HK Trucking

T2050 would be the overdrive 5 speed. The TRL 107 5 speeds were all direct in hi gear. Why would you want to put a 5 speed behind a Cummins? Or are you putting an auxiliary behind it?

Rob, do you smoke the bacon by hanging it in your shop just prior to starting all the trucks? .

Sounds like the right side transmission mount is broken, or the rubber insulators are completely squashed, causing the engine/trans to lean to the right, resulting in the exhaust manifold touching the frame. There should be no contact there. As Rob said, the non turbo thermodynes (in B models anyway) usually used a 3.5 inch pipe from the exhaust manifold to the muffler. The factory pipe flared out to 4 inch at the muffler end making it possible to use a 4 inch muffler.

Very nice. A hell of an improvement!

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=8096

Just found this video of a 983. These had the D343T engine (same as the 1693T truck engine):

Found this on YouTube, this 977H sounds good, but if the guy actually knew how to operate it decent and opened up the throttle all the way instead of 1/2 way, it would be much more impressive. He should set up his jobsite better too, at around 8:00 in the vid, he's repeatedly going over a hump with the poorly adjusted tracks hanging off the bottom rollers. I can't believe he didn't lose a track!

V*lv* will never let that happen.

My favorite "classic" would be the 977H. The D333T engines used in those sure sounded sweet with the factory straight pipe exhaust. My favorite "modern" track loader would be any of the rear engine Cats - 943, 953, 963 etc. Very smooth machines to operate, and the counter rotating tracks let you work in some pretty tight spots.

....and V*lv* does the same with their trucks too, that's why they have a "slash" across the grille, just like those "no trucks" signs.

Actually, the wax ring was probably blown out by excessive gas pressure. .

Well, you got the UPS wheels, did you also get the UPS girl to go with the UPS wheels?

Hey now Rob, you're stealin' my stuff!!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like everything is loose and worn out in the governor. You probably should have the injection pump rebuilt before something comes apart in the governor and the engine goes out of control.

Happy Birthday Rob!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope "Momma" doesn't cause any more problems for ya on "your" day! You have the same birthday as my Dad. If he was still alive he would have been 100 today! .

Mornin' Rob. It's best to get recaps from a dealer that sells Bandag caps. National brand with good quality control, they Xray the casings before capping. Some of the "local" recappers will cap anything, but the results are sometimes less than desirable.

You don't EVER cut a frame behind the cab and "graft" a suspension cutoff on to it!!!!!!!!! The proper way is to remove all the existing suspension from your frame, then install the suspension from the "cutoff" onto your frame.

Rob, did you have a cigarette while you were waiting for the air pressure to build up? lol.

Awesome! That's quite a line of trucks waing to get into that pit! .

I like that color scheme on your truck!!! Looks familiar!

This is one of those times when I wish that truck was here in my area so I could help you by getting that joint apart. What the hell, I work on Internationals every day at my job, I guess It wouldn't kill me to work on a Peterbilt. But seriously Chris, don't give up on it over something relatively minor such as that.

What year did you say it was? The Superliner wasn't offered in 2000, and neither was the Bosch mechanical pump that I'm seeing.

Hi Rob. That's what I'm referring to, the ones that the puller won't even move.

Help With A Driveline Vibration. Bingo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And be careful with all that hammering trying to get the U joint cups out of the yokes, the yoke or the shaft could get distorted and cause a whole new vibration problem. If the cups are jammed in there that bad, I cut the "cross" part of the joint out with a torch, and then carefully cut a hole thru each cup with the torch, cutting toward the edge of the cup until the cut just starts to burn thru the edge of the cup where it meets the yoke. Once the cup is "sliced" like that, the tension is removed and the cup will shrink as it cools and it will come out without beating the shit out of anything. Best to do this outside, with a fire extinguisher handy, and be sure to wear welding gloves, a full face shield, and long sleeves, as you will have a grease fire when cutting the joint out with the torch.

My question is why would anyone want to take out a quad box (IMHO the greatest transmission in history) and replace it with a modern day transmission?