HK Trucking

Hi, Rod. I looked at the photos you posted, and I see that your truck has the bottom inlet air cleaner. I have never seen a factory turbo engine equipped B model with the bottom inlet air cleaner. All the ones I've seen had the top inlet oil bath air cleaner. I don't know how much difference there is in air flow from one to the other, but the bottom inlet type certainly has a smaller inlet, and is smaller in size over all. If you could switch to the top inlet type, that would be the stock setup. As was mentioned previously, that filter under the hood will draw hot air, reducing your power. Herb.

Which type of air cleaner does your truck have? If it's the top inlet oil bath type, it should be OK, as that's what the B613's etc. with turbo 673 engines were factory equipped with. If it's the bottom inlet, then perhaps not, as I've never seen one of those on a truck originally equipped with a turbo engine.

An ENDT 675 IS a Maxidyne. There's nothing to determine.

Actually, all 672 Cu. In. displacement and 707 Cu In. displacement Mack engines are the same external physical size no matter what horsepower they are.

Just keep the Volvo's away, so there's no more Interbreeding.

One thing that I've seen happen a number of times on the TRXL 107 or 1071 is that a tooth will come off one of the reverse idler gears, causing a banging noise when in reverse. It's usually caused by a driver trying to jam the compound in reverse while the truck is still moving, or without using the clutch brake. Other than that, I agree they're indestructible.

Get a spray can of PB Blaster with the extension spray tube on it. Look at the pressure plate. Find the openings in the pressure plate where the outside diameter of the adjusting ring (where it threads into the pressure plate) is accessible. Carefully spray some blaster on the threads (don't overdo it, you don't want that stuff getting on the friction sufaces. Turn flywheel as necessary to access all possible areas with the spray. Then position the adjuster at the bottom. Using a drift about 18" long and a 5 lb. hammer, hit the adjuster tab til the ring starts to turn. When the tab is far enough turned that you can't hit it anymore, the next tab should be emerging from the other side. I then use a long pry bar to pry between that tab and the pressure plate. Once that tab is moved far enough out, then use the hammer & drift as before. Continue this process til the correct adjustment is obtained. DO NOT put a bolt in the lockstrap hole and use it to pry against when the adj. ring is that tight, the bolt may break off and then you've got another problem to deal with. I've done a few this way, and never broke off any adjusting tabs, they do get kinda beat up though, but the alternative is to not adjust it and replace the clutch, so IMO you might as well do what you gotta do.

That will only work if we all learn to yell in Swedish.

if you decide to adjust it yourself, just be sure to do the adjustment INTERNALLY at the adjuster on the pressure plate. On the 14" or 15 1/2" pull type clutch that you have there never adjust the external linkage to compensate for normal clutch wear. To adjust: Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the flywheel housing. look up in there to see what position the adjuster is at, then turn the crankshaft til the adjuster is at the bottom near the inspection hole. (I use a socket & breaker bar on the retaining bolt on the harmonic balancer on the front of the crankshaft to rotate it) Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal to the floor & hold it down. (The adjuster will not turn unless the clutch is disengaged) Put a 5/8 box end wrench on the adjuster hex head & push in the locking collar. Pull the wrench toward the drivers side to increase free travel (actually turning the adjuster clockwise) Adjust it about a 1/4 turn then check free travel, adjust this way til you have 1 1/2 to 2 inches of free travel. Be sure the locking collar has popped back out to lock the adjuster, (you may have to rotate the adjuster a little one way or the other til it locks) Thats it! WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE GREASE THE THROWOUT BEARING! Some have a fitting on the bottom of the throwout bearing, others have a hose from the bearing attached to a grease fitting in the inpection cover, whichever kind it has, put in about 10 pumps of a good quality #2 grease, it's very important to keep the throwout bearing lubricated. Now replace the inspection cover & you're good to go. Never let a clutch adjustment "run tight" (no free travel), or the clutch will soon start to slip and self destruct.

