Casper1988

What is the amperage I'm looking for, 100?, or more. Thanks. 63$ at Mack shop, 33$ for a metal Cole jersey at the auto store.

Ok, I've been checking grounds and any connections. Spent hrs yesterday looking. I have a metal one, seems crazy it would run this hot but thanks for your answers.

I am having some electrical gremlins in my Mack. Volt meter is sporadic and also the Dynatard stops working at the same time. I have checked the fuse block, ignition switch, battery grounds, fuses, I changed the solenoid under the dash by the fuse panel and it solved my issue but the metal solenoid is getting pretty hot. Do they run hot or do I have resistance somewhere else. Could my Alternator be putting out to much?. I'm not all that competent on electrical. Thanks, any thoughts would be appreciated. Need to move wood during mud season but don't want to melt anything.

Thank You Sir, I have been searching via internet and yes, that info seems not attainable. Guess my honey will have to help with this one.

I bought a stock parking lamp ( front fender ) with the wire leads that go to the fire wall electrical junction board and wondering what # are those connections on the board. I am a one man team and hard to flip switches and run the test light at the same time. thanks. I have no schematic. I have junction boards on both sides of the firewall.

Glenn, I spent some time this a.m. and realized the arm was frozen up, pb blaster and a hammer. Got around 9/16 's at the clutch brake and 1 1/2 or a little better clutch pedal play . The test drive was good and going into first or reverse form N was very smooth. Had to let the pedal off the floor just a smidgen a couple of times then it slipped right in with no grinding. I will have this all apart at sometime when I switch to the thirteen speed and put in a new clutch, etc. Thanks.

Ok, you have me confused. I thought the linkage adjuster was for the clutch brake and the psi plate was to get the correct free play on the pedal.

Well, I will try to be descriptive. I must be doing something wrong . Can't seem to get that 1/2 to 5/8 " brake clutch clearance. I undo the 3/4 " wrench lock nut and turn the square head bolt clockwise and nothing happens ( it is bottomed out, locknut back as far as I can get it. ). It stays at 3/8" space. could the first sleeve on the cross shaft be maxed in the half moon which it is preventing any movement, do I need to pull that and move it a few notches on the cross shaft so when turning the square head bolt I get some movement and that will give me my 1/2" spacing. That half moon piece has a 9/16 head on it that locks the two halves together on the cross shaft. I am a little dyslexic so its kinda confusing down under there. I have the free play on the pedal at 1 1/2" to 2", that was easily done by turning the adjusting bolt clockwise on the psi plate. Need some help here, need to deliver wood but don't want to tear up my new clutch brake. I can only push the pedal to about three inches from the floor, Thats no good, like to have that be one inch and if the space was 1/2" that would be maybe right. Thanks all,

Oh ya, what is correct pedal play and measurement from brake clutch to the throw out face. Is it 1/2". Mine has 1 1/2" pedal and just under 1/2" at brake and throw out . I do see how to adjust the clutch. Mine has the bolt you press in and turn either way to get the correct measurement.

Got it out with air chisel, it was no fun but the job is done. The hardened steel collar riding on the input shaft had a hard rockwell point as it dulled tools quickly. I would do another the same way, just to much oiley residue for my liking for torches. The two piece went in slick and really made a world of difference from N getting it in gear. Thanks all.

finally got a chance to look and would say that my smallest 3" right angle cut off is out and torches ain't for me so I am driving over to a friends shop to take it out with an air chisel an some sharp auto body tools. It sure is a miserable spot to get into.Hopefully it will all be over by noon.

Looks like the torch will be the quickest, saw some posts on you tube last night. I have a small tip for the cutting torch and will have a hose on hand and some damp rags placed in there strategically. Kinda like welding in the belly pan of the skidder, a go for it moment.

With lots of grease and oil I will pass on the torch option. Not sure how you would keep it still to use the impact tool. How about a cheap long 1/2" extension with a groove ground into it to twist the old brake in two. I did see the two piece brake from Haldex. Looks like a fun job!!

Is there a way to change out the clutch brake without taking the tranny out. Took the cover off today at the bottom of the bell and was looking at what I believe to be a nasty clutch brake and the throw out bearing holder. My truck is not wanting to get into gear all that great from neutral. Figured I would replace the brake and adjust the clutch which I have know clue how to do. Need some advice. I will be changing out this tranny at some point but not soon. Thanks

A big thanks to all those who responded to lots of questions while sorting out my truck these last few months on this site. The knowledge here is very practical and tried and true. Mom always said" Proof is in the Pudding" Thanks, A valid Mass inspection sticker. And I will add, a very thorough inspector.

Thank you Mr Hancock. I could wire off the switch I suppose. Think I will start with a fresh switch anyways. I am involved in another project with the old girl. A brake job turned into bearings again. they must be the original bearings ( 116,000 original miles ) cause the inner bearing was so loose she fell apart on disassembely. Inner bearing keeper was stuck to the spindle bad and required a porta-power to pop it. The seal was on there good to. Spindle was fine after clean up.

I am very close to getting my truck sorted out and have to finish a few minor things for inspection. One being a back up light to pass , I see the switch on top of the tranny ( 2070 ) maxi-torque and see the two wires coming off and the go back towards the engine and Into a harness up to the firewall. Very hard to follow. Is there a schematic or should they coincide with a # on the connection board on the firewall. I haven't broke out the test light yet but will soon to determine if the switch is working. Thanks .

Thats good info, shafts are 2" with a 1810 yoke. the truck came from southern Maryland and we went down did a preliminary check and liked the fact it was straight and clean with a good frame. Mostly road worthy, the owner did a few minor things for our road trip and there ya have it.. Went back down threw a farm plate on it and drove the old girl home. That was a long day, but worth it.

I love looking at older iron, no worries. Gets the day started right.

a Also wondering about the Lucas additive, Is that stuff used alot in the trucking world or just a personnel thing. Thanks.

That was my next question assuming this is a 9513 Tranny rated at 950. I think the 300L motor has 1100 or so ft/lb's at 1750 rpm's. I think with a easy driver like me it would be fine. I tend to be on the cautious side as I turn my own wrenches on my stuff. Everybody is there own man and does what they think is right, glad this site is here cause the info is helpful to me. Out the door to go make some money with my old truck. Happy Friday all.

As I said, the truck is paid for so other than occasional maintenance and sorting stuff out to my liking its making me money everytime I use it.

Well , on my budget a Mack made sense. Strong, ready for work, dependable and someone like me can fix stuff on it. . This truck has been a life changer for me. Go Team Mack. I tend to like old school anyways.

Finally got it together this weekend. New seal, races, bearings, drum and shoe and spring kit. The log truck stanchions came in handy for the chain fall. I am a 1 man team and it worked slick. No leaks so I would say that ones done. Guess I will start checking the others when time allows. thanks for the input all.

Sounds like it could be an ok thing for around here. I live in hill country and 45 mph to 55 mph when rolling is my average speed. I rarely find myself going 55. Its the step increase and decrease that is tough on hills in this tranny ( 2070 ). So now I will look at ratios of a 9513 rto compared to the 2070 and see what it entails. Looks like the pto pump bolts on the bottom and would be fine as this fuller wouldn't hang as low as the Mack tranny. I will not be changing out rears as this is not an everyday use truck and cant' justify that. I really appreciate the response as the truck stuff is new to me.