56mercuryman

I have two EN401's and both are factory painted gold. Long but burned off though.

I have a 65 mack B42 dump that came with a EN402 with a oil cooler unit on the block and a carb govenor. I have another 59 mack B42 tractor that came with a EN401 with a carb govenor but no oil cooler. I am replacing the engine in the 65 dump with another engine I aquired and was out of a water truck. It is a EN401 and has no factory governor, or oil cooler. Question is, how important is it to put the governor and oil cooler back on the engine I am replacing in the dump truck? I don't plan on working it hard and just using it now and again, it also does not get overly hot in this climate. I did some checking and it appears the oil cooler was an option on these engines for certain applications, however not sure why all the engines did not come with a govenor. I am not overly familiar with these old gas engines, I don't want to blow it up for lack of knowledge. Any input?

Does anyone know the part number for a mack EN401 gas engine canister type oil filter? Does not matter if its OEM or aftermarket. I can"t seem to find a part number.

Does anyone recall a company in Michigan called Mid-Way Equipment, they used B model mack tractors to haul petroleum in the lower and upper peninsula? They bought several B613T in the 50's and 60's, I am looking for some history on the company and if anyone knows where any of the old macks got too...besides the crusher. I think they were actually based in Almira Michigan.

if shipping the engine I got off packer does not go according to plan, I might take you up on your offer to get it to Iowa, then I will come and get it, on my way through Minnesota, I can pickup your sleeper, sound like something you may be interested in?

my 65 b42 has those as well, my 57 b61 has fuses, not sure how those breakers work.

If its what you truley want to do and you believe you can do it, take your time and spend a little here and there, its just a project and not your life. Enjoy your projects and if you need to start over or go back to the drawing board then so be it, its all in fun. If indeed you really want to sell it for whatever reason, name your price and then we can go from there.

its the same one on my 57 b model mack.......want to sell it?

Thanks for the input and advice thus far on this issue and the others I sought, it is very much appreciated. You are correct that I don't know much about 50 year old obsolete trucks, however I have a very good knowledge of mechanics, diesel and gas engines of numerous other machines, trucks and cars. I currently do not have a service manual for either B model I currently own as I just started working on them, I have never serviced any of the components on one of these before this year, nor have I any idea about its design or its more complicated functions such as wiring or the mack engine. I am on this site to learn and to seek out advice from people who are more familiar with this particular model of mack, assuming that is what this forum site is about. I can only assume that most people who use this site are here to help and having said that I am trying to take advantage of years of their valuable experience working with and on old mack trucks. I do all my own work and when I put forth a question I don't want you or others to assume I know nothing about trucks or mechanics and am seeking answers for everything I endevour then hold the adviser responsible for the repair. I also have never said nor would I ever blame anyone for wrong advice or something that went aray as a result. Advice is free everything else costs. Again, I am not familiar with the B model macks, but I am learning fast with help along the way from both hands on and from whatever information I have researched, requested or some kind person has offered. I do appreciate all the input that anyone has added on my particular post and I try the suggestions, if I think it is worthy. I will also reply to others who post questions if I can help and I don't expect everyone to heed my advice as gospel, after all that is why this site and others like it exist, give and take. All I can ask is that if someone is willing to help me on something specific I ask and they might think it would help, than that would be great. If they don't wish to help me or anyone else for whatever reason than that is ok too. I am new on this site and am new to the old mack truck game as well. But as you say, we have to start somewhere.

ok, went out tonight and squirted in a quart of ATF, it never even sputtered, it sucked it back like an old rummy. It really did not seem to change smoke much, more or less. I then took it for a ride down the country road, it was so smokey behind me I could not see the road! It shifted nice and ran with plenty of power. You were right about the ATF coming out everywhere, it leaked and sprayed out of every crack in the exhaust pipes and smoke came out of every clamp and seam. I kept her revving and tried the brake drag, all it did was spin the rear wheels and the brakes would not hold it unless I really hit the brakes and then she stalled on me. I must admit though after the good run down the road, there seemed to be less smoke at idle. But shifting every gear gave a cloud of grey smoke like nothing I have ever seen. Any other suggestions??

