HK Trucking

Sounds familiar. I joined Facebook about 2 months ago after it was suggested by my daughter (25 years old) and after seeing that BMT has a Facebook page. I've found a lot of people on there that I knew years ago and had lost touch with. Now we gotta get Rob to join! .

Hi Rob. If the extreme pressure additives are that harmful to bronze, then what about the bronze thrust washers in the rears? I think someone was BS'ing you on that. The Mack service literature from back in the day called for 90 weight gear lube in the Mack transmissions, and all of them that I ever serviced got that type of oil, or later on, 85w90. Herb.

He was driving a Peterbilt in it. .

Silicone form a gasket - otherwise known as the "blue shit", and do what I said and put some all around the O ring and on the face of the housing where the cover fits up against. If you put threadlocker on those bolts, you'll be sorry next time you have to remove the cover! .

50W is for Eaton Fuller transmissions. 85w 90 is for Mack transmissions. .

The Cummins KTA 1150 was a 600 HP engine back in the 70's, although it did displace 152 Cu. inches more than the Mack E9 V8. .

A 237 pump should be set at 2310 RPM (no load) from the factory, 2100 RPM under full load. Are you sure your throttle linkage is pulling the pump all the way open when the pedal is floored? .

An ENDT675 is a 237 HP Maxidyne. An END673 is a 170 HP Thermodyne, or if it's an END673P it's a 187 HP Thermodyne. An ENDT673 is a 205 HP Thermodyne, An ENDT673B is a 225 HP Thermodyne, and an ENDT673C is a 250 HP Thermodyne. .

If you'd rather not install a heater in the block, you can use a 1500 watt tank type engine heater piped into the heater hoses. Connect it properly so you're circulating the hot water thru the engine not thru the heater core. There are also engine heaters available which can be installed in the bottom radiator hose. .

There's nothing like the smell of burning tires in the morning. .

That gear case on the front reminds me of a Cat motor. .

Yup, that's pretty much the same bottom end on those engines as the old 673 170 HP models, with the exception of those main bearing cap braces that were added once the 285 HP mark was reached. Connecting rods and wrist pins are much beefier though.

.....And you should also put a film of silicone gasket sealer all around the O ring and on the face of the diff housing before installation. I have never put one of those on "dry" with no sealant. .

Sorry, haven't been on here much the last day or so, we had a big snowstorm. Yes, you should be able to turn the input shaft with one axle out, you should feel some roughness as the pins & cams do their thing though. I say put in a new axle and try it, if something else is broke you'll find out then. A few years ago I did fix a CL that simultaneously broke an axle AND the thru shaft, so that can happen. .

The Mack power dividers with air lock out are also the peanut type, it's just that they can be locked up with an air operated sliding clutch, therefore unless the air lock out is engaged, it performs the same as a conventional Mack "peanut" power divider. .

Maybe the through shaft is broke too. .

Take out the axle on the opposite side and insert a long piece of pipe or round stock and push the broken piece out of the side gear. I made a "trough" out of a piece of angle iron with a long rod welded to it which is first inserted into the axle tube on the "broken axle" side to catch the broken piece as it is pushed out of the side gear. Once the piece is laying in the trough, the trough is carefully withdrawn from the axle tube with the broken piece of axle on it. Then get a "cow magnet" and clamp it to a long rod. Insert the magnet in the axle tube and pick up any stray fragments. Then remove the drain plug from the axle housing and flush the housing with clean diesel fuel poured in thru the axle tubes. Just hope that the impact of the axle snapping didn't fracture the side gear, I've seen that happen. If that's the case then it's time to pull the diff out of the axle housing and overhaul it. Why do you think the power divider is "compromised"? .

Nope. Don't like it. I'm too much of a "traditionalist" I guess. .

The ENDT675 was made roughly from 1967 to 1987. It will be found in trucks with the engine code "85" in the model number, such as R685, DM685, U685, DM885 etc. I've seen them advertised lately for $2000 - 2500 for supposedly good running engines. Best thing to do is find a truck that you can remove both the engine and trans from. .

Do it right. Find a ENDT 675 Maxidyne engine and a Mack TRL 107 or TRXL 107 or 1071 transmission and swap it in there. Your existing transmission from the gas engine will not be suitable for use with a diesel, and you may also have to go to a faster rear axle ratio or use an overdrive trans, such as an Eaton Fuller 9 or 13 speed, to achieve a decent top end road speed, since the Maxidyne has a max. RPM of 2100. As far as physical exterior dimensions of a ENDT 675, it's the same as the 673 / 711 which was used in B61's etc, which have the same nose, and hence the same size engine compartment as the B42. .

Cummins, Detroit, and Cat engines were all available in Mack trucks from the factory during that time frame, if the truck was spec'ed with that brand of engine. .

WTF! You need one o' them there new "anti lock" assholes. No more skid marks. Ever. (unless the "ABS" light comes on). .

Fix that. You need to take that driveshaft out and bring it to a shop that specializes in building driveshafts. That is undoubtedly causing torque sensitive vibration in the drive line. .

A 1986 would have the retaining bolt to secure the yokes to the input shaft and thru shaft splines. Yes , I agree, they do need to be tight. .