitely has instant response

The 60 series turbo people refer to isn't the stock 60 series turbo. It's what a lot of the guys put on a Detroit after tuning the ecm. It's a BW S475 (171702). But you do need more fuel to run that turbo with the 1.32 housing. You can also put a 1.15 housing on it. You'd probably enjoy that housing more for better spool up and you really wont lose much on top. Needs bigger injectors to run the 1.32 housing That S475 you can get for 650-700

Blixxton on the 99

I would like to do something like that. Or have it mounted on the passenger side mirror. I'd like to get another spotter mirror and mount it on top of the mirror to see if it's putting out a haze on a hard pull.

I'll have to find the vid I've got one cracking the throttle a few times right after the conversion. It does start a little bit harder with the fixed timing but not that noticable until it reaches about 10 degrees outside. No place to plug in down at the yard.

Temps are loaded. Fan comes on at 195 I believe but I always turn it on at the bottom of a hill. On a really hot summer day it might see 205-210 for a few minutes No a FASS won't do anything, the pump is maxed out and you can't get anymore without opening it up and swapping in different barrels/plungers. Bigger turbo moving more air so less EGT. Timing also plays a role. Advanced will be lower EGT but higher cylinder pressure/temp. Retarded is higher EGT and more boost because it's dumping fuel in later closer to TDC before it fires.

It does but the electronic pump flowed more fuel believe it or not. Has slightly less ass than before but we're going to have another pump built. The guy that put together this pump has a core were gonna buy and build one that flows just a tad more, that's all I'll say for now. Factory had 16.9:1 pistons and now it has 15.3:1 (that's what the 650 marine engines run) If you ran the high comp 16.9 or 16.5 I don't think it would live very long if you weren't careful. This right now is setup so you can have your foot to the floor and pyro won't go above 950 down around 1350-1400rpm. You really have to work it for the water temp to get to 200. Has a 170 T-stat We pull vans around Pa NY NJ home every day

In the process of replacing 4,5,6 injection lines with PAI ones since these new Volvo shitty lines crack every few months. I'll take some better pics tomorrow when it's light out. Used a cable and the stock pedal after getting rid of the electronics

I remember reading that thread. We replaced the CAC about 4 years ago, same symptoms. I'm not surprised the full mechanical 350 makes more boost than vmac

The stage 2 injectors will make a way bigger difference than the blixxton did and really roll out the coal if you mash it between gears Yeah we run the stage 2 on a full mechanical. Before we converted it to full mechanical we had the blixxton and those injectors. You'll also need a pyro and a bigger turbo. Your egt's will climb sky high with the stock turbo. What year is it and do you know what compression pistons? They had 16.9 16.5 15.7 and 15.3 Our 93 350 had 16.9:1 from the factory. 591 crown is 16.9:1 some books aren't right with the specs. Our 93 tune up book said 16.5s but when we rebuilt it the pistons were 16.9 and we put 15.3:1 in it Also when plugging in the pro link scanner it said it was a 400hp but the valve cover said 350. A word of advice, don't lug it below 1350-1400 if you want it to last. It will pull hard down to 1200 like a maxidyne but you'll be putting way more stress on the bottom end with that much power. And performance wise we were running with this company with 550 cats and they couldn't pull away from us running the same weights. The 500 isx's we walked away from and another guy had a 500 60 series that was just pathetic Lol. Dusted him like he wasn't even there. They had a few cats that were tuned, they were the only ones that could pull away from us but not by much

30+ psi on a 350? I don't know about that, could be for the E-tech but the old vmac1-2 was about 24 psi for the 350.

Unlucky I guess Lol. We've had that one for almost 4 years now. We took it out of service in May to do the trans, rear main and clutch and a few other odds and ends. I think I've seen that black CL in your avatar.

Our 2 trucks. 93 mid roof that was a 350 vmac1, we converted to a full mechanical with a pump off a EM-7 300 maxidyne, rack opened up all the way, Stg 2 injectors from Rochester and S475 turbo. Rockwell 3.91s, Lo pro 22.5 and an old school RTOO14613 with the .62 over. Triple digit truck. Big red is a 99 460 E-tech only 685k miles on it. T2180 4.42s and tall 24.5s rebuilt engine in 2013 has less than 200k on it. Both have full gauge packages Figured I'd post these. Make someone happy to see some not ratted out CH's. The pic of big red was a few months ago when we're rebuilding the transmission. And that paint job on the 93 my dad did

I don't think they make it anymore for the E-tech but we have the blixxton tuner on our 99 460. Cost 1400 but it woke it up. If you mash it between gears it throws out smoke the entire length of a 53 footer. Cleans up really quick. Actually don't get the Rochester turbo kit. Get a S475, it's also called the 171702. A lot of guys that tune a 60 series will use that turbo. You can get em for 650-700$ genuine Borg Warner. If you feel the 1.32a/r exhaust housing is too laggy you can buy a 1.15 for around 200$ and your throttle response will be instant but it will sacrifice top end breathing Idk the stock impeller size for your oem turbo but it's small compared to the 75mm Borg. I run that turbo on a fully mechanical E7 with Rochester injectors and the rack opened all the way. I walk all over MP8s and isx's

Yeah we went with PAI lines too. Went through 5 lines in less than a year. Those PAI lines are stout

Rochester diesel makes stage 1/2/3 injectors and a turbo kit if you wanna wake it up. Few guys on here run them

I would find a mechanical E7 to put in the super liner. Antrim diesel in green castle pa has dyno'd quite a few E7s over the 500 mark. If you want any advice call and ask for Richard. He gave us some advice for building an injection pump.