HK Trucking

All the E7 427's were electronic. A 1998 may be a E Tech, or it may be the old type 427 PLN (pump, line, nozzle) engine. My personal preference is mechanical engines. .

If you had straight pipes and the windows were down, you were listening to music. No radio needed!

It's not a "sister" company, it's a big bad evil ugly "stepmother" company. Mack is the stepchild that's on her shit list. .

And sweat stains on paperwork would look very unprofessional. .

They're either 55,000 lb or 65,000 lb. rears.if they've got the 8 stud cone shaped axle caps. Look at the differential model # (stamped on the flat surface just under and to the right of the input shaft on each diff), CRDP 112 (front) and CRD113 (rear) would be 55,000. CRDP95 (front) and CRD96 (rear) would be 65,000. .

Perhaps you'd encounter that same problem as when mixing & matching quad box mains & compounds of different vintages: The output gear on the main box may not match the compound countershaft drive gear. Just speculation on my part. .

Never tried them anywhere except on the steer axle. My only concerns would be that in the event of a blowout, you're finished right where it happens, no possibility of "limping" to a safe stopping place or tire shop like when one tire on a dual wheel blows out, and since the footprint of a super single is slightly less than the total footprint of a set of duals, you may have a little less flotation in soft ground. Keep me posted on how they work out for you. .

I admire your pursuit of perfection. That said, save your exuberance for something more worthy of repair. Owning your own truck will present many opportunities to justifiably pull wrenches, at all hours of the day or night. If you really want to "fix" that "leak", then do what fjh said to do, and make sure you don't overdo it with the silicone, or the drain holes could get plugged up and then you will have a problem. It seems that the "tide of public opinion" regarding this issue is unanimous: let it be. .

Absolutely! Since he didn't mention a problem with the clutch brake, I didn't go into that.

That's just damp, not really leaking. As long as you have made sure the bolts are tight, I'd recommend leaving it alone. If something starts leaking to the point where it's actually wet or oil is dripping, then it's time to take action. .

Maybe one of the "western style" B61 tandem dumps would weigh 21 to 24k. The ones we ran in the northeast, as I said previously were 28 to 29k empty. If they were dirty and had a lot of mud stuck underneath, they'd push 30k empty. .

Shoot a PM to Barry on this site. He should be able to get the stuff you need. .

Yup, If there's oil seeping out between the head and block, I'm not too hopeful that re torquing will help, but that's what the OP's stated intention was. On your truck, did you mean the oil pan drain plug is so tight it won't budge? I'd recommend using the proper size 6 point socket with a breaker bar and a pipe on the breaker bar if necessary. That oil pan bung is usually brazed into those old oil pans, so I wouldn't recommend trying an impact wrench to break it loose, as the bung could be ripped out of the pan. .

Mike, he's just re torquing, not pulling the heads & replacing gaskets. The ENDT673 had the old type head gaskets without fire rings. The number that Glenn stated rings a bell with me, and I think I remember the torque on ENDT675 head studs was 185 ft lbs. ENDT675 and ENDT673B &C were the same heads & gaskets, with the fire rings. One of these days I gotta dig out all my Mack technical literature that got packed away when I moved a year and a half ago. .

Don't forget to jam a board against the clutch pedal to keep it depressed while you're trying to adjust. The adjusting ring won't turn unless the clutch is released. I've always used a breaker bar with the proper size socket (1-7/16)applied to the harmonic balancer retaining bolt to turn the crankshaft enough to get the adjuster at the bottom. Just make sure the engine stop control is pulled out before rotating the crankshaft. To give more free pedal, turn the adjuster clockwise. After turning the adjuster a few notches, unblock the clutch pedal and check the free travel. Usually I set it at 1-1/2 to 2 inches. When it's properly adjusted, put the lockstrap back in the adjuster and tighten the retaining bolt (old type) or make sure the quick adjust has popped out into the locked position (newer quick adjust type.

If a new or rebuilt telescopic hoist cylinder starts leaking soon after installation, it's usually because the pins are worn at the rear hinge where the dump body attaches to the frame. Worn rear pins allow the dump body to swing from side to side when raised, and that will wreck the seals in short order, especially if the driver is in the habit of driving away before the body is all the way back down, which results in the dump body slamming from side to side and pounding sideways on the hoist cylinder as the wheels travel over uneven ground. If the rear hinge pins are shot, fix them first, then replace or rebuild the cylinder. After that, be sure the pins are greased daily and they should last a long time. Also, try to allow the body to come all the way down before driving away after dumping. .

Get out your wire brush and some solvent. Clean off around the left side of the trans main case, about halfway up from the bottom and you should find the number. It's stamped in the aluminum, so it may be hard to find unless you really clean it off and look carefully.

That's a partial part # for the housing. The number you need to find will begin wth "TR".

Don't forget the possibility of a crack in the banjo housing in that area also, if it's a fabricated steel housing, especially on the rearmost one with the transverse torque rod. I've welded up a couple of those that did that. But it sounds to me like he's referring to where the pinion housing bolts to the front of the diff. .

Sounds like you're saying it's leaking where the pinion housing attaches to the differential housing. If that's the case, there are steel shims in there that are used to adjust the pinion depth. Are the bolts that hold the pinion housing onto the diff housing tight? Check that first. .

Use a flashlight. Could be a TRDL1070 10 speed if it doesn't have a 2nd stick or a dash switch for deep reduction. That "differential" switch that you're referring to sounds like it's a power divider lock.

Nice example of an LM. Driving a water truck is fun. You get tanked up & dump your load over & over again all day long. .

In that case always make sure to bump the idle up to 800 - 1000 RPM by using the cruise control, or, shut it down. Idling at low idle speed for extended periods is very bad for a diesel engine. .

Colin Powell would be a kick ass President, but he's too smart to get involved in all that mudslinging that comes with running for office.

The original B model upholstery was a brown imitation leather looking vinyl.