HK Trucking

Make sure the air line runs consistently downhill from the compressor to the dryer with no "dips" where water could accumulate and freeze while the compressor is not pumping. .

Grease is cheaper than parts, and it is much easier to install. .

Hi Rob. We've been running a lot of Kumho KRD01 drive tires with no problems, also some Dunlop drives, but I can't recall the number right now, it's SPxxx something. These are in 11R22.5. .

I always greased all my stuff once every 5 to 6 working days, and where I work now we try to do the same. As Rowdy said, dump trucks need more frequent lubrication to live a long and happy life. .

In it's original configuration it should have had a 12 volt positive ground system with a series parallel switch to send 24 volts to the starter when starting. To tell if it is presently pos. ground or neg. ground, using a test light, ground the wire from the test light to the frame of the truck, then put the test light probe on the bat. cable connections at the batteries. If touching the positive terminal causes the light to come on, then it's neg. ground, if touching the probe to the neg. terminal causes the light to come on then it's positive ground. .

Otherdog Wrote: Yes Tom, that is the transmission I'm talking about, but it must be the Australian variation, as the shift diagram in that brochure shows the compound on the left, and the main on the right. All the ones I've driven have the compound on the right and the main on the left. .

You are correct on the 2 stick Fullers. I've also seen the 2 stick Spicer 4x4's and a lot of Spicer air shift 4x4's. In 1978 I acquired a 1957 Autocar which had a 20C75 Fuller 5x4 trans in it behind a 190 Cummins. It was a "married" box similar to a Mack Quadruplex except that the main shifter was on the left and the compound was on the right. Since I was used to shifting Mack quad boxes, I bent the levers around so that the compound lever curved to the left around the main lever, then bent the main lever to the right so that it was just like shifting a Mack quad box. The history of that truck was that it originally had a Fuller 5 speed and a Fuller 3 speed auxiliary (which came along with the truck in the deal when I bought it), the 20C75 had originally been in a 59 White behind a 220 Cummins, and was installed in the A car shortly before I bought it. I ran the Autocar as a tractor for a while pulling a trailer dump, then put a dump body on it and sold it less than a year later because it wasn't a Mack. .

http://www.adelmans.com/atruckparts.html .

The hubs would have to be changed to go from stud pilot to hub pilot (Unimount). The bolt pattern is the same, and stud pilot rims will slide onto Unimount hubs, however, since the stud holes and center hole are a larger diameter than a Unimount, there is nothing to "pilot" the rim to the hub and it will not run true or stay tight for very long.

Sorry to hear of the demise of your quad box. Did you check Adelmans Truck Parts in Canton OH? They used to always have a few quad boxes laying around, not sure if that's the case anymore. Regarding the 6 speed swap, if your referring to a TRXL 107 or TRXL1071 Mack 6 speed, those transmissions are direct drive in high gear, so with the 6 speed in high gear your top speed @ 2100 RPM will be the same as it was with your quad box in 4th direct @ 2100 RPM. .

Where did he say anything about a Spicer transmission? Actually the Mack 7 speed T2070 was a single stick transmission with R and 1 thru 5 on the stick and a hi/lo air shift button on the knob which was supposed to be used in 1st or 2nd for a total of 7 forward speeds and 2 reverse. The later T2070D had 1 thru 5 on the stick and rev, hi & lo on the air shift knob with a total of 7 forward gears and 5 reverse gears Incorrect. With the 2 stick 6 speed, lo on the compound is used with the main in 1st when working in severe conditions off road or starting off on a steep hill. For on road use you leave the compound in direct and shift only the main. The ratios do not work out for split shifting, except that on the TRXL1071 you can 2 hand split it from 2nd lo to 1st direct, but that is not recommended by Mack, it's just a technique that was discovered by drivers that drove them daily.

Actually, 1987 was the last year for the 2 stick 6 speed TRXL107 or TRXL1071. The "main" stick on the left will be a standard 5 speed pattern, and the "compound" stick on the right will have : Direct to the right and back, lo to the right and forward, and reverse to the left and forward. You do not split shift this transmission. Basically, 1st on the main and lo on the compound is for severe starts off road or on a steep hill, other than that you leave the compound stick in direct and just shift the main like a regular 5 speed. If you're used to shifting a 9 speed, be aware that there is about 900 rpm between each gear on the main, so you'll have to let the RPM drop more for each upshift, or raise the RPM more for each downshift, compared to a 9 speed. For reverse, you put the compound in reverse and use any one of the 5 gears on the main. 1st reverse is pretty much too slow to be of any use, 2nd and 3rd reverse are the usual gears I always used with that setup, 4th and 5th are too fast unless you're empty and have to back up a long distance quickly. I've outlined the basics for you, there are a few tricks you'll learn for yourself after driving it awhile. DO NOT "Jam" the compound into reverse while the truck is moving, those transmissions had a habit of taking a tooth off the reverse idlers if they were jammed into reverse too roughly. .

Barry posted the paint code for the B model interior green a while back. Here is the link: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?app=tutorials&article=45 .

Sounds like maybe the "rebuilder" used a compound countershaft drive gear which was from a different model quad box than the one it was put into, such as a TRQ 7210 vs a TRQ7220. They look pretty much the same to the naked eye, but if they're intermixed, the howling noise in the higher gears is the result. That said, I've also experienced that howling noise in 4th hi & 5th hi with some hi mileage 7220's that were all original, but "well worn". .

I'd suggest a TRTXL1070B Mack 12 speed. It will still have plenty of low end reduction when you put the air shift front box into deep reduction and the stick in 1st gear, yet it is also overdrive in 5th hi. Plus,you can split each gear if you need or want to. .

I have not ever put an engine with spin on filters in a B75,however,if I was doing the job, I'd "test fit" the engine in the truck and see exactly what the deal is with filters vs. steering shaft. Then you can see just what needs to be done, if anything, without resorting to speculation.

Sounds to me like he's not talking about a luberfiner, but a full flow/bypass Mack filter, also known as the "duplex clarifier", that would have the large oil lines running to it. I've seen those occasionally mounted remotely on the outside of the truck, usually on the frame rail just behind the cab.

He's got 'puter troubles, but he posted a message on Facebook and asked me to share it with y'all. And I would also like to take this opportunity to wish all of you here a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. .

Nope. If it was a V*lv* hoe, I would suggest putting it in water deep enough to submerge the top of the boom when it's all the way up.

The ENDT 864 was a twin turbo Thermodyne, I can't recall the HP of that one. The ENDT 865 was a single turbo 325 HP. Maxidyne. The ENDT 866 was a single turbo 375 HP Thermodyne.

That should be a ENDT866 375 HP V8 if it's a DM 897. .

That's funny, but that's abusive to sit that machine in water up over the tracks like that. .

Don't need none of those, just send money!!!!!!! .

Usually when the gauge is stuck on "full" there is a short in the wire from the sender to the gauge, or the sender itself is shorted or defective. Take the wire off the sending unit (make sure the terminal is not touching any metal while it's disconnected) then turn the key on and check the gauge. If the gauge is still stuck on full with the sender disconnected, there is a short circuit in the wiring. If the gauge is reading empty with the sender disconnected, then the sender is shorted or defective and needs to be replaced. .

The Problem is in the headlight circuit which is separate from the circuits that power the taillights marker lights & dash lights. I've been reading about your ongoing problems with that truck for some time now, does your state have a "lemon law"? It sure seems that truck is broke down more than it's working. That makes it pretty tough to make a living, and headlight failure out on the highway like that could result in disaster.