HK Trucking

A 2 stick 6 speed (TRXL107, 1071) is direct in hi gear and is usually used with 4.17 rears when using 11R22.5 rubber, for a top speed around 60 - 62 MPH @ 2100 RPM. The T 2060 2070 & 2080 have a .60 overdrive in hi gear.

Last I heard, Mike was on the way to VA, to pick up a B53 mixer and take it home with him.

A 1955 B42 would have been 6 volt positive ground at time of manufacture. It's anybody's guess what may have been changed or updated in the electrical system since then.

The people who are working in that situation have my sympathy. It's got to be extremely frustrating for them.

Yes, you loosen the bolt on top of the P.S. tank and the whole top comes off. Fill it about an inch from the top. If it looks like someone has previously put the wrong type of oil in there(such as auto trans fluid) the empty out the system and fill it with the correct oil (15w40). Sounds like someone in the past had drilled & tapped the drive axle flanges to "pre lube" the wheel bearings by pouring gear lube in thru that hole. Maybe one axle broke and was replaced at some point, so the replacement axle was never drilled & tapped. A hole in the very center of the flange is usually just there for machining purposes when the axle is manufactured. Should be 2 fuel filters in the stock configuration on a 673, a primary on the left side of the engine near the top front, and a secondary on the right side toward the top front. .

15w40 engine oil in the power steering.

As long as you put the ID plate with the DM800 VIN on the new cab how would they ever know? Since a U model has a fiberglass hood, and the DM800 has a steel hood and fenders, you'll have to transfer those fender attachment parts, and that fender piece that attaches next to the air cleaner from the old cab to the new cab, and you'll have to drill the cowl for the hood center strip attachment.

Then all the fish will be sick. .

It's especially disgusting, considering the fact that they could have dropped a 237 in there much more easily.

Too bad they didn't discontinue the whole f***in' V*lv* line. .

I'd best not comment, as I seem to suffer from severe hypertension when posting about V*lv*. .

Thats because when your weld cooled it shrank the plug slightly and broke the threads loose. Kinda like running a bead of weld in a jammed bearing cup - when the weld cools, the bearing cup shrinks and will drive out easily. That trick works with stuck cylinder liners too. (Dry type).

My opinion in light of the facts presented is that you should stick with your current truck which has been performing well, rather than spend or borrow money to buy a potential P.O.S. .

That driver is f'in good!!!!!!!!! .

Rob Said: Trouble is, in the wonderful world of trucking if you set your rate at a level where you can actually make a profit, there's always several others vying for the same work that will undercut you. So, you can either: 1) Hold out for your rate and hope you get some work anyway. 2) Match your competitor's rates, only to watch them undercut you even further (this usually leads to a real downward spiral in rates as everyone starts cutting each other's throat). 3) Say the hell with it and sell all your stuff before you go bankrupt. .

I think it looks like a pain in the ass! I'll stick to doing it the way it's done in the midwest and east. .

I doubt they would have put a 3408 against a 16 speed Spicer from the factory, those transmissions were only a single countershaft design, and had trouble staying together even behind a 318 Detroit. That was the clue that made me think it must have been one of those little "throwaway" 3208 Cats.

If he traded an Autocar with a 220 Cummins for a truck with a 3208 Cat, I'll bet he was sorry he ever did that!!!! .

Yeah, then the shoe would be on the other foot, and Mack could have taken over V*lv* and slowly made them disappear. Heh heh.

In addition to my earlier comments, I should add that in the past I have transplanted a 237 and a 285 into trucks with quad boxes and it worked well, no trans troubles. But just like anything else, if you drive it sensibly and shift it smoothly it will last a long time. Drive it rough & crazy and the transmission will be scrap iron in short order.

That's the key: Drive the truck the way it would be driven if it still had a Thermodyne in it - shift as needed to keep the engine between 1500 to 2100 RPM's, don't pull that Maxidyne down into it's high torque band which is 1200 - 1300 RPM.

Just jam it on!

I'll second that.

A better strategy would be to keep it original. After all, this is an antique you're dealing with. .

I never knew that was a former fire truck. Looks good.