HK Trucking

Actually, it's on the side of the injection pump, and most of them were equipped with a priming plunger which you unlock and then pump the plunger up and down to manually pump fuel from the tank to prime the fuel system. In their stock configuration they were a positive ground 12 volt system but the diesel engine models had a series parallel switch to send 24 volts to the starter when cranking. (some of the smaller B models such as B20, B30 etc.with the smaller gas engines had a straight 6 volt positive ground system however.)

Here's the link you want: http://www.jakebrake.com/products/applicat...bo=S300+or+S400 From here: http://www.jakebrake.com/ .

Why are you trying to use the clutch brake for shifting? That's not what it's meant for. All you have to do for an upshift is let the RPM's drop to where they would be if you were already in the next higher gear, and slide the stick into that gear at that point Downshifting is just the opposite, pull the stick out of gear, raise the engine RPM's to where they would be if you already were in the next lower gear, and slide the stick into gear at that point. The clutch brake is designed to stop the transmission gears from turning when you are at a stop in order to get the trans into gear without grinding or having to wait a long time for the gears to stop turning. Using it for anything else is improper and will ruin the clutch brake quickly.

I agree with Glenn. Most times it's a problem with the double check valve that causes this.

Probably because the Hydro vac is shot, and they wanted to eliminate the massive vacuum leak.

Also, as I've said before when similar questions were posted on here: Make sure the injector pump rack isn't stuck wide open, or your gonna get an awful surprise when it fires up.

Deer hunting season is coming up soon. Maybe you could start a new subclassification of that: Machine gun deer season.

Rob, in light of the fact that the engine brake was "hot wired" on that truck when you got it, it's not surprising that the clutch may have taken a beating from torque reversal. That would be the most logical explanation for those broken torsion springs.

As Mike said, in that time frame it should have originally had the setup shown in that interior photo. The 76 Brockway that I drove back then (with 1693 Cat motor & 12513) had that type of shift knob & range selector.

Most of you around here are aware of my dislike for V*lv* and what they've done to Mack. So what kind of machine did I have to move today? The machine belongs to a small local excavating co. which does not have it's own trailer, therefore we usually move it for them about once a week. Lately I've been the one assigned to the task. Ironic, eh???

A few years ago I was able to buy 22.5 x 8.25 Dayton rims for about $20.00 apiece in a junkyard near here.

I'm sure it has the DPF mounted under the cab ahead of the stacks.

Yup. Range shift synchronizer is shot. It'll keep working for a while, even though it's grinding. Then when the grinding goes on long enough to wear out the teeth, the range shift will jump out of gear when you put the power on.

Actually, without a key, the switch would be "off", and that's why the starter pushbutton doesn't work. Change out the key switch to one that has a key and is operational and I'll bet the push button starter switch will work as expected. The key switch shuts off power to the pushbutton starter switch, to prevent anyone from starting the truck without a key.

I just read all the comments and this was in there: The smoking gun????

Leave it as a dump truck. Here's an example of how they looked back in the day:

Try it now.

He'll need an Eaton Fuller bellhousing with the Mack trans mount arrangement. Other truck brands mount the engine/trans by using mounts on the engine flywheel housing, hence a Fuller transmission would not have the provision for mounts on the bellhousing unless it came out of a Mack. Most of the Fullers nowadays have a .73 overdrive in high gear. Depending on what Mack transmission he is replacing it could be slower, or faster. For example, most of the T200 Mack transmissions had a .60 overdrive, so if the Fuller replaces one of those, the top road speed would be slower. On the other hand, if the Fuller is replacing a 107 series transmission with direct in high gear, then the top road speed will be faster. As far as losing reduction in low gear, that again would depend on which Mack trans vs. which Fuller trans.

Now there's a candidate I could vote for!

While I am not familiar with the exact setup you're dealing with, I can tell you that in the past I have had tandem rears (CRD93) where the pinion bearings apparently wore a bit and loosened up. My quick fix for that was to take out the spacer that sets the bearing adjustment and carefully file some material off the ends of the spacer, checking frequently (by temporary reassembly) to see when the correct bearing adjustment was achieved. I don't have the specs in front of me, but getting it adjusted to the point where there is no sideways motion of the pinion when it is reassembled, yet the pinion spins freely, would be a good indication of correct adjustment. Then install your speedi sleeve, install the new seal, (put grease on the seal i.d. so it will slide on without tearing the lips) put some loctite on the threads of the pinion and like Larry said, use a big air impact wrench to tighten the yoke retaining nut. In my experience, tightening the retaining nut with a breaker bar and pipe just doesn't cut it, they always seem to come loose after a while when tightened that way. BTW, if you have the yoke off, there WILL be slop in the pinion, the bearing adjustment depends on having the yoke installed and tightened, which squeezes the bearings against the aforementioned adjustment spacer.

Is the pinion itself loose, or is the yoke loose on the pinion? Regarding speedi sleeves, they're expensive little b*stards, and you gotta be real careful installing over the yoke. Also you must use a seal which compensates for the slightly increased diameter of the yoke with the speedi sleeve installed.

By "loud" do you mean an excessive amount of turbo whine or "whistle"? A leak in one of the connections between the turbo and the intake manifold would cause a loud whistling noise when the turbo is working under load. A leak such as this would also cause a loss of boost pressure. Low boost pressure will not allow the puff limiter to allow the inj. pump rack to go to full fuel position, resulting in a lack of power with no smoke. Since I haven't heard it in person, I can't say for sure if thats what you're describing.. Also, if your engine is set up to feed turbocharged air to the air compressor, there is a 1" braided line running from the intake manifold to the inlet port of the air compressor, and I have seen these leak before. A leak there would also cause a loss of boost pressure.

BS. The damage is done.

The way things are going, you probably won't see "Mack" on any parts boxes before long either.

That'll be the next thing to go. The evil aggressors do not understand the concept of nostalgia concerning Mack trucks. That is because the pieces of sh*t the evil aggressors have produced have never lasted long enough to become classics, and even if they did, they're aesthetically unattractive anyhow.