I have a 65 B42 and as I was looking under the dash I see several factory wires are snipped off. Upon tracing two wires they end up at a black box or relay attached under the dash just beyond the steering column. I tested the wires and see that two are live. After putting ground to the live wires the box or relay starts buzzing with or without the key on. I have no idea what the box is, it could either be the horn relay or an air brake buzzer although there are no air lines to it. Could it be that the horn is stuck on? The horn does not work upon pushing the button. The other wires come from the heater motor and they lead nowhere. I closed them off with tape as they were sparking everywhere. I could not find any fuses, but I am told there are breakers on this year and model. Anyone know what this black relay or box is?

I have a 57 b61 with a 673 turbo, the engine has its problems and I am trying some advice about quelling some smokey exhaust. While I was looking over the engine I noticed a rubber hose coming from the back of the compressor and feeds along the side of the block behind the injector pump, the hose stops near the fuel filter canister and had a bolt in the line plugging it off, the makeshift blockage is now leaking coolant. Is this supposed to go somewhere? I assume the compressor should have coolant going into it from somewhere. Will this harm the compressor, it looks like its been there like that quite awhile. I also noticed the thermostat housing has been plugged off with some sort of epoxy on top, was there a fitting that went somewhere? Does anyone have a spare thermostat housing they want to sell, so I can put the proper hoses back on. It appears the old owner just kept plugging the lines and hoses with bolts and clamps as they sprung leaks. I am worried I will cook the engine. But.....as in my other posts I have already mentioned the engine never really gets hot and was told that is why it smokes lots. Any ideas???

Yes, it does have a cast sleeve on the turbo.

I also never checked the thermostat.....could it be that the engine is not getting hot enough......also the shutters are not working.

I forgot to mention the truck is not road worthy at the moment and I cannot really work it, I also should mention that when it runs it has a "funny" exhaust smell that smells in the cab as well, its hard to desribe the smell, almost like a burnt almond smell. Not sure what that is or perhaps that has to with the extreme smoke. does anyone know what I mean?

packer got a quote of over 1000 bucks from two shippers, way to much, got to get back to the drawing board, will try your suggestions, any one else have an idea you can email at dbmeverts@tbaytel.net or reply here.

yup, the leaky drippy is black and runny looks like burnt oil and it sprays when its revved up. I drained all the old diesel and put in fresh fuel and a filter, also put in a can of seafoam and diesel additive, runs better than it did, but the smoke is real bad especially when revved, it can sit there and idle all day and the engine never gets hot, I can put my hand on the rad and the valve cover after a few hours of idling so I know its not working hard. I see someone else mentions about having a bad turbo, this could be the reason for the smoke, it does need a good run though, the problem is that it won't pass a emissions test now with all the smoke. I would like to fix it, before I smoke out the neighbourhood.

I have a 57 B61 as you can see in my photo album, it idles nice but chugs blue at idle, when you rev it up to the governor it blows lots of grey smoke, it also smokes lots at shifts. It is a 673 with a turbo, the turbo seems to spray oil out the bottom and drips on the frame rail, it seems to have lots of power still, was just wondering what the cause of all the smoke is or if it might get worse if something is not repaired. any ideas? by the way the truck has sat about 4 years then started and only run a bit since.

hmmm, ok, i will take a look,thanks.

thanks for the reply, it appears that they are indeed mushroom type lifters and seem to be in clusters of two................judging by the pieces that fell out when I removed the inspection covers, it looks like cast from part of the inside block as well, was just wondering if these clusters were replaceable or if the engine is junk.

does anyone know how to remove the lifters from a flat head gas engine?. One is broken in pieces and has fallen out, are the units that hold them in place replaceable?