HK Trucking

OK, heres another way to tell if the rack & plungers are moving: Take off that cover on the side of the inj. pump (the big cover, if I remember right it's held on by about a half dozen bolts with 1/2 inch heads) then look in there while you move the stop control from stop to run. The plungers should be turning when you do this, if not then something is stuck, and you can refer to the original thread for methods to free it up.

The part that moves when you move the stop control (where the stop cable attaches to the governor) is the "fuel shut off", it pulls the rack back to the "no fuel" position when you pull the engine stop control. The fact that the stop control is moving inside the governor doesn't mean that the rack is moving. The rack is the part that is connected to the governor and runs all the way along the inside of the pump next to the plungers. The rack has teeth on it that engage with the teeth on the plungers and when the rack moves toward the front of the pump this turns the plungers to increase the amount of fuel delivered to the injectors, or if the rack moves to the rear it decreases the amount of fuel. When the stop control is pulled it pulls the rack all the way to the rear, preventing the plungers from sending any fuel to the injectors, thereby stopping the engine. As I said before, since the rack teeth are engaged with all 6 plungers, if even 1 plunger can't turn, then the rack can't move and none of the plungers can turn. I personally enjoy solving these kind of problems, and if I was closer to your area I'd be there helping right now, but 1000 miles is a bit far.

Now, if you indeed do have the rack moving all 6 plungers as it should, crack the high pressure fuel lines at the injectors and crank the engine with the throttle open. this will purge the air out of the high pressure lines, and you will be able to tell if you're getting fuel to that point. If fuel squirts out of the loosened high pressure lines, tighten them up again and the engine should start. 2 years ago I got one running that had been sitting for 12 years, rack was completely jammed up, but with a little help it started up without pulling any injectors out.

That's all it takes is 1 stuck plunger to jam up the entire rack. All 6 plungers have teeth which engage with the rack, which is controlled by the governor. If one plunger ain't moving it is impossible for the rack to move, hence the other 5 plungers ain't gonna open up either.

Rob answered this question in your previous thread, so did Glenn Akers, and so did I: Rob said: Glenn said: HK said:

Yes.

Find a spin on filter base from an early DM or R model with a 673, 675, 711 engine, those had the bleeder line fitting on them and can be hooked up just like your current setup. That way you can also run a Mack OEM filter too, and it'll look like that filter belongs there.

Yes.

I've gotten those unstuck before without removing the pump. Take off the side cover and the governor cover and soak everything real good with PB Blaster. Make sure the stop control is in the run position. Carefully tap on the rack linkage at the governor with a small hammer & drift, also you can tap on the bottom of the plungers toward the direction of full throttle. After an hour or 2 of messing around with it, the rack & pungers will usually loosen up. Keep spraying blaster on all the parts & keep working the rack back & forth by hand until it moves freely. Before replacing the covers and attempting to start the engine, pull the engine stop to the stopped position and be sure the rack returns to the no fuel position. This step is important or you could have a runaway if the stop control does not pull the rack closed.

The heavy type trunnion "legs" can be unbolted from the frame & removed sepearately, the trunnion crossmember between the frame rails could be cut in half with a torch and removed, however if you're going to install the stock 44,000 lb trunnion, it has to be slid inside the frame rails from the back. That means that any crossmembers, dump body hinge, etc which are located at the rear of the frame must be removed in order to slide the trunnion in. Check the inside to inside measurement of the frame rails and make sure it's the same as the width of the 44,000 trunnion stand at the mounting surfaces. Or, you could buy one of these: It's an aftermarket trunnion which can be assembled in place between the frame rails. It doesn't need to be slid in from the rear of the frame.

The name of that event should have been: Mack Uptime - Volvo Downtime.

In 1975 the EPA should have declared Volvo to be an Invasive Species.

No, it's entirely incompatible. Take out all the "heavy" parts, (which I assume you mean 55,000 lb camelback), then put in the entire 44,000 lb setup.

There was also an END707 available for a while. Instead of the 211 H.P. of the 711, it was rated at 200 H.P.

Hopefully all those parts are going to a good home where they can be used to keep other trucks running, and not to a scrapyard. In answer to your question, look at the machined area on the r.f. of the block just behind the timing case cover and directly in front of the inj. pump. The engine model # will be stamped there. Early 673's did not have an oil cooler, but the END673P had one, so just by looking at the pics I would say it's either a 673P or a 711

Thad, It could depend on the axle weight that is legally allowed on the lift axle in the locality where the truck is operated. If Bullhead is allowed 20k on the lift axle, that would probably be the reason he is running a "fixed" lift axle with dual wheels. There are 20,000 lb capacity steerable lift axles available, but unless you would run flotation tires such as 425/65 R 22.5, single tires would not be rated for that weight. Here in WI we're only allowed 10k on each lift axle, so steerables with 11R22.5 or Lo Profile 22.5's are more than adequate. We've still got some older trucks with fixed lift axles in the fleet where I work now, but the new ones that we put together now are getting steerables.

With a non steerable lift axle, you let the pressure off during a turn, if you don't, you're going straight ahead! Lots of guys around here are now running "steerable" lift axles, which are similar to a front steer axle. This type has spring loaded shock absorbers on the tie rod to keep the wheels centered, but also allow the wheels to "steer" into the turn. Here's a steerable lift axle:

The Macks that I had of that vintage all had Sanden A/C compressors, so I'd bet that's what it has.

Glad to hear you're recovering! Was the other driver issued a citation? Like the others said, the most important thing is that you get all back to normal, you can always get another pickup truck, but you can't get another you!

Why pull the oil pan and "have a look"? There's nothing down there that would put fuel in the oil. If you have the Robert Bosch pump, I'd say that O ring problem was probably the culprit. I recall the same thing happening to an ENDT676 back in the early 80's and it was caused by O rings in the pump.

Sounds like a waste of a good E9, putting an automatic behind it.

Magnadyne Are the plug wires installed correctly? Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

Check the stoplight switch. if it's stuck on, the stoplights will be on obviously, but you'll also have power coming back to the stoplight wire of the brake controller too.Also, if you have a "trolley valve", make sure that isn't slightly applied, which would cause the stoplights to stay on. Also check the foot brake treadle to make sure an accumulation of dirt or a corroded anchor pin isn't causing the foot brake to stay on slightly, which would also cause the stoplights to stay on.

3.749 for Diesel yesterday at the C-store/fuel stop down the road from the shop.

That could be a new comedy routine: "They just might not be wedge brakes if......"