HK Trucking

Not really close ups, but I have these pics in my files:

All of the E7 engines that I had were all in that vicinity for idle oil pressure (15 - 20 psi) Most were around 50 - 60 psi @ 2100 RPM hot, with the exception of one E7 350 which was freshly overhauled and ran 60 - 70 psi @ 2100 RPM hot.

There's nothing left to spin off. If another company bought the Mack brand now they would have to totally re engineer everything from the ground up to eliminate all the V*lv* parts. .

Right in between the "U" and the "K".

Worn exhaust valve guide(s). One time I pulled the valve covers off an ENDT676 and the exhaust valve guides were so bad there was gritty soot type material all over the place in there.

Here are more: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=2085 http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?sho...amp;#entry10790

Rather than re type it all, here are links to other threads on the subject: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=3674 http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=3711

Before trying to start it either with the air starter or by pulling it, check to make sure the injector pump rack is not stuck. If the rack is stuck closed the engine will not get any fuel and will not start. If the rack is stuck open, you'll get one hell of a surprise when it starts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rob, use an air chisel with a blunt ended bit (we have one that flares out to about 1 inch diameter at the "business end") Apply the air chisel all around the outside circumference of the threaded part of the jammed up tie rod end, while at the same time keeping the threads soaked with PB blaster. This also works for breaking the tapered stud loose from the steering knuckle arm, just apply the air chisel around the steering knuckle arm where the tapered stud connects, while keeping tension on it with a tie rod end "fork". Suddenly there will be a bang, and it will be off. Works for those tapered studs on the rear axle torque rods too. I've gotten a lot of "hopeless" things unjammed this way without resorting to the "gas wrench", including tie rod ends.

BTW, RR, in that photo you posted, I see that your truck has an electronically controlled engine, as evidenced by the potentiometer type electronic accelerator pedal. This puff limiter disabling stuff is not applicable to the electronically controlled engines, you'd have to mess with the ECM, or install some sort of aftermarket "chip". Or take the intake manifold pressure sensor out of the manifold and connect it to a regulated 35 psi air line to "fool" the ecm into thinking the engine has turbo boost at all times. Of course that would not be legal, so I wouldn't recommend it.

When the accelerator is depressed, and the puff limiter is operating as designed, the puff limiter does not allow the injector pump rack to go all the way to "full fuel" position until the turbo produces enough boost to burn the fuel without excessive smoke.Trent has a shutoff valve plumbed into the puff limiter control line to turn off the air to the puff limiter cylinder, allowing the pump to go to full fuel immediately when the accelerator is depressed. This makes smoke on acceleration, but also gives much better throttle response - the engine pulls like crazy right away, instead of waiting a second or two for turbo boost to build to the point where the puff limiter allows the pump to open up. That's how you do it on the older reversing relay type puff limiters. The later type aneroid puff limiters can also be circumvented by setting up a regulated 25 psi air supply to the aneroid diaphragm to "fool" the aneroid control into thinking the engine has turbo boost at all times, thus enabling the rack to go to full fuel immediately when the throttle is depressed. The "on - off" switch allows the puff limiter to be returned to normal operation for "road use", so as not to be out of compliance with EPA regulations.

There was a guy around here that was running a Diamond Reo dump truck with that cab & hood style and believe it or not, the truck had an air cooled Deutz diesel engine.

The relay I'm referring to is that one that looks like an old type ford starter solenoid, if you take the top dash panel off (the panel where the ashtray is) it will be down in there toward the right. If you replace it, be sure to use a constant duty type, as some solenoids look the same but are only rated for intermittent service and will burn out quickly if used for constant duty. Best to just get the proper relay from Mack. Also, check that the cab is properly grounded. Years of corrosion could be causing a bad ground. To test, clamp a temporary jumper wire from the negative bat. terminal to the cab (not to the door, but the cab itself) and see if this corrects the problem. If so, then run a permanent ground wire to the cab.

Accessory relay not energizing right away when you turn the key on?

Back when I worked in the CT/NY area, we used to move the 22B Bucyrus Erie dragline without removing the boom. The operator would stay in the machine while it was on the trailer and swing the boom as necessary to avoid hitting anything when going around corners. Of course this was done on local roads, not on interstate highways, but I doubt you could do it that way today. Did I mention that we didn't chain the machine to the trailer?

That's cool, Trent. Did you have to talk with a fake Wisconsinese accent while you were up this way? Yah, dere, hey!

Just drums. You've got 16.5" brakes - the drum is 18" outside diameter. Yes, that's pretty much how it works.

Actually, you'll need 20" Dayton 6 spoke hubs to go with 22.5" (tubeless) Dayton rims. Be sure to get the rims with the proper offset, as there are frequently clearance issues between the inside edge of the wide rims and the tie rod ends on certain front axles. As stated previously, unless you want to stay with the spoke hubs for appearance reasons, a set of 10 stud unimount hubs would enable you to use any 10 stud unimount wheel of any diameter or width (of course you'd have to also use the unimount type brake drums with the unimount hubs).

Rob said: Usually when they're like that, it works fine until you turn a sharp corner with a load on the truck, then the clutch adjustment goes completely out of whack. Steer one way and it's all free play, steer the other way and the clutch pedal has no free play, tight right to the top. Used to be common on B61 dump trucks.

Guess my dyslexia must be flaring up. But actually the same factors which would cause oil in the coolant could also cause coolant in the oil.

Does your engine even have an oil cooler? I had a 1958 B81 with a 673 and it did not have an oil cooler. That said, an oil cooler if present would be the most likely source of oil getting into the coolant. Leaking head gaskets could cause it also, as could an air compressor with a blown head gasket. The water pump would not be a source of engine oil in the coolant, as the water pump bearings are packed in grease, not lubed by engine oil.

The headline of this thread reads: The DM was not made in 1964.

It looks to me like that was added on at some point. Why, I have no idea. As I said before, with a charge air cooler in front of the radiator, shutters would not and should not be used because when the shutters are closed, the charge air cooler cannot get any airflow and becomes useless. Lack of charge air cooling will lead to high exhaust gas temps, overheating and low power.

My recommendation would be that you get a Trail King HG series (hydraulic removable gooseneck). We have 3 of them where I work. They're quick & easy to disconnect & hook up, the company has had no major problems with them, and you stated you already have the 2 line wet system on your tractor, so you'd be all set. Here's the 60 ton triaxle we've got:

Those would be the "fixed" type "shutters" just for appearance. With a viscous fan drive you would not have actual opening & closing shutters, nor would a truck with a CMCAC (chassis mounted charge air cooler) have shutters because closed shutters would render the CMCAC ineffective.