rhpaulin309

I have an reaccuring fault code concerning high speed link from ECM to engine that shuts down engine.Similar problem was an easy fix on my 99 CH, high speed cable and Deutch connector were right there with the other harnesses, but is nowhere to be found on this one. I have opened the one harness that was big enough to hold a Deutch connector following instruction from local dealer with no luck.Have they supressed the seperate high speed link and integrated it with the main harness? Pulling hard on the cable harness will allow motor to startup again so i am getting warm... Had to pull truck off of job this weekend because of this.

Ok. Seriously.2006 CX AC 460. Fan hub bearings started flying out on me on an overnight job at steel mill,took unit off the job back to the shop,removed fan hub assembly.Next morning call local dealer for new part availability ,whilewaiting to hear from them i dissassembled the unit, finally decided to take hub to local machine shop to put new bearings in. As i call back the dealer to see what they were up to they tell me they had no hub available til June...?Total repair for rebuilding the hub was 170$. Not sure what a new one would have cost but getting a replacement unit was'nt even a option ... none available...anywhere in eastern North America...Is it that rebuilding the hub is what everyone does and i was just slow to catch on or what. Had the bearings spun on the hub i may not have been able to have it rebuilt...and then i gues i would have been calling for a used one left and right...?Engine has 33000Hours,hub might be original, sould i have replaced the bearings as preventive maintenance..?

The question is'' where would the check valve be on the Oil filter manifold of a 99 E 7 E tech''..

I have notice a unusal delay in oil pressure build up at start up when i did a full service on my 99 ch with an E 7 350. as i removed my oil filters i noticed they were less than half full even though my engine il pressure eventually went up to normal opertating levels. It seem the oil is simply bypassing the filters,wich would point to an open check valve at the oil manifold. I dont have access to an e 7 manual,not sure where it would be located, my guess is it should be close to the oil manifold cause the oil pressure sensor is right above the full flow filters. Truck is parked until further notice, cant get to my local dealer till friday. will have it towed in just to be safe, unless i find the solution myself. where would the check valve be located on a 99 E 7. YES i filled up the filters before starting up the engine..I am now questionning the filters sold to me , they are mack filters, but not the same i usualy use.They are black , but not the same part number. The ones i used in the past are # 485GB3191C. Coud this be the cause.. ( Added Jan 17) Were unable to determine cause of initial delay with oil pressure buildup,( Faulty Oil filter?) Found Check valve to be sitting unevenly in its seat and replaced it. Pressure now goes up within two seconds at startup.Oil filters slowly empty themselves after sitting for a while.Replaced Filters with Donaldson #P553191.

The originals mack vents can last a long time but do require TLC depending on local conditions. I have two sets of vent that i alternate twice a year.While one is in use the other sits in a jar of brake cleaner for a while.Cheap but efficient!

Name: mack CH600 (1999) Date Added: 10 November 2008 - 03:14 PM Owner: rhpaulin309 Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

I use Howes Meaner Power Cleaner, the small bottle. more expensive per liter than most but have used it for years and found improved fuel average with it,extends life on injector nozzle.

I have used Howes Meaner Power Cleaner,the small bottle. It costs a bit more than than most but it si my favorites.Engine runs smoother with it. Also noticed extended life on injector nozzle. I live in southwestern Quebec,Canada and the refineries will put out a winter formula around mid october,what i call -40c diesel,even though the outside temperature still reaches +12Cel.in the afternoon.That fuel is great for winter but in warm weather i can tell just by the soud of the motor that i have caught a batch of -40 fuel. This said my 99 E7 still developped fuel seepage at 920 000 miles at the unit pumps, probably because of the unit pump O rings.In any case taking regular oil samples would be a good investement if you plan to keep your truck for an extended perido of time.I have seen quite a few different fleets bring in their E7 for fuel contamination in oil(more than 2%is abnormal)that is why i am ringin the alarm bell.

