HK Trucking

Don't use brake cleaner in there! The chlorofluorocarbon type can attack some plastics, and the non chlorinated type of brake cleaner is extremely flammable. You could end up with melted plastic, or a fire, or both. Once you get it opened up, blow it out with air.

A DM tractor would be the same heavy spec chassis used for a dump or mixer application, it's just that it has been set up with a 5th wheel and all the air and electric hookups to pull a semi trailer, instead of having a dump body or mixer mounted on it.

Another thought: Just in case the "T2090" in your post was a typo, and you actually have a T2060, T2070, or T2080, those transmissions do not have a lockout on the hi/lo range shift, and WILL try to change range as soon as the button is moved, whether the stick is in gear or not.

Better fix it before you use it any more, or else be real care to not move the range selector unless the stick is already in neutral.. That thing trying to change range while the trans is still in gear will raise hell with the range shift synchronizer, which is a weak link in those transmissions even when they're operating correctly.

Did you check the lube level in the rear diff? Sounds like it may have run dry and locked up.

4" schedule 40 plastic sewer pipe works good too. You just cut it and glue on whatever elbows you need to get it to fit, then connect it at each end with a short rubber boot and hose clamps. Of course it won't look original, but it does get the job done.

The O.P. said: The E7 mechanical engines have the compressor in the same place as the E6 - buried down on the right rear.

Rusty, you have a PM.

Jedeka, you have a PM.

Your best bet is to get one of those generic "tank type" engine heaters that you hook into the external coolant lines. Those screw in type block heaters are available for those engines, but good luck trying to get one of those screw in plugs out of the side of that engine after it's been undisturbed for 45 years or more.

Straight pipe sound from the archives:

If it's pushing water out the overflow, you may have a head gasket problem, hopefully it was just overfull.

I put 315/80's on a CH, but I consulted the manager at my local tire dealer and had him look up the rim with the proper offset to clear the tie rod ends on a Mack. Then, when the rims were received, just to be sure, we tried a rim on the truck before mounting the tires to be sure there would be clearance. Tie rod end to rim interference is common when attempting to use wide base rims on a Mack, unless you get the rims with the proper offset. I've seen that problem on the 18 and 20k Mack front axles also.

Nice find! Keep an eye on E Bay, those manuals pop up there occasionally.

How the hell did somebody manage to break a T2070? Those things are usually indestructible.

Rob, just tell her it's a customers truck and you're gonna be charging him big bucks for a complete restoration, and when you get the money, you'll be buying her all kinds of stuff. (Hey, it might work, never know!)

Rob asked: Like a 5 speed with a 2 speed rear axle.

I'm not understanding all this talk of replacing the entire front axle just to put power steering on the truck. Take out the existing manual steering box and find a Sheppard integral power steering box that is similarly sized and adapt it to fit. I remember Rob Swallows posted something in the past about a power steering box from a Ford L8000 or 9000 being a close match for a B model power steering conversion. Once you have the box adapted to the frame, hooked up to the steering shaft , and a pitman arm adapted to the drag link, find an air compressor from a later model engine that has the power steering pump mounting flange on the rear of it, and use the Vickers flange mounted spline driven pump, much better than the old power steering pump that was driven off the back of the generator back in the 1958 time frame. Then you just need to find a reservoir tank, mount it to the frame and plumb all the lines.

Putting in an 18,000 or 20,000 lb front axle will accomplish nothing unless you beef up the front springs so they are capable of handling 18 or 20 k. Those 2 or 3 leaf CH front springs will not handle 18 or 20k.

http://www.panelite.com/Default.aspx?tabid...amp;Make=4&

Yes. Cap one end, and make up a fitting to hook up a shop air line to the other end. Put a regulator in the shop air line and set it to about 10 PSI. While the charge air cooler is pressurized to 10 PSI, spray soap suds (Mr. Clean in a spray bottle works well)on the exterior of the cooler. You will see bubbles at the site of the leak. Usually the leak is at the "hot" end (where the turbocharged air enters the cooler) right where the core is attached to the side header. . .

To add to what Glenn just said, the Mack engine codes (up to about 1979 or so) were: EN=Engine D=Diesel T=Turbocharged 673= 672 cu in Thermodyne with open combustion chambers as opposed to the END 672 (Lanova) which had precombustion chambers in the heads. From the 673 going forward, all Mack engines were open chamber design. 707= 707 cu. in. Thermodyne 711= 707 cu. in. Thermodyne also, but had 211 HP as opposed to the END707 which had 200 HP. 675= 672 cu. in., Maxidyne engine 237 HP, high torque rise, operating range from 1200 to 2100 RPM, as opposed to the earlier Thermodynes which had an operating range of 1500 to 2100 RPM. 676= 672 cu. in. Maxidyne, 285 HP High torque rise, operating range 1200 to 2100 RPM. The 676 was the first air to air intercooled Mack engine. If the engine model is denoted as "EN - - -, then it's a gasoline engine.

The END673 is a 672 CID engine.

A 237 pump on a 707 would probably make an awesome "smoke show"!

From the article: ....and say hello to the castrated Bulldogs made of V*lv* parts.