jzack

Maybe its 10 minutes....not really sure because I always bump my idle up too. I wouldn't think its adjustable because I heard its a safety issue to prevent colder than normal cylinder temps that could allow unburned fuel passby the rings and into the crankcase.....not positive though.

Probably overrides the auto shutdown. My CH has one anyway. After 5 min of idle time a buzzer sounds warning you the engine will shutdown unless the override button is pressed.

I never heard the duel exhaust thing, could you provide a link to that page? If we are looking at the same product I actually read that they decrease your back pressure. This is why they have been popular on school buses that have that extremely long, restrictive pipe that runs the length of the bus body.

I ordered a QPM (Quiet Performence Muffler) for my truck a while back but haven"t had a chance to install it yet. SUPPOSEDLY, they will relieve backpressure yet remain just as quiet as stock. They also claim to lower EGT's and get you better fuel mileage. In fact they guarranty better mileage or your money back. I have heard that your Jake is quite a bit louder with a QPM though. It looks like a big auger system stuffed into your stack. It is patented so there may be something to it..... The mfr. is Grand Rock, I ordered mine through Berube's. Jeff

Thanks Mackpro, we'll try the number and see, like you said it couldn't hurt.

A friend of mine has a 2001 Vision (100yr anniv. edition) that started to stall at random about a year ago. Well last week it got so bad he brought it in to the local dealer and what they discovered was really odd. One of his coolant temp sensors was actually pushing coolant up the wire! Eventually it made its way all the way to the ECU and caused all kinds of havoc. Mack said he needed a new ECU ($1800), a new wire harness, and all this would take 8 hrs labor. A hard pill to swallow in these economic times! Since this was a unique circumstance out of anyone's control, could my friend get anywhere by taking this straight to Mack Headquarters (maybe a 1-800#) and asking them to take care of at least part of his repair bill? Thanks, Jeff

My coupler was only a few inches behind the pump (towards the cab). You may not have the Bosch inline pump. Is it a V-macI or II?

When you get your truck back I'd keep a close eye on that Pyrometer. I think 1200F is max, otherwise something else must be wrong. Are you working in extreme conditions? I don't think I could a 1600F reading on my truck if I put my winter front on in August, turned A/C on high, and climbed a 20mi grade with a brick on the pedal!

Are those temps on the Farenheit scale? Is the probe mounted after the turbo? That engine wouldn't last long at those temps if yes to those questions.

I think JP Chrome maybe. They used to specialize in Macks. I dont have the website but Google should find it. Jeff

I understand that more fuel = less engine life. But I also think how a truck is driven can be an even bigger factor. My MPG actually went up a few ticks since turning up the pump. Now I actually spend LESS time in the throttle trying to accelerate or maintaining a cruising speed. I only give it enough to reach max boost and I start backing off when the pyro hits 1000F on long pulls. The only thing that concerns me is the higher factory compression ratio of a 350HP vs. the 400HP and up. So adding 460HP fuel to a 350HP could create even higher cylinder pressures then intended for an E-7 from the factory. But again, excess heat can be controlled by your right foot. Mack engineers have to design their engine packages from the factory to be able handle anything an inexperienced or uncaring driver can throw at it. I, on the other hand, like many O/O am experienced and care about the maintenance of my truck. My E-7 has 790,000mi and 26,000hrs. with out ever cracking a bolt on it other than for valve adjustment. So spending $380 to turn my 350 up to a 450+ on an engine that will need a rebuild at some point anyway was worth risking some engine life in my circumstance. I actually would have traded this truck in for a 427 or 460 if not for the performance gain from the module. The cost of even a 5 year old truck is much greater than a rebuilt engine so the decision was a no-brainer for me. Besides, if I'm getting BETTER mpg with the module, how much harm could it be doing? However, I don't disagree with the overall fact that turning up the fuel can mean shortened engine life in most circumstances. Jeff

Mine had 750,000 un-touched when I added the Blixxton and now has 790,000. Of course adding more fuel probably doesn't extend the life of my moter but the increased power and milaege is worth the trade-off IMO. The nice thing about the Blixxton is it adds more fuel in the lower RPM ranges where the electronic E-7's are usually weak. Probably from EPA breathing down Mack's neck. Although if you are already getting 30+ lbs I'm not certain the Blixxton will help (guessing you have a 427 or 460HP). They were designed to work for the 300HP - 400HP E-7's with the electronic Bosch in-line pump.

I would try both positions and pay attention to your boost guage if you have one. There should be a big difference between the two positions. Mine will run 30PSI on the 30% setting and about 22psi on the 10% setting. My instructions were actually wrong and said the 30% setting was toward the wire when it was away. I was running it on the 10% setting for 3 months before I realized it and WOW what a difference! I'm really impressed with this product. Best $380 I ever spent on my Mack. Your truck still running good with your Blixxton Noid? Jeff

These batteries have the strip caps. Funny thing is all three of them seem to be leaking from under the caps. I'm going to need a battery box soon as mine has a fair amount of rot (14 years of Mn. winters). I would hate to have to put these leaky batteries into a brand new box. Maybe I'll call the manager at Batteries Plus and bug him a little more about this.