When was the last time the injector tips were serviced?Mack reccomands a yearly service on them.I get mine done every two year by a local injection shop. It runs me about 1200$ but always brings my fuel average way up so i see a return within a few month.Find a authorised Bosh dealer and you will have one year warranty on t hem.Servicing the injectors on an E7 is pretty cheap compared to many other makes. My Mack mechanic usually needs abouth one hour to remove all six,He then sends them to Bosh where they tests the nozzle spray pattern,rebuild and calibrate the units and send them back.I got better results dealing with an injection shop than using a mack rebuilt kit.The E7 fuel injection system is also sensitive to ULSD so i strongly suggest using a fuel additive (Howes)to protect your system. The unit pumps Will developp leaks because of ULSD and can result in dammage to the camshaft located directly underneathso,so a regular oil sampling looking for fuel contamination would be wise.Mine has 930K on it and still going strong averaging 7.5 to 8 on a reguler basis.

the best years for the E tech E 7 were from 97 to 01 .I own a 99 E 7 355/380 with 930 000 thousand miles on it and am very pleased with it.Their weak point is the injection system that can develop leaks from using ultra low sulfur diesel wthout additives to protect the system.The unit pumps o rings can leak diesel onto the camshaft located directly underneath and cause a lot of dammage if not caught early.I strongly suggest taking oil samples on a regular basis to prevent this.

The unit pumps gaskets on E7 will developp leaks when using low sulfur diesel if no additives are used, then fuel will drip directly on to the cam and it can lead to a big ol mess.

There is one sweet looking 81 cruiseliner for sale on E bay motors located just outside of Philadelphia PA.The spec are as goes 300hp 2 valve tip turbine motor , mack 12 speed,34 camelback susp. Recent repaint Black cab, red frame ,new tires all around. If i had room i woul pick it up in a minute. Dont let this one go overseas:thumb:

I own a 99 ch600 with a E7 355/380 maxicruise set up,4.11 mack diff, mounted on 24.5 tires through an eaton 13 speed.I pull a flatbed all over North america ,light and heavy loads. MY fuel average for the last seven years has been 7.93 us gal,9.3 imp gal.The CH series seem to be one of those truck that with a little TLC will go on forever. They are fairly easy to work on,the cab is one of the toughest in the business .If you can keep your foot out of it, it will make you money.Mack tranny can be fairly expensive to repair.Pulling in and out of the bush i would get a 3.90-4.11-4.33 rear end.Keep your highway speed under 60 MPH(I know that is not the norm in Florida)and you will be sitting pretty.Buying a used truck is a whole other story. I would go take a look around eastern Texas. Thers'a lot of loggers using Macks around that part of the woods.Slow and steady is the way to go these days! The E-Tech E7 series of engines with seperate unit pumps and injectors will get better fuel average and are cheaper to maintain in the long run.Simply replacing the injector tips will improve overall performance. I replace mine every two years and regain 0ne to one and a half mpg.I think the E tech started in 98, A very good engine serie.As for being underpowered, There is a very good reason you seen lot of 350/ 380 hp engines, there is a hell of a price to pay for being king of the hill with the price of diesel being what it is these days.Take note how easy it is to find a big horsepower unit for sale or on the repo lot.You do the math! Also Acert engines,2002 and up,have been plagued with problems related to antipollution devices. I would stay away from them .

I took my 99 CH back for a warranty job after having the rear crank seal replaced during a clutch replacement at 850000 miles. After about a month i noticed my clutch adjutement plate was damp with oil,then as warmer weather came along i had oil spots all the way to my drives.At this point oil was coming out from the starter bolts and flying all over the place.I left the truck with my regular shop thinking that the rear crank seal was the culprit and it would be covered by my dealership waranty.IT now appears the the leak originated somewhere between the flywheel housing and the block,the oil would then find its way into the bell housing and then fall out. I have been a regular customer of this dealership for 9 years and found their behavior to be a little strange regarding this event.My question is, can you remove the flywheel housing on an Etech ,E7engine without disturbing the rear crankshaft seal.IF I look at my parts list, the oil pan was removed along with the rear crank seal. I have little to go on" the dealer took pictures of the flywheel housing after it was cleaned but not of the area where the leak came from and that puzzles me.To close this question i will add that in the end it was a combination of broblems that lead to this leak between the rear of the block and flywheel housing.After installing the new clutch,the mechanic overtorqued one of the engine mounts bolts so that it caused some movement of the transmission. The first trip out of the shop was up to the mines up in Labrador NFL where i have to keep my foot in it all the time and by the time i got back the flywheel housing had had enough and sprung a leak and within e few weeks i had to take the whole thing appart. The mechanic that did the job doesnt work there anymore.