paulbrook

I have the drawings (from the museum) and could probably scan them and send them over - trouble is I am moving house and all my files are all boxed up ready for the move. But I should have them out of the boxes by the end of next week.

I wonder how much it would actually be? The last set of fenders they did for me was for a Diamond T 980, and they were big old things, with a back edge and spot welded outer valence. The pair cost £600, which must be about $800. So I wonder what the shipping would be? The AC fenders are much smaller.

I can get them made but delivery might be a bit expensive! I even have an AC fender as a pattern, but would need to mock up the inner valance that runs from the inner edge of the fender to the top of the frame rail. Vintage Body, Panel & Wing Fabrication | Boydell & Jacks (featherwing.com)

Here's another sequence of pics of a very early Bedford (it is actually a Chevy) steering wheel getting repaired

Plastikote comes in spray cans and you are more likely to find it in a DIY store than a car parts store. I could not vouch for its solvent resistance, I cannot remember ever having used it where that might be an issue. It dries to form a plasticky skin (hence the name I guess).

Hi folks I need a drivers side door for a ,49 L series cab. Altough mine is a sleeper cab I am sure the doors are the same as a standard "L". Thanks

Oh and this was what the truck in the first picture above looked like when it was done

We routinely repair cracks with epoxy filler and then paint using a produce which this side of the pond is known as "Plastikote" which, unlike paint has a very original feel. We minimise the risk of the steel inners causing trouble by gently routing out the roots of the cracks (and the surface of the steel inner) with a small carbide burr on the end of a dremel. just like your dentist. If we are still worried we will run a bit of Fertan rust killer down into the crack. Then gently spray it up, one can is enough, and refit/enjoy. If you need a particular color then any decent paint supplier will match and mix you a rattle can. Pictures are a before and after of a Dodge fire truck wheel

Oh and my Christmas present from my son - he made up a few left hand threaded wheel studs.

Separate cylinder heads appeared in 1925 or 1926 I believe. This is a 1929 so is the later engine.

Oh and I know - I still have one long stud to make for that spring...

The springs are great - although I have had to re-make a couple of clips and re-do the bump stops and long studs. Today I have been hooking up the brakes. All mechanical, the footbrake operates bands on the ends of the jackshaft, the hand brake operates the rear drums. No front brakes. Most of the (many ) pivots and pins were worn, so I have reamed everything out and made up all new pins slightly oversized. Next job is to move the gearbox over slightly, it is about 3/16 out of true. One of the most remarkable things about this truck is the engineering that went into into it in the first place. Tolerances are close, and everything fits tightly. It is a joy to work on.

I will have a spare rear end off a 1949 LFSW?

With the engine now converted tyo electric start and running well I have taken a bit of time out from bolting other folks trucks together to start bolting my own 1929 AC together. The engine and gearbox are now in, so piece by piece I can get all the linkages and levers mounted in place. I have put a little paint on here and there in the places that it will be tricky to reach with the big lumps in but will be giving the whole thing a few more coats of paint when the chassis is more complete. By the way - best wishes to everyone for 2022.

I have just completed (and test run) a converted AC engine. Relatively straightforward as long as you have access to a decent lathe. We decided to machine the flywheel in such a way that the ring gear sat in a rebate so that the outer was the same diameter as the flywheel. We then 3d modelled and 3d printed a starter mount before casting it and machining it. We machined it deliberately to require shimming to ensure the correct meshing of the starter pinion. Because we are in UK I decided to start with a suitably sized ring gear (which, incidentally bolted on rather than being shrunk on (although we did machine the flywheel for a press fit) then sourced the starter motor to suit. In my case I went for a truck set up and 24v, so if required I can jump start it from a (modern) truck. Video here:(11) Facebook