HK Trucking

At some point in that 1957 truck's existence someone swapped a later model (mid 60's) engine into it. That engine has the equal length intake runners and combination full flow/bypass oil filter which says "END673P", however it does not have an oil cooler on it as an END673P normally would.

The old cartridge type secondary fuel filter was mounted in that location, but by the time the DM was introduced, Mack was using the spin on primary & secondary fuel filters mounted way down next to the inside of the right frame rail next to the engine. In the 67 - 69 time frame the DM's did use a belt drive P.S. pump with an integral reservoir mounted at the upper right front. The reservoir had a lid retained by a wing nut on top, you had to remove the lid to check or add P.S. oil. .

Just spec a longer wheelbase to get the drives further to the rear, resulting in less overhang of the dump box past the rears, and more weight on the steer. Very simple.

An R686ST would have a 285 HP Maxidyne (ENDT 676 or EM6 285). .

That is correct on the "generic" rears such as Eaton or Meritor, however the Mack power divider is a cam and wedge type, not spider gears. .

What about these "B52s"?

It's about time ya got back. This place was startin' to go to hell in a handbasket!!!!! .

BTW, a 1996 Mack should have an E7 engine, not an E6.

There are 2 spin on oil filters and a Centrimax bypass type cartridge filter on the left side of the engine. There will be primary and secondary fuel filters on the right side, and the coolant filter is at the front of the water manifold right at the thermostat housing where the top radiator hose attaches. Toward the rear of the water manifold there should be a valve that looks like a water faucet with a heater hose attached to it. This must be open to allow coolant to circulate thru the heater core. There is also a cable operated valve in the other heater hose, check to make sure that valve is also open. .

Weird.

I agree. The back of the trans shouldn't be hanging that far below the frame. .

If it is leaking oil out around the input shaft, then yes, I would agree. Before you pull the trans, have an assistant work the clutch pedal up & down while you're under the truck with a light, watching the interface of the bellhousing and engine block. If the bellhousing is loose, you'll be able to see slight movement of the bellhousing in relation to the block as the clutch throwout action tries to push the bellhousing away from the engine each time the clutch pedal is depressed. .

....Or if the bellhousing is loose on the back of the engine that could cause the input shaft to wear on the inside of the collar too. Loose bellhousings were a common ocurrence with that setup. A loose bellhousing will also eventually result in tearing the center out of the clutch disc(s) 85W90 gear oil for the trans. .

An "open" (bad connection) anywhere in that fan control electrical circuit will cause the fan to be constantly on, as will a lack of air pressure to the fan control air solenoid valve. Check all connections and wiring for continuity, check the temp switch in the water manifold, and also check the air conditioning pressure switch (located at the A/C compressor), as that switch is also part of the fan control circuit. At the risk of sounding like Mr. Obvious, your truck wouldn't by chance have a "fan over ride" switch that's been left in the "over ride" position, would it? .

That's an electronic E7. No throttle shaft or linkage hooked to the governor, and it has that big electrical connector right next to the inj. pump. .

That is correct, and it would burn holes in the pistons eventually too if lugged too often or too long. That's why I said in the previous post "The key is to use the proper technique and timing so you don't "hang out" in double neutral too long. You gotta know what to do,and get 'er done quickly and smoothly" I can honestly say that even when I was a kid, learning how to do this stuff, I never had to come to a stop and start over due to a missed shift. There is always a way to get back in gear as long as you go for a gear that corresponds to the current road speed and engine RPM. .

The purpose of having the aux trans in there is to allow the driver to split shift as necessary to keep the engine in it's proper operating range, be it a gas or diesel engine. Actually, having both sticks hit neutral at the same time is not a problem, and is actually necessary for true 2 hand shifts. The key is to use the proper technique and timing so you don't "hang out" in double neutral too long. You gotta know what to do,and get 'er done quickly and smoothly. When that is accomplished, a quad box can be shifted as smoothly as an automatic, and the engine will always remain in its proper operating range the way that setup was designed to work.

Also, if you look in the cab, the BCR clutch pedal comes up thru the floor, like a B model, instead of hanging from under the dash like a true R model. .

Don't waste your time. The V*lv* marketing people wouldn't understand what you're talking about. .

Dynatard.

I've seen some of the Cummins equipped B models & L models with that yellow & black Cummins emblem on the hood in place of the Thermodyne emblem.

7/8 to 2" is what was in that particular set when I bought it about 25 years ago. Over the years I've added a few sockets on an "as needed" basis for particular jobs I was doing. Where I work now the shop also has a full selection of 3/4 and 1" drive sockets, breaker bars & ratchets, so if I ain't got what I need in my set, I use one of theirs. .

I've got a Sears Craftsman 3/4 drive set. Runs from 7/8 thru 2", plus breaker bar, ratchet, & extension. No complaints, I've broken 2 breaker bars & 1 ratchet over the years and just exchanged them at Sears for free replacements. .

Budd wheels have always been available on Mack trucks, if the truck was spec'ed with Budd wheels, that's what you'd get, likewise for Dayton (spoke) type hubs & wheels. Until recently Budds were more of a west coast thing, and Dayton spokes were an east coast thing, but since the introduction of Unimount wheels (which look identical to Budd wheels, it's just that they have a flanged single lug nut on each stud and are hub piloted instead of stud piloted), Unimounts have gained popularity nationwide. To convert from Daytons to Budds you just need to get the proper hubs to fit the axle you have. Personally I don't understand why anyone would want to convert an old Mack from Daytons to Budds, but that's just me. .

......and buy the metal QR valves. The plastic ones are junk in my opinion. .