Mack Technician

Did you go completely through the 9-2 service bulletin point by point? Are you Fleet, Private or Dealership?

Replace the key switch. You checked everything else.

No problem. For as much grief as you’ve had it warrants searching. You’ll want to still be cautious and make sure it squares up well and fits naturally. The thing is a best kept secret..... I held it, sure looks right.........

Yeah, same experience here, if you use them they treat you pretty well. Had a local guy who bought a small fleet of matching auctioned trucks from them. One night he came in with a large cardboard box of random EUP’s. I was working on his engine miss. He said “Install these as needed and give me back any that don’t work. Manders gave me a box full and I turn in the ones that don’t work and pay them for the ones that do”.

25095125 $3.66 I leaned on Manders Diesel. Those guys are the best informed Mack parts men I’ve met. They’re a Mack dealership and a salvage yard so the guys at the counter have all the crossover compatibilities in their heads. There was no picture of it in the system. Bill found it listed though as a “qty 1” item on the diff breakdown.

Steer axle is the one you never skimp on. Hit a rock and now your missing 2. Plus, Someone has documented the issue and tire man will since a drop of ink puts all liability on you.

Quirky, I didn’t see it on PAI’s diagram either. The catch is the differential is under driveline and the bracket is under suspension. Somewhere in there, in parts limbo, is the spacer. If your willing to wait I’d get that number, stubbornness requires answers to be appeased. Otherwise, If you put it on the four studs and it’s a little sloppy and forgiving.......washer time.

Fascinated again by how much work got done with such little power plants.

Buy that thing!!!! Must have been a half year production. Good find. It will have all the good upgrades to cam and injection and none of the egr crud.

Happy Labor Day to the working men and women of this great nation. Lol, For once we are enjoying being too far North!!!!! Sitting up on the North Trout Lake’s lookout eating too much and listening to my daughter scream cause she slipped on a rock and fell in.

I looked up the clamp force produced by A single fine thread 5/8” grade 8 bolt. If you run it to 170 ftlbs with oiled threads it produces 20, 350 pounds of clamping force. That’s crazy. Gotta be what’s killing the studs. Get the specific OEM thickness washer from Mack. Who cares if it’s $10.

Good call, no washer (and an impact torqued bolt) adds thousands of pounds of additional internal stress to an already severe application.

Hahahaha, that would be awesome. Tell ya what, I’ll apologize and take back my cobble comment if you send me a pic of a successful 1/4 turn valve cable-controlled retrofit.

It’s a cobble, but it will work. There will come a day when the temp starts to swing cold in the morning and hot in the day. Your going to get pretty damn tired of popping your hood twice a day when you could have just replaced the failed controlled water valve and been done right.

That’s really cool. Interesting bio on him in the Amazon listing. Was in a sea rescue squadron in WW2. Is that offer to purchase books recent? Or is he talking last Christmas?

There are two bolts inside the gear window which are trying to do the work of 6 bolts. They loosen, leak out to exterior space below the window, cause a stress crack to the rim of the banjo and require a weld repair to banjo mouth. When things really go south the crack will span through the threaded holes for the hold-down bolt and now you can't repair weld it properly. Wouldn't explain your problem, but adds another visible issue to your list. Sounds like you have real head scratcher. Stop welding it, shouldn't need it, plus, sorry dude, your welds are horrible. You welded it to the 1/8" thick output cover? Change all the studs, nuts and the Diff mount bolt. When installing run the four stud nuts up slight snug then torque the carrier bolt to banjo. Loosen the four studs, retorque banjo bolt again, run all 4 stud nuts up tight and torque each to grade 8 spec. Everything has been checked, your running hard. If it keeps doing it after that convert the centers to Neoprene Severe Duty bushings. You have fresh brass on a hogged out center stub, Neoprene will resurrect the center for the span of another service life.

Click on this link ^. RED......Looks like you Aftermarket Service Bulletin is serving posterity.

Keeping mind here, it’s not about getting better heater core performance. It’s about getting better A/C which means no heater core flow. You can reverse that core and have great heat. As a general rule you inlet on the lowest point and outlet at the highest point, the dynamic behind displacing air.

That’s consistent to what Cmac and full fuel were suggesting. When you rev the engine(driving) the engine coolant circulation pressure rises forcing hot coolant into your dash core at a faster rate. Cheap fix. Change the coolant control valve and make sure it strokes full closed with your dial-dash controller.

Fan works now, but still no A/C function?

Whatcha building Mr.Wild? Yes, they factory built CV713 with Pre-AI. This is one...….Zoom in on manifold and 400 turbo. Don't believe the part where it says 4,000HP for engine......I think he means "400 HP". https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/30578431/2002-mack-granite-cv713

Dunno? Never a bulletin for that......Your writing the Aftermarket Service Bulletin right here on good'ol BMT. I'd slap a new oil sensor in.

Good price! I'm throwing the SB on for posterity.... Delta EUP O-ring.pdf

I'm throwing in on the thread for posterity. anti cap.pdf