HK Trucking

Amen!!!!!!!!!!!!

Automatics are just a "fad". Manual is the only way to go. .

Welcome to the board, Brandon. Glad you found your way over here.

In my opinion, automatics are never a good idea, but that's just me. That said, today's heavy duty Allison automatics are engine brake compatible, you can put the engine brake on, and the transmission will downshift thru the gears 'til the truck comes to a stop.

Glenn, did you ever have fun getting the liners out of the rear holes on a DM or U model ? A couple times I had to push from the bottom because my half assed sleeve puller wouldn't fit under the dashboard, and actually had the front of the truck off the floor before the liner suddenly came loose. Also welded on the inside of a few to shrink 'em when they wouldn't come out. .

Sounds to me like the original engine in the B61 went bad at some point, and the previous owner had an engine out of a B67 and just put it in the B61 "as is" without changing any accessories.

A 13" wide 22.5 Dayton style rim would be a 13228, or a 31674. Those were the numbers of the ones I used to run on the steer axles of my dump trucks.

More like: Long term: Anything is cheaper. LOL.

It must be a good one, it's flagged as "inappropriate".

I had a battery explode right next to my head when I was 11 years old, trying to get an old Ford started behind my Dad's shop. Guess that explains my behavior, eh???????

Air compressor is tired. The piston rings in the compressor are probably worn and allowing oil to get pulled up into the cylinders, then the oil gets mixed with the compressed air and delivered to the air tanks.

I guess one of these could answer that question decisively: My vote is for Jennifer. (Just don't let my ol' lady see this!!!!!)

Sometimes they burn down the side and into the ring grooves, so you may not see too much by just looking at the piston tops, had a 673 in a B81 do just that, back in 1981. Before you tear the heads off, try to determine which cylinder is weak due to the lack of full compression. Loosen off 1 injector line at a time while it's idling and see which one makes the least difference in the sound of the engine, then you'll have a clue as to which piston to pull out and inspect if nothing is apparent on the top.

You burned a piston.

Also, when you put the older type main box against a newer compound, there is a slight difference in the compound countershaft drive gear, you may not notice it when assembling, but when you take the truck down the road, the mismatched gears will sound like a siren! Been there, done that, although it was a long time ago.

You also could use a prick punch and hammer, and do a home made "knurl" on the inside of the bore where the bearing cup fits. I've salvaged some worn parts that way. Make enough punch marks around the inside of the bore until the cup won't slide in, then coat the outside of the cup with loctite and drive the bearing cup in as you normally would.

Tonight's edition of "Fix That Post".

Schwind Trucking, down by Fond Du Lac. They're painted black and always very clean and polished. Their trucks always look like new. I still see them on the road frequently pulling tankers.

TRXL107 or TRXL1071.

Hi Rob. My thoughts on this: Since your truck is already geared too high, how about putting a lower ratio gear set in the rear end? This would give you more reduction for heavy hauling starts in 1st gear, and would also make your current overdrive more usable.

Not necessarily. Most U models shared the same hood as the DM, but I've seen those "Roadway" U models with that higher hood that you speak of.

The engine RPM's have to be at the point they would be at if you were already in the gear you're trying to shift into. Once you grasp that principle, it's easy. That goes for any unsynchronized transmission.

It's a TRQ72. Single overdrive quad box. The TRQ 720, 7210, and 7220 would be the double overdrive versions of the quad box, with main direct in 4th.

Welcome! Sounds like you'll fit right in around here.

The frame can be whatever length was spec'd by the original purchaser, or it may have been shortened or lengthened afterwards to the length required. A U model tractor is a lighter duty tractor meant for general on highway type hauling, usually with a 12,000 lb. front axle and a 23,000 lb single axle or 34,000 lb. tandem drive axles, usually on 20 inch rubber. If I remember correctly the U models used a single 1/4 inch frame rail, whereas the DM in single frame configuration had a 3/8 frame rail, and the DM in double frame configuration had a 3/8 outer frame rail and a 1/4 inch inner rail. The DM frame is also a much higher section from top to bottom and tapers between the cab and drive axle(s). Most DM's had an 18,000 lb. or 20,000 lb. front axle and 38,000, 44,000, 55,000 or 65,000 lb. tandems or the 38,000 lb single drive axle, usually on 22 inch or 24 inch rubber. I'm generalizing here based on what I've observed over the years, I'm sure there are exceptions on trucks that were custom spec'ed for special applications.