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Keith S

Bulldog
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Everything posted by Keith S

  1. Version 2. I like vertical better.
  2. I'm working on the rear lights; turn, backup, brake, and license plate. Except for the backup lights, everything is the correct size. What do you think?
  3. Here are some recent photos of wiring for the new all-electric Mack truck.
  4. Okay, tires/wheels/rims look much better than I thought. A picture is worth... well, pictures are free so I guess it's the price of the camera. I'll stop at the tire/rim shop and order the 22.5 rims and tires. SnowDog, 2 miles/gal !!! Gallons, not litres. The cost of that electric Mack is looking better (once it's built). I'm hoping for 140 miles (city driving) for about $5. Probably 70 miles for $5 "cruising". If the battery charge is really low (not a good idea), figure 4+ hours to recharge.
  5. I just got a quote for six wheels/rims (8.25x22.5) and tires (Cooper Roadmaster) for $3100. The wheels/rims are reasonable, but the tires... I suspect I won't like that gap but... Any pictures of mounted 22.5's and that gap? And that "fix" to hide the gap. If I didn't know better and have the split rims to compare, would I know the difference?
  6. I'm ready for tires & rims for my '62 B46 and I'm trying to figure out the rims for the Dayton hubs. I need six new tires and probably 6 rims too. It currently has 10.00 x 20 bias ply tube-type tires. The build sheet shows it originally came with 11.00 x 22.5 front & rear. It looks like I have a combination of three different 2-piece Firestone & Goodyear rims - some rims are 20 x 7.5. A couple rims are damaged/bent A couple Firestone rims have non-matching side rings At least one Goodyear has what looks like an old lock ring I'll happily replace all the rims if I can figure out what I need Tubeless or tube-type are acceptable as long they fit my spoke hubs Accuride catalog shows a lot of stuff, but not enough information to figure out what I need So, What is available that looks good?
  7. My chamber support bracket has three flanges. I added some cracked-weld pics: S-Cam Repair & Cracked welds 5/8"-18 is what's on my axle tubes - the threads were badly butchered. I still haven't found a 5/8"-18 thread chaser - 9/16" seems to be the biggest. A thread-chaser is not, and never will be, a tap A thread-chaser re-forms the existing threads Dulling a tap can make it a thread-chaser Use a on a wire-wheel on a bench grinder to dull the tap. Be really, really aggressive in dulling the tap - you want the "dull tap" to re-form the existing threads, not cut new ones. With fine threads, false starting the dull-tap/chaser is easy so take your time If the hole is beyond saving, there's always helicoil repair - which is a lot easier said than done for a 5/8" bolt, on really hard/tough steel. Not a job for the biggest 1/2" drill.
  8. It does look cool. I had my B shipped from Maine for about $1 a mile.
  9. For those looking for Model B wiper arm replacements - not identical to original but... Anco #44-04. ebay for about $25 each; amazon for $21 & free shipping. The length is adjustable and comes with both 5/16" and 3/8" tapered, knurled driver for ISO shaft (double flats). Wiper Parts.pdf
  10. Rear wheel bearing adjustment procedure as stated in Mack's Wheel Bearing document: Preload: Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 250 lb.ft Loosen adjusting nut 1 full turn Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 50 lb.ft Loosen adjusting nut as needed to align the adjusting-nut pin with a hole with anti-rotate thing Install outer nut & torque to 300-400 lb.ft
  11. I've never tried the heat/cold thing with wheel bearings. I once did the freezer thing with pressed in piston pins - took too much time for lubing, aligning...etc to do it again. I've never seen an axle spindle that didn't show any sign of wear on the bottom. Maybe not enough to catch a fingernail, but enough to measure; less than 0.001"
  12. The linings are all the same and symmetric. The shoes are not. The casting's are imprinted with either "Upper Left / Lower Right", or "Upper Right / Lower Left". Before I took the other side apart I thought there were four different shoes and linings. They shoes only fit one way... well, when put together correctly. Here are some before's and after's.
  13. I won't be removing any springs at this stage - just want to get the thing road legal. While all the electrics are not as heavy as the gas engine, the front end will have about 1000 lbs (motor is 250 lbs and the front battery pack is about 700 lbs). The two side tanks (battery packs) are about 300 lbs each. Except for the gas engine, the drivetrain is all Mack (heavy).
  14. For roller wheel bearings (ball or cylindrical): The idea behind the inner-race (not the outer race) rotating on the spindle is to increase bearing life - it does not rotate fast, but the rotating inner race is another bearing surface. If it didn't/doesn't rotate, the rollers would quickly wear the bottom of the inner race. However, the rotating inner race can/does cause wear on the bottom of the spindle - normally the top of the spindle has very little (if any) wear. You'll almost always see minor wear on the bottom 1/3rd of the spindle - that's where the load is. Unless specified as a press fit, putting a few punch marks on the spindle does not make the bearing a press fit, it just messes up that precision-ground bearing surface. The manufacturer spent a lot of money machining that surface.
  15. Umm... Unless there's something new in the last 40 years, the bearing race is supposed to spin on the spindle.
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