HK Trucking

Mornin' Rob. In my own shop I used to use Diesel fuel to wash parts, then after washing with fuel I'd spray the parts with Brake Cleaner (either the chlorinated or non chlorinated type) to eliminate the fuel residue on the parts. When the diesel fuel got dirty, I'd dump it in with my waste oil, which was then donated to various shops around the area which used it in their waste oil furnaces. Where I work now we have our own parts washer which is serviced & refilled by "Crystal Clean" or something like that (much cheaper than safety clean). They empty and refill it about once a month, the solvent seems to have the same properties as Safety Clean. Maybe you could visit some of your friends that have a Safety Clean or similar parts washer and draw off a few gallons occasionally, then take it to your shop and dump it in your parts washer. After a few such occasions, you'd have a machine full of good solvent. On a side note, back in the old days, out east, where I worked then, we had a Safety Clean parts washer. After hours the guys would hang around the shop and indulge in a few adult beverages. Turned out someone was using the parts washer for a piss pot, so after that there was a sign posted on it: "I don't wash parts in your toilet, so don't piss in my parts washer". .

I'd suggest putting spring brakes on all 4 drives if you have enough room for the larger cans. Speaking of tires, those Dunlop drive tires I mentioned a while back are "SP431". .

Yup, that's a generator mount pump alright! It's apparently a different brand than your original, but should work OK. Put a new coupling in when you install it, I had one let go once on my B81, and it's not fun to drive a power steering equipped truck with the power steering inoperative, due to the steering box ratio being much higher with power steering. .

Mornin' Rob. While you're in there check the brake cams for looseness in the bushings, if it seems that the bushings (or cams) are worn now is the time to fix that too. You can end up with a lot of lost motion at brake application if the cams are loose in the bushings, leading to poor braking even with new shoes & drums. What type of wheel seals are you putting in there? Hopefully the C/R "Scotseal Classic". .

You hang the bellhousing, put the bolts in just snug enough sou you can adjust it, then dial indicate it so it's concentric with the crank, tighten the bolts (use loctite), then ream the dowel pin holes and insert them. The reason for drilling & reaming to an oversize is that the dowel pin holes in the housing and the block may not be perfectly lined up once your housing is dial indicated to that engine block. .

Yup! If it's all f*cked up, just walk away!!!!!!! .

Clear. Even the early DM R & U models had the clear "parking lights". In 1968 they discontinued the parking lights and started using the amber side marker lights on the fenders, as did all truck manufacturers that year due to federal requirements. .

They were excellent machines, usually had the DT401 IH diesel with powershift trans, and they sound really nice with a straight pipe. The weak link was the transmission. Always fully decelerate by using the decelerator pedal and make sure the machine is not moving when shifting from forward to reverse or vice versa. Shifting at full RPM's without decelerating will cause the clutch packs in the transmission to go ballistic very quickly $$$$$$$$$$$$$. .

I'll second that. Keeping the bellhousing true and tight is critical beacause a loose or misaligned bellhousing will result in tearing the center out of the clutch disc or discs depending on whether you have a single disc or double disc clutch. .

64 sounds about right for the shutters. The 62 B613T that I had was equipped with the old type shutters, and the B61's that I drove for Richard Morris (64, 65, 66 models) all had the new type shutters with the smooth slats. .

There's a check valve in there to prevent drainback, however I have seen cases where the check valve would stick open and allow the oil to drain back to the pan when shut down.

The single disc clutch will hold it just fine as long as it's not driven by a driver thats hard on clutches. Been there & done just what you're proposing to do.

Bummer. .

What about if you're an "infidel"? Do you get 72 recaps instead???? .

Trouble is, I'm sure there's an even more "assbag" cop taking his place this year. .

Blasphemous Posting! 500 post penalty!

I've owned 2 DM's that had 2070's with 5.73 rears and 1 DM that had a 2070 with 4.64 rears all on 11R22.5 rubber. The 5.73's were a little on the slow side on the highway, but great for off road hauling. The 4.64 ratio was way too high for a 2070, on a level road when loaded you had to start off in 2nd lo, then split to 1st direct in order to avoid slipping the clutch. 1st direct was too high to start off with the 4.64's. Regarding the overdrive, a .60:1 overdrive is also known as a 40% overdrive, as Maxville stated. With .60:1 the input shaft makes .60 of a revolution to 1 revolution of the output shaft, therefore the output shaft is turning 40% of a revolution more for each revolution of the input shaft, hence the "40% overdrive" designation. I've always referred to it as .60, or whatever the ratio that is being used, but some refer to it inversely as the percentage of overdrive. .

A .69 overdrive in the 7210 vs a .70 overdrive in the 7220, and a couple of other miniscule differences in ratios of various other gears. You can't tell any difference in the way it shifts compared to a 7220. I had a TRQ 7210 in that B613T with the turbo 711 that I made into a dump truck in 1981, and the company I worked for back when I was a teenager had a B61 10 wheeler dump truck with a TRQ7210. .

48.3 MPH @ 2100 RPM with a TRQ7210 quad box (.69:1 overdrive) 7.88:1 rears on 10:00x20 or 11R22,5 rubber. .

All of the modern electronically controlled truck engines have no mechanical connection between the accelerator and the fuel system, just wires. There is a potentiometer type switch actuated by depressing the accelerator which tells the computer to accelerate, decelerate or idle depending on accelerator pedal position compared to current engine rpm. With certain electrical issues this system can allow an engine to not respond to accelerator input from the driver, either accelerating or decelerating unexpectedly. .

If it was mine I'd leave the quad box as is, and swap out the 4.17 diffs for a set of 5.73's, and set it up so it'll work the right way.

Happy Birthday Rob. I know it's a time of celebration but try not to overeat today and gain back that 1/2 pound that you lost since the first of the year!!!

From what I've seen and heard, the majority of those "truck driving schools" are little more than CDL mills designed to take your money while giving you just enough knowledge and experience to be a danger to yourself and others. The one exception to that is Fox Valley Tech here in WI. Their course is very thorough and no one graduates with a CDL unless they know what they're doing. They even have a skid pad to teach slippery road driving techniques. So, yes, It would probably be better to get some sort of job where you're working around trucks and "earn while you learn", from people who know what they're doing. .

If he's got 4.17 or 3.87 rears as most of the TRL107, 1076, 1078 equipped trucks did, then the T2050 will not be geared low enough in 1st or reverse to get moving without slipping the shit out of the clutch. If memory serves correctly, the TRL1078 would be 8.59 in 1st gear and the T2050 is 5.24 or something like that. The .60 overdrive of the T2050 would put the truck over 100 mph @ 2100 in high gear, also not necessary or desirable. The T2050 was usually used with 5.05 or 5.55 rears.

Why did somebody put a 671 Detroit in your B61? Or did you mean "ENDT673"? I didn't bother doing the calculations, but on 10:00x20 or 11R22.5 rubber I'd suspect about 48 - 50 MPH @ 2100. .