HK Trucking

Sounds like you've got an Eaton Fuller trans that's filled with synthetic lube. If he has a Mack T200 series trans it'll be the large plug on the passenger side of the case. .

Propagation.

All those dumpsters sitting between the trees may have been filled with jugs of 'shine. Tom should have checked that while he was there. .

It's been a long long time since I messed with one of those, but I think there is supposed to be a 3/4 inch (roughly) hex nut screwed onto that threaded part on top, and then you put a wrench on that nut to turn and clean. .

Was there a "still" back there in the woods too?

Rowdy, don't forget the "Mack Rule" about installing drive tires when you've got a Mack power divider: Measure the tires and keep all 4 of the biggest ones on the curb side, and the 4 smaller ones on the road side. Putting all 4 new (or newer) tires across 1 drive axle while leaving 4 worn down tires across the other drive axle is an invitation to power divider "clunking", and premature wear of the "peanuts" in the power divider. .

Where I work we have several trucks with the Haulmaxx rear suspension, and it has nowhere near the articulation of the camelback, so it's more likely to allow one wheel to lose contact with the ground when off road on uneven terrain. .

Yes, the Maxitorque 5 & 6 speeds were triple countershaft transmissions as opposed to the single countershaft of the 72/ 722 series of which the quad box was a member. That article you quoted also references the Maxidyne engines, which had an operating range of 1200 to 2100 RPM. Although the Maxidyne & Thermodyne shared the same block and many other parts, the Thermodyne was not designed to be lugged down below 1500. I have in the past transplanted Maxidyne engines into quad box equipped trucks with good results, but Mack never offered a Maxidyne engine backed by a quad box from the factory.

Those compound shifter jam ups happen when the bottom end of the stick gets worn down to the point that the stick can get caught between the shift rails when shifted "horseshoe" style. Easy fix, just take out the stick, weld up the end of it, then grind it down to the original dimensions, re install the stick and no more jam ups. It's always the stick that wears down since the rails are a harder steel than the stick.

Relax Ernie!!!!!!!!!!!! The point I was trying to make is that with those old engines they must be kept in the 1500 to 2100 range when pulling. Of course with an empty truck lots of gear combinations can be omitted and the engine will still be able to accelerate without lugging, but as a former quad box driver I'm sure you know as well as I do that a loaded truck in those east coast hills requires most of the gear combinations in a quad box to be used properly.

The thing is, it's impossible to keep a Thermodyne engine in it's proper operating range of 1500 to 2100 RPM if you just shift it like a 5 speed. Lugging a Thermodyne below 1500 will ensure it's early demise. That was the reason those transmissions were used behind those engines. Once you get the hang of it, it's posible to shift it very smoothly, just about like an automatic, both upshifting and downshifting, one handed or two handed. .

For dump truck use, Mack Camelback is superior to any other suspension out there. .

Where are you located? If you're in WI I could give you contact info for the tire & rim expert that helps me on such matters. .

Well actually, the R611T denotes that it is an R600 single axle tractor with a ENDT 673 engine, however I have my doubts that it would be a 1985 model with that engine designation. As stated, the "S" suffix would denote a tandem axle chassis, and "SX" would denote a tandem axle severe service chassis. If the truck in question was a severe service single axle, then it would be a R611X. A 1985 should be a R685T, a R686T, a R688T, R612T, etc.

You're really lucky it happened there and not while you were jammin' down the highway at 70 MPH! .

Rob, was that the little red Pontiac "half & half" car that you were driving when you stopped by here last summer? .

Reminds me of that old joke: Whats the first sign of AIDS? Severe pounding in the rear. .

Some days I could thread a needle with a RGN or dump trailer, and some days it just ain't happening! .

Congrats on the new arrival! Was he born with a wrench in his hand? .

If you have the stamped steel valve covers (E6 2 valve), then it's possible someone overtightened them in the past, causing the covers to become distorted so they do not fit tight against the gaskets even when the bolts are bottomed. If the covers are squashed & distorted, find another set of good ones at a junkyard. Also, with that setup, do not use silicone gasket sealer on the gaskets because it makes the gaskets slippery, causing the gaskets to "shit out" from under the cover when tightened. I've found that it works best to set the clean dry valve covers upside down on the bench, apply some 3M weatherstrip adhesive to the gasket surface, then place the gasket on the cover making sure it is properly placed and securely stuck to the weatherstrip adhesive. Once you've done this, let the covers sit for awhile so the adhesive "cures" a bit. If the engine has Jake spacers do the same with the bottom side of them. Then install the covers, tightening them enough to seal, but not too much, as that will distort them.

Probably burned off the fuel that was still in the lines and the pump gallery. Was the throttle linkage jammed in the "wide open" position? Doesn't sound like the rack is stuck, because with a stuck rack the shutoff control will have no effect. .

Happy Birthday to both of you gentlemen!!!!!!!!!! .

If you can move the trunnion stand up to that other set of holes and get the proper wheelbase that's great, if not, just move the trunnion to the desired location, drill new holes and bolt it in. After you're done, install bolts in all the unused holes in the frame where the trunnion formerly was located, and tighten them securely. That helps prevent cracks from occurring. .

You can postpone it's demise by making the first few range shifts of the day between 3rd lo and "lo" hi range instead of from 4th to 5th as you normally would. This allows the shift to happen at a lower speed and there is less strain on the range shift synchro that way. Then once it's warmed up, you can resume shifting it the normal way. The key is to prevent that severe grinding and jamming that eventually will wear the teeth down to the point that it jumps out of hi range when you put the power to it. Glenn, no I did not have plates.

The range shift synchro has taken a dump and the teeth are stripped off the high side from excessive grinding. That's epidemic on the Mack T2090, T2130, and T2180 transmissions. You can replace the range shift setup without removing the entire trans, just pull off the back section. Don't tell the seller that, just tell him the trans is junk, and negotiate the price accordingly. .