Mack log truck

I have been fighting an issue with my 1995 CL 713, E7 427 currently Vmac1. A few years ago had the FIC module go bad and the truck would shut off intermittently with no warning and throw codes 6-2 and 6-3 (it was like that from the day I bought it). I putba new FIC module in it and immediately solved the issue, now it's doing the same thing and all signs lead to my FIC module has the same issue, it ran fine for 3 years, about 1000hrs(part time truck). The mack dealer is looking into converting from Vmac1 to Vmac2, has anyone here done it? Is it "easy"? I don't want to keep throwing FIC modules at this thing.... Thank you for any input.

Jojo, the starter relay is just a 3 post intermittent 12v relay you can buy at an auto parts store or should it have specific specs?

Hey jojo, I fixed those two damaged wires. When I cut them to repair and basically removed power to the fic module I turned the key on to see what codes I would get and got both blink codes 6-2 & 6-3, just like I do when thr truck shuts off. Soldered everything back together and it shut off again this morning when I was sitting in the truck. The electronic Malfunction light came on, I sat there for about 15-20 sec and the light went out and it fired up. It must be in that circuit? The only time I have ever gotten those two codes is when I cut those power wires and when I removed the fuse that sends power to the fic module. Any ideas of what I could try? I pulled out the shutdown relay that is between the fic module and the fuel rack actuator, turned the key on and that didn't throw a code so I don't think I am losing power to the fuel rack actuator. this has me scratching my head... could be a pin at the fic module connector or in the fic module... I don't want to keep throwing modules at it, I don't think Mack is going to help me at all with the fic module.

Idle operation temp. @700rpm it's at 20psi @1450rmp, 55mph it is between 40-45psi oil pressure

Not to change topics but I was under the truck and noticed some coolant on the surface of the lower tank and dripping off. If I pull the radiator can just a new lower tank be installed without getting to complicated? I can't tell for sure if it's coming from the gasket or coming through the metal but the lower tank is pretty rusty.

If that's a fuel line it must not be leaking because it's oil that i see, so must be from the valve covers? It starts great no matter how long it sits or 5-10 degree Temps. It has always started great, little bit of blue haze out of the exhaust but doesn't smoke once it's warm or under load.

I'll do oil changes more often, 2/3 of the hrs are @ 1,900hrs while running the log loader but I have no problem changing oil. And yes the steering boxes leak. It leaks oil at the small tube between the two valve covers, I'd like to fix that, what exactly is that doing?

I do oil changes on my diesel engines every 250hrs. I shoot for 200-250hrs but usually ends up nearer to 250.

Thank you again, hopefully this will solve my issue. 🤞

I have not touched the engine and i dont know the history. I bought it 6 years ago when it had 19,000hrs and have put about 2,000hrs and about 10,000 miles on it. It starts good, has a little blueish smoke when it's cold but doesn't blow smoke under load as far as I can tell while operating. If there is "upkeep engine maintenance" I can do or have a mechanic look into that aren't huge expences I'd like to pursue them.

Under the heat shrink it's 2 wires, one goes to fuse and the other goes to the engine shutdown relay in the fuse box

Curious what your guy thoughts are on this amount of blowby. 1995 cl713 e7 427. It's a log truck so gets quite of loader time running around 1900rpm. Currently shows 21,100hrs. Has around 60psi oil pressure at startup idle, slightly under 20psi oil pressure at 170-180deg idle. Little bit of oil hase coming out of the tube. Thanks in advance 20220224_114918.mp4

I just discovered this, Crack in both wires that come from the fuse box and power the fic module. What do you recommend for the best repair on these wires?

I took the sensor on the bell housing out. It was adjusted properly, I wiped off the tip because it was a little gummy. Here's my injection pump

I appreciate it, ill see how everything looks tomorrow.