HK Trucking

285 & 300 (same engine): 1080 ft. lbs.

All you ever wanted to know about clutch installation and adjustment: http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups/publi...t/ct_065607.wmv

TRTXL1070B

No. Once you start seeing an excessive amount of "blow by" from the crankcase breather, it usually means you've got worn piston rings, and the engine is getting close to overhaul time. That said, "excessive" is the key word. Without actually seeing the severity of the blow by, it would be difficult for any of us here to accurately assess the situation. Check the air intake ductwork and the air cleaner itself to be sure all connections are tight and no holes anywhere, and be sure the top of the air cleaner is tightened down securely against the gasket. I've seen a lot of perfectly good engines ruined very quickly due to a leak in the intake system allowing dirt & dust to be sucked in.

Check this out, this is how Matt Pfahl hooked it up on his B61: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?aut...si&img=2371

Yup, running in high gear with the 6 speed will be the same as running with the quad box in 4th direct.

I'll second that. Probably has an ENDT 675 237 horsepower Maxidyne, because it appears to have the single element air filter

Then in my opinion you should keep the quad box. I swapped a 237 and a 300 into trucks that had quad boxes, and there were no transmission problems. As long as you shift it smoothly and correctly there won't be a problem. A B81 ain't a B81 unless it has a quad box.

Well, I wouldn't go so far as to say I'm a "Waukesha Fan", but I remember that the FD in my hometown had a truck with the 817G, I was a member of that volunteer FD for a while and did maintenance on it. Sounded sweet. Sounded more like a Cat diesel engine with a straight exhaust (minus the turbo sound of course).

Rob, the ones I've seen with that type hood were the "western" Macks built at the Hayward plant. The R795 was an "eastern" Mack. At least that's been my observation. Maybe Superdog can give us more info. Herb.

AD1 or AD2. The original Bendix air dryer that really worked. Parts are still available for those, get a purge valve kit and a dessicant cartridge and she'll be good as new. (Provided the compressor isn't putting massive amounts of oil into the air system.)

You'll have to look at these photos in a mirror to make them look like an Australian Mack. lol. Here in the states, in 1976 the trucks had lap belts but not shoulder belts.

Been a long time since I did one of those filters too. A 1965 would probably have the Mack combination full flow/bypass filter (known back then as the "duplex clarifier). Make sure you have the right O ring,and the right filter cartridge, if I remember the O ring for the Mack filter is thicker than for a luberfiner. When tightening the clamp, snug it up, then tap all the way around the clamp with a hammer, tighten some more, then tap some more etc. until the clamp is fully seated and the O ring is compressed. Just tightening the clamp without hammering & retightening will not compress the O ring sufficiently. Don't forget to fill the filter housing with oil before starting the engine, and be sure to leave the top plug loose and bleed the air out while the engine is at idle speed. When oil starts escaping around the loose plug, then you can tighten it.

That's the accessory relay. When you turn the key switch to the "on" position, that energizes the accessory relay which provides power to all the accessories that only have power when the key is "on". It's basically a "constant duty cycle" solenoid.

I'm the same age as you, and I'm still into that type of music too. My wife says "WTF is the matter with you listening to that sh*t at your age"? I tell her "If you don't like it, get some earplugs". Here are a couple Pink Floyd links: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2v240bYbbrM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Enwnt7-j90k

I'll second that. If it's otherwise running well, leave it alone.

I'll second that.

Rob, when your under there replacing the trans mount insulators, carefully inspect the mount brackets that attach to the bellhousing, and also the mount brackets that attach to frame. I've seen a lot of instances where the top corners (where the bolts attach it to the bellhousing) are cracked or broken off, especially on the right side. I've also seen instances where one or more of the mount bolts pulled the threads out of the aluminum bellhousing, so check for that scenario too. The fact that the shifters are moving an extreme amount relative to applying or removing throttle is a classic symptom of broken mounts, especially if that truck was abused by the previous owner.

I'm really surprised that it doesn't already have an air ride dump valve. Every air ride truck or tractor I've ever been around had one. Check this out: http://velvac.thomasnet.com/item/air-produ...?&forward=1 http://velvac.thomasnet.com/category/ories...spension-valves?

Hi Rob. After you flip the air switch to disengage the P.D. lock, sometimes it won't actually disengage until the strain, or torque buildup is relieved between the front and rear differentials. I've noticed that when I've flipped the switch to disengage, there is a puff of air as the pressure is released from the P.D. lock cylinder, then a few seconds later, once the truck is underway again and the torque strain between the axles was relieved, I would sometimes hear another smaller puff of air as the P.D. lock actually disengaged itself and the cylinder retracted. I have never noticed any right to left bias with this system, just the usual "wheel with less traction will spin first" syndrome.

When you install the new bolts or studs, forget the thread locker (loctite). Use a liberal amount of anti seize compound instead. You'll thank yourself next time you have to remove them!

You could use the 5 speeds with the air splitter in low or high, that's 10 speeds, then with the front compound in Lo Lo you could use 1st gear with the air splitter in low or high for 2 more speeds, total of 12 speeds.

Well, I guess that's another one that will be "assimilated" and cease to exist shortly.

A Jake brake will have cast iron spacers about 2 inches high between the top of the heads and the rocker covers, a Dynatard does not. A Dynatard has a relay under the right side of the dashboard (perhaps under the left side on an Australian truck?). The switch inside the governor housing grounds out this relay when the governor goes to the "no fuel" position, and the relay then energizes the Dynatard solenoids. When the governor moves out of the no fuel position (idle, or throttle application) the switch breaks the ground connection, de energizing the relay, turning off the Dynatard, therefore no switch is needed on the clutch pedal. (As you said, someone may have installed a clutch switch for some unknown reason.) As you can see there is a major difference in the circuitry between a Dynatard and a Jake brake. The terminals at the rocker covers only have power when the engine brake is on.

Exactly. Unless he's going to put a dump body on it, in that case I would recommend a reinforcement either inside or outside of the splice, extending at least a foot in each direction from the splice, bolted and welded, just as Maxville said earlier. About 15 years ago I changed over an R685T from single axle to a 34K Mack tandem rear suspension, and mounted a dump body on it. The trunnion was in the original frame, then I added to the rear of the frame and reinforced it inside and out. The truck's owner proceeded to beat the livin' sh*t out of that poor truck for the next 11 years before selling it to some guy up north. He went thru 2 engines, 2 transmissions, several clutches, and several rear ends during those 11 years. The frame held together just fine.