HK Trucking

A clip that slides thru that slot in the door right near where the latch is. The clip has a hole in the end of it, you slide the clip thru the slot until the hole in the clip lines up with the round hole in the door, then you put the lock cylinder in the hole (make sure you get that square peg into the locking mechanism inside the door as you put the lock cylinder in the hole), then once the lock cylinder is all the way in the hole, you push the clip further in to retain the lock cylinder in the door. Sometimes they can be a PITA. .

I'd also bet that there's something going on in one of the rear ends.

If the B model designation is an even number (B42, B62 etc) then your truck was originally equipped with a gas engine. If it's an odd number ( B61, B63, etc), then it was always a diesel. In the past I've swapped a ENDT 675, and an ENDT676 into trucks that had TRQ7220 quad boxes, and they worked just fine, it's just like anything else, if you drive it properly and shift it smoothly, it'll stay together. Abuse it and shift it rough, and it'll come apart.

The 864 used the Mack "Duplex Clarifier", that big canister type filter that was used on the 673 - 711 back in the 60's. It looks similar to a Luberfiner, but the Duplex Clarifier was a combination full flow and bypass type filter whereas the Luberfiner is just a bypass type. I remember seeing a few DM800's with the 864 engine which had the filter remotely mounted on the outside of the frame behind the cab.

I just read a story that said he got tangled up in the PTO shaft. Reportedly one of his customers stopped by for a visit and found him dead, under the truck.

Here's the electric brake controller you need. http://www.hayesbc.com/energizer3.html No connection to the air brake system is necessary. I used these in my trucks to control the brakes on the 10 ton tag trailer. Also here's a PDF on the installation process. http://www.hayesbc.com/PDFs/ENERGIZE%20III...on%20Manual.pdf .

Looks like Rob has found his own personal "B Model Store".

I would be cautious about using a receiver type hitch with any more of a drop than what you have in that photo! What you could have done to eliminate the need for a severely dropped receiver hitch is to custom cut a steel plate and fit it into the rear of the frame, like this one in the photo: Instead of mounting a pintle hitch to the plate, you would cut a square out of the plate near the bottom and weld in the female section of your hitch receiver. The one pictured is 1" steel plate, but for what you're towing 3/4" would be plenty, just put an angle gusset on each side from the bottom of the frame to the hitch plate (allowing enough clearance next to your air bags of course). (Edit to add) I've also got a photo of one of these type hitch plates laying on the floor prior to install. This one is also 1" plate, and as I said, just eliminate the pintle hitch and put your receiver near the bottom:

Why do you need a muffler if you're running a turbocharged engine? It would sound a lot prettier with a straight pipe.

May I suggest you read this entire thread: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=8761

Happy birthday Tom! Hope all those candles didn't burn up your cake before you had a chance to enjoy it!

If you do decide to lengthen the wheelbase, don't cut the frame in the middle!!!!! The proper way is to add additional rail to the rear of the frame, then move the drive axle/rear suspension rearward to the required wheelbase.

Without actually measuring your wheelbase it's pretty hard to say, but don't get too much overhang of the dump body to the rear of the drive axle or your truck will have too much weight on the drive and not enough weight on the steer axle. Besides causing problems if you're scaled by the cops, this would also cause the truck to handle poorly as it would always be on the verge of "popping a wheelie".

Because the Jake opens the exhaust valves at the top of the compression stroke when activated. This causes increased exhaust flow, which twists the turbo harder, causing an increase in intake manifold pressure. The boost during Jake operation will not be as much as during "full power" acceleration, but will still be noticeable on a boost gauge. About 10 psi on the ones I've had. As said before, the position of the Jake brake dash switch is irrelevant during throttle application because the throttle switch controlling the Jake is in the "off" position until the throttle comes back to the "idle" position.

Mike said Mike, I think you better put some spring brakes on that truck before you have a catastrophe!!!

Mornin' Rob. No, I've never completely re railed one like you're proposing to do, but I've lengthened a few frames. Always just added on to the rear of the existing rails however, never had to splice way up there near the cab. I think it should be do-able however if you could get some rail thats the same exact dimensions as the original. Since it's not gonna be worked hard, maybe just make it single frame, then future rust jacking & spreading won't be an issue. Cut the old rails just ahead of where the spreading starts, maybe you could just take out the rest of the inside rail, since the trans & engine are out anyway, that would make the splice easier. Step cut the existing rail, then step cut the new rail to match, bevel the ends, fit the rails together, clamp and check & recheck for perfect alignment Tack weld, then recheck alignment, then weld securely. I would also bolt some reinforcement rails inside and outside of the spliced area, extending at least 18 inches in each direction. Under normal circumstances on a working truck I've always considered it "taboo" to splice a frame in that area, but in your situation, that's about the only alternative, given the poor condition of the existing rails.

Yes, an International 5600i Paystar. It's a 2007 leftover that the boss found hanging around at a dealer - no DPF!!!!!! C13 430 HP Cat, RTOF16908LL Eaton Fuller, 4.56 ratio 46,000 lb Meritor full locking rears on Haulmaxx suspension.

Yup. The early ones had the 3208 V8, then later on they started putting the 3304 4 cylinder engine in them. The 3208 seemed to fail at early hours compared to the 3304, which seemed to last forever. The 3304 is the same engine used in the 955 K & 955L track loaders, among others. I remember that steering stick in the middle also had the horn button on top of it.

Hey Rob, I'm setting up another new truck, so I had the mag drill out last week drilling the mounting holes for the lift axles. Took some pics to illustrate how I set it up. I use a chain come along to hang the drill from the cherry picker, in addition to serving as a safety chain this makes vertical adjustment easy, just go up or down with the come along, no manhandling of the drill is necessary. Once the pilot hole bit is in the centerpunch I hit the magnet switch, double check to see that the bit hasn't moved off the mark, then start drilling. I also run a chain come along from the drill to the opposite frame rail, to keep the magnet from pushing off of the frame when putting pressure on the bit.

They should take out the Allison Automatic and just sell it without a transmission. I'm sure the truck would bring a better price that way.

Rob!!!! Use extreme caution here!!!!!!!!! If you use the hotdog water to treat your foot problems, and then allow the dog to sleep with you, you might just wake up as an "amputee"!!!!!!

Unless your just downshifting a whole gear with the stick, and not using the splitter, then it's about 900 RPM.

Vickers. Flange mounted on the back of the compressor.

I've had that happen. Usually oil from the engine got sucked into the power steering and I ended up with a power steering system overfull of dirty black oil. I always ran 15W40 engine oil in the PS on my Macks, I believe that's what is specified by Mack.

Rob Wrote: That old transmission must be a real Party Animal, eh Rob????