Lets examine this for a moment. Just another way for Volvo to make Mack unattractive, and steer people to the Volvo brand. Just another way for Volvo to make Mack unattractive, and steer people to the Volvo brand. Does anyone else see a pattern here? Volvo Exec's are the ones who ultimately call the shots on how every Mack & Volvo dealer is operated. After enough customers get pissed off about poor service & parts availability at the Mack dealers and give up and buy competing brands, then Volvo will show the downturn in sales volume as "validation" of their intention to phase out Mack & make Volvo the predominant brand. It's a shame!

I think finding (and being able to afford) the E9 would be the most difficult part of the swap.

It's a lot safer with power steering. you don't get that kickback.

Bravo!!!!! Bravo!!!!

Is the thermostat working and allowing the engine to warm up to operating temp (180)? 10 or 15 minutes isn't long enough run time to warm it up, especially in the winter, and it may just be "slobbering" from insufficient combustion temperature. As you said the black stuff is coming out a leaky exh. manifold gasket, that just happens to be the easiest place for it to escape, it could be coming from any or all of the cylinders. Take the truck for a run, long enough to get it thoroughly warmed up, then see how it is. If it doesn't reach 180 degrees water temp, put a new thermostat in it, low operating temperature causes sludging, slobbering, and dilution of the engine oil from unburned fuel going past the rings. Try this before doing anything more drastic.

Better check the tire on that pusher axle on your granite, looks like it's missing!!!!

That may be impossible, but I'll try. As I've said before in numerous other posts, Volvo will more than likely do to Mack what they did to Autocar & White/GMC. 'Nuff said.

Good point. that is why when we unstuck the rack on that B61, we checked before putting the cover back on the governor, that the rack would go all the way to the no fuel position when the stop knob was pulled. Another thing I would suggest is that anyone parking a truck for an extended period should make sure the stop knob is left in the shut off position (pulled out). This way, if the rack does get stuck, it will be in the no fuel position. If the stop knob is left in the run position (pushed in) and the rack gets stuck, the rack will be stuck "wide open" and the governor will have no control over engine speed, and the stop knob will have no effect either, leading to a "runaway" engine and certain destruction of the engine and possible personal injury.

Take the clutch & flywheel from the 673 & put it on the 237.

A TRQ 7210 is double overdrive. 5th on the main is overdrive, and hi split on the compound is overdrive too. I don't have a ratio sheet for a 7210 here in front of me, but I recall the 7210 has slightly more overdrive on 5th than the TRQ7220, and slightly less overdrive on 5th than the TRQ720. I've driven B models with the TRQ 7210, and it shifts the same as a TRQ7220. Where I worked back in the 70's there were 2 identical B61 dump trucks, one had a TRQ7220, and the other had a TRQ7210. The one with the TRQ7210 would go a little faster @ 2100 rpm's in 5th hi, due to the slightly more overdrive, other than that no difference. Herb

Hi, Rob. Last spring when I made my annual trip to CT, I helped my old friend Chet get his B61 with 711 started after it was sitting for 11 years. The rack was stuck in that one too and we managed to get it unstuck without pulling the pump. We pulled the top cover off the governor and the side cover off the pump, sprayed a liberal amount of PB blaster all over the area where the rack meshes with the plungers, and also sprayed the linkage and stuff inside the governor housing. Then we took a fairly large screwdriver & pryed first one way then the other way on that link that connects the governor yoke to the rack. Even gave the screwdriver a few light taps with a small hammer. We kept messing with it like that for an hour or two, and the rack started to move slightly, then we just kept working it back & forth & spraying more blaster on the parts , also pumped the hand primer occasionally while doing this to try and flush out any rust or gum which may have been around the plungers. After a while the rack was moving nice & smooth, but just to be sure, we pulled the engine stop and made sure the rack went back to no fuel without binding, cause we didn't want a runaway. Stuck the covers back on, pumped up the primer again just to be sure, and with the fresh set of batteries we had installed earlier it fired right up. It was a gamble, but if we hadn't have been successful, then we would have stuck a different pump on it, cause he had a couple spares there. That was a 10 wheeler dump truck that I had driven back in the mid 70's, sure was fun to get to drive it again after all that time. Herb

The rack in the injection pump is stuck in the "no fuel" position.

That would be better than using a photo of a Volvo.

I would say you should do whatever is necessary to get the RPM's up to 2100. My Mack "Bible" calