Keith S

I would also like to replace my 17QJ3186 brake drums. Did you ever find aftermarket replacements?

Wow. What is all the crying about? We control: The White House The Senate The House of Representatives The Supreme Court 34 State Governorships Wall Street We're: Killing the unions Suppressing voting rights of undesirables Creating segregated schools and neighborhoods Deporting low-wage workers Building a wall paid by Mexico Draining the Swamp Hillary is jail We've won the wars in the middle-east We'll be bombing North Korea out of existence Healthcare is finally fixed Tax reform will give us thousands of dollars We're again respected around the world Our leader is too busy working to play golf Could it get any better?

If you want to vent your political views, do it somewhere else. Or am I infringing on your freedom of speech? Just like you're trying to do with NFL players protesting. Comedian Chris Rock said it best "... no white man in America would change places with me. And I'm rich." Veterans did not fight and die so that everyone had to bow to the whims of our dickhead-in-chief... that behavior is for North Korea. Or is that the behavior you expect from freedom loving Americans? Or do you simply hate our Constitution?

How come none of this stuff is down here in Florida? Every time I want something it's in the NE and costs a bucket of money to ship.

I recently started using a paint line produced by PPG called ALK. $65-$85 a gallon, ready to spray, no reduction. I've tried it with and without a hardener (ALK201). Touch time is 30 minutes, longer with the hardener. Pot-life (paint in the gun, or closed container) is forever without the hardener; something like an hour with the hardener. So far I like it. Ready to spray (without a hardener) is a plus; pour it from the can into your gun and you're good to go.

Umm... I'm no expert on split wheels, clamps, and spoke hubs, but since there are no moving parts to wear, welding a 1/4" rod to the spacer doesn't seem like the way fix something that should not be happening. If something weakens from fatigue after 50,000 miles it probably should be replaced/repaired. Maybe that's the case with the spacer(s) getting... crushed??? But it seems like if something fits correctly after being fully seated, (and isn't a wear item) the wheels or hubs or clamps or... something ??? is weakened and stretching (studs, clamps), getting crushed (weakened spacer) or flexing ???

I'll be bobtailing for a while... and I hadn't thought about rocks and debris hitting the cab. On a different topic and question after seeing Hobert's: Shock absorbers. Did B models come with shocks? If so, how and where were they mounted?

I'm at the Mud Flap & Hanger stage for my B46 eMack and looking for pictures to get ideas. The picture below is what came with the truck: VERY basic, welded on, no lights... The new color scheme will be Tonka Truck Yellow. I'm considering three different hanger choices (all with a basic mud flap; maybe Tonka stenciled on the bottom) Old school coiled spring hanger Straight bar - round, rectangular, or oval Straight rectangular bar with three lights You guys have some pictures of your mud flaps, hangers, and hanger length? Seems like 30" long hangers would stick way out there - yes, no? - Keith

Good'ol rust. There's a sense of satisfaction when using a needle scalar - for about 20 minutes. Then you realize you have several hours of dust and dirt and paint and... But, a lot cheaper than blasting. It would work great on your heavy, scaly rust. Good on cast iron too - That's how I found multiple cracks in a rear hub. https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/34284586933/in/album-72157684558130216/

Too bad there aren't more pictures of the B models. The Divco trucks are cool too. I was considering a Divco before I bought my B46.

1953 Studebaker - brought to my shop by the original owner who bought it when he worked as an engineer at Studebaker. http://advanced-ev.com/PhotoGallery/Automotive/Studebaker/index.html

I sort of agree with no-heat - if it's a new truck. But when the whole project is considered I suggest that 50 years of rust, load-stresses, vibrations, accidents, unknown repairs and methods of repair, frame straightening with big hammers (thinning the material), lots of heat and a lot of bending force... will have a bigger impact on the material strength than localized heating of the rivet & area. Unless there is documentation, it's really hard to determine if something is heat treated or it's simply a high-strength material. Auto companies use high-strength steel and anticipate accidents and damage repair, so they make accommodations with welding guidelines. Mack Body Builder instructions also show proper welding and modifications to the frame/chassis. With repairs and restorations and with unknown history, everything thing is a comprise. Seldom is an old vehicle "correct" and unmolested.

Heat is your friend... lots and lots of heat. Hot and cool cycling the rivet will breakdown the rust - air cooling between cherry red is fine. And a hammer... a BFH (big f...ing hammer) and punch. Sandblast the frame. Or, if you have a lot of time, ear protection, and strong hands, an air "pistol needle scaler" works great on a frame. To see how much work is involved you could try Hazard Fraught, but the needles won't last long. Don't buy the cheap replacement needles. I'm not a fan of POR 15 or any rust encapsulation. If you go the POR 15 route, spray it, and two coats.

I have an 8QJ414 on my B46. Flickr photo below There was a couple of these in the Northeast area for $200 each plus shipping. I had a hub (not the 8QJ414) with what I thought was one crack - it had three cracks that I welded with a MIG welder. Cast steel, not cast iron so they weld without too much worry of cracking. It was a really poor casting that had a lot of factory welding/repair work - which gave me confidence in repairing/welding https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/34284586823/in/album-72157684558130216/