HK Trucking

Glad you made it home safe & sound Rob. Those "slabs" of flattened roadkill you dropped off here were delicious when I cooked them up last night. Tried a new sauce on 'em: used 85w90 gear lube that was drained from a differential with a high iron content. It was awesome! The metal shavings in the oil gave the roadkill a "metallic" appearance! Tasted great, and I won't need to take my "iron supplement" pills anymore! lol.

All the wrong methods being used there. All they had to do was stick the hoe bucket in the load and push while the driver drives the truck out. It wasn't even stuck that bad. .

They may still be "in the building", but they know they have to tow the V*lv* line. They probably know they have no input, therefore they say nothing, in hopes of collecting their wages until such time as they reach retirement. Hell no! It's a dirty shame, ain't it? What kind of an excuse is that? I thought that was the function of the engineering dept: If something won't stay together or perform properly, it's the job of the engineers to devise a way to make it work. Excuses are not a valid option.

Hey Mike, it's been a long time since I messed with one of those "Duplex Clarifiers" as Mack called them. If the Fram cartridges are available, I would choose those over the Baldwins. Mack issued a service bulletin back in the 90's about Baldwin filters not meeting Mack specs. The bulletin was referring to the spin on filters and Centri Max cartridges, not those older cartridges, but ever since then I've kinda shied away from Baldwins.

Don't sweat it, Rob. I can make arrangements with the boss to get plenty more 15w40 "cooking oil" if need be. We've got "fresh" 15w40, for that "golden brown" look, and also "used" 15w40 for that "blackened" look. How about we try some 75-90 synthetic gear lube - might be less cholesterol and calories. lol. .

The heaviest machine we have where I work is a D8 Cat. I think it weighs about 80 or 90,000 lbs. We move that in one piece though, we've got overweight and overwidth permits on the 2 larger lowboys. Even though our heavy haul tractors have 550 H.P. C15 Cat motors with 18 speed Fullers, you still know you got some weight back there! .

The B61SX 10 wheelers we ran in CT/NY back in the good old days weighed in around 28 to 29000 lbs. empty. But they were triple frame, 55,000 lb rears 12 - 14 yd dump bodys that had double floor with oak planks sandwiched in between, and the sides of the dump body were plated on the inside with 1/4" steel. Weight laws weren't a consideration for local dump trucking in that area back then, so everything was built up as heavy as possible. .

I don't get to Sheboygan very often. Last time I was there was about a year ago when I moved a machine out by that power plant with the big stacks on the shore of Lake Michigan. Nice area down that way though. Used to be a real good Mack dealer there, Karstaedts Garage, but it closed up about 20 years ago. Rob, I've got a whole freezer full of them there "scrapin's", and since there's no more room in the freezer I even got some piled up out in the back yard. I think it'll keep til ya get here, startin' to smell pretty ripe now. .

x2.

Hi Rob. I see his truck is a 1990 R688, so it undoubtedly has a mechanical engine, and could have either a Dynatard or a Jake Brake. The Dynatard has a ground out contact inside the governor which closes the engine brake circuit whenever the rack moves to the "no fuel" position by grounding out a control relay which was usually mounted under the right side of the dashboard on those trucks. That is why the Dynatard cuts out once the engine returns to idle speed - when the governor opens the rack to idle position, the contacts move apart, the ground is broken, and the relay shuts off the Dynatard. The Dynatard had the 2 position dash switch (on/off) only. With a Jake Brake of that vintage, there was a 3 position dash switch (off, 1 & 2), a switch on the clutch pedal, and a switch on the throttle arm at the inj. pump A Jake Brake on a mechanical engine will kill the engine if it is activated with the trans in neutral and the clutch pedal not depressed, that's why they used the clutch pedal switch, figuring that once the braking cycle is complete, the driver will depress the clutch pedal as the engine nears idle speed. I have heard some drivers describe "soiled underwear moments" when they were Jake braking approaching a turn, and missed a shift or whatever and then they let off the throttle with the trans in neutral and..... yup, the Jake brake kills the engine and there goes the power steering while making the turn!!! There were no speed sensors in either the Dynatard or Jake Brake mechanical engine setups. On the electronic engines, in addition to the dashboard on/off switch, and the clutch pedal switch, the Jake brake is controlled thru the ECM, which cuts off the engine brake when the RPM's drop below about 850. Otherwise,your troubleshooting tips are right on target, couldn't have said it any better. .

I copied and pasted the link in the address bar and it worked . Nice videos! .

Also, as Rob just mentioned, there can be a slight difference in the teeth on the compound main drive gear and compound countershaft drive gear depending on the vintage of the transmissions in question. A mismatch will sound like a siren when going down the road.

If the trans mount boss is cracked at one set of bolt holes, there is another 2 bosses with drilled & tapped holes next to the 4 holes the mount bolts to. In that scenario, you can fabricate a plate from 5/8 steel to utilize those unused holes, and weld it to the mount, thereby salvaging a transmission case with 1 or 2 broken mounting bosses. When I was back east, we put a 711 N/A pump on a ENDT673C, with the synchrovance still on it. The engine ran okay, but sounded kinda "flat" (Probably because of the retarded timing at low RPM) and had a smoky exhaust through the entire RPM range

Brass filings in the rears means the thrust washers are taking a crap.

Push out jammed anchor pins on "Q" and "Qplus" brakes. Shake loose rusted up tailgate linkage cross shafts.

What, were you guys doin' "shotguns" from the chute? lol.

Every ENDT 676 (EM6 285) Maxidyne that I've ever worked on had the 14" double disc pull type clutch with the "pot" type flywheel. Those put out 285 H.P. and 1080 ft. lbs. of torque and that 14" clutch held it just fine. On the old type adjusters where you pry the adjuster ring with a bar, I've had to stick a long drift up in there against the lugs on the adjuster ring and hit the drift with a good sized hammer to get the ring turning. I haven't yet encountered a "quick adjust" that was jammed though. I like that method that FJH suggested! .

How about if you find a set of 3.87's and drop 'em in there? That would speed things up a little, the only drawback is you might tear up the driveshafts & U joints easier, cause you've still got the same reduction in the trans, but less "leverage" with the higher gears in the rear. .

What gears do you have in the rears Trent?

That must be why those mobile home movers keep a whole stack of spares along with them all the time. .

8 x 14.5 are those mobile home mover tires on the miniature Dayton style rims aren't they?

You are correct, but Rob was asking what an RD690 is, so I posted that photo. The older RD685, 686 etc. had the regular R model hood from the factory.

I don't think they made an R690, as the plain R models were discontinued in the late 80's, and the EM7 300 wasn't introduced until about 1990.

I found this pic in the gallery. The RD 690 would have this type of hood. This particular one is a tractor though, so it may be an RD688 (equipped with Econodyne E7 350 or 400 etc.)

An RD 690 would have an EM7 - 300 with a T2060 or 2070 or 2080.