HK Trucking

Worn ring & pinion, worn bull gears, or clearances set wrong will cause Mack rears to be noisy. .

Nice! Now we need a video with sound! .

Yup, very neat with nice attention to detail. .

That's where I first got the idea, from Kenny's B81, back when Earl Serdy owned it when it was new. I remember that B81 when it was brand new in 1966 (I was 10 years old then), every time I saw it I was mesmerized!!!! .

That's the relief valve you're hearing and it's doing it's job by preventing over pressurization. The real problem is that your air pressure governor is not kicking out the compressor at 120 psi the way it should be. .

Did it look too Christmas'y on my RB in the photo? When I had B models I used the same color scheme. Red is the opposite of green in the spectrum. Contrast is good. .

My preference has always been Mack red hubs (PPG 72182 red) and white or light grey rims, with silver clamps & lug nuts>

Hre's another story on it with 58 photos taken by a photography student who just happened to be stuck in traffic there when it happened: http://www.myfox8.com/news/wghp-photo-truck-on-train-tracks-100514,0,7010229.story The driver was indeed trying to get it off the tracks, but blew the driveshaft out of the tractor.

Yes Glenn, I agree with you. I understand how the 3 speed rear setup worked. What I was questioning was the post made by b6133994, as that post did not make sense to me based on what I know about the 3 speed rears. .

Rob, was that a diesel Rabbit or a gas Rabbit? .

Far - out, man!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like......wowwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!! .

At the very least, the transmission needs a bearing kit and probably a complete overhaul. Probably a problem in the low range side in the back box. Adjust your offer to purchase accordingly. .

I don't believe so. "Locked out"? Please explain. Also, your "intermediate" and "High" both say the same thing: "one rear in high the other locked out". How would you get 2 different "speeds" with the same combination? .

The "20 speed" would be thr TRQ720, those had more overdrive on 5th, so you could actually use all 3 splits in 5th if you wanted to. I've seen the TRQ7210 referred to as the 14 speed quad box, but I owned one of those in a 1962 B613T, and drove one in a B61SX, and they shift the exact same way as the TRQ7220, which is known as the 18 speed quad box. The TRQ7210 and the TRQ7220 have some miniscule differences in various ratios, but I could never tell the difference when shifting one or the other. .

It's common, but there should always be one of those plastic spacers between the steel & aluminum wheels to prevent galvanic corrosion between the 2 dissimilar metals. Actually, when running aluminum wheels on the inside, one of those plastic spacers should be used between the aluminum wheel and the iron brake drum too. .

Looks to me like he didn't have the spacers in the gooseneck and the trailer got hung up on the tracks because it didn't have enough clearance. Once that happens you're pretty much screwed if a train approaches before you have time to put the PTO in gear and get out there and use the hydraulics to jack up the trailer and get unstuck. .

Rob, you could market that stuff as "Iron Enriched" Peanut Butter. .

Looks like someone didn't bother to read all the replies.

Yeah, I've left 'em off before too, not a big deal, makes it easier to shove a grease gun hose up in there every week to grease the throwout bearing. .

Was the clutch brake (or pieces of it) laying in the bottom of the housing when you pulled the bottom cover? Or do you run it without the bottom cover? It sounds from your description like it is definitely not on the shaft. All those clutch brakes that fit a 2" input shaft with a pull type clutch are pretty much generic, not specific to a T2180. .

I've used the snap together clutch brakes successfully, never had one "unsnap" while in use. The ones with the allen screws just require a "allen wrench" type socket and enough extensions to reach up in there and tighten it with a ratchet. .

The clutch brake is completely gone, without a trace? Actually if that's the case you're a lucky man, usually they just come apart in several pieces and then it just sits there dangling on the input shaft but not doing any good, in which case it's time to get out the torch and surgically remove the old clutch brake from the input shaft. Not a fun job, and real easy to burn the input shaft seal if you're not careful. But, since it's completely gone, I'd suggest just going to your friendly neighborhood truck parts store and getting a 2 piece clutch brake. No transmission removal necessary, just put it on the input shaft, snap the 2 halves together and adjust the linkage for the proper squeeze. They also make 2 piece clutch brakes that screw together once you put them on the input shaft, those are a little harder to install, but they also work well, and it's a hell of a lot easier that pulling the transmission and putting it back in. .

Whether it has an air lockout doesn't matter, it's still the same cam & wedge (peanut) type power divider which will clunk if there is too much difference in tire diameter from front drive axle vs. rear drive axle. .

Or post # 3 in this thread: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=13491 .

The trolley valve is used to apply the trailer service brakes independent of the tractor service brakes. On straight trucks not set up to pull a trailer, the trolley valve applies the drive axle service brakes. That "wet/dry" flipper cuts down the pressure to the steer axle brakes, same as that control in your B model, just that it's not variable like the older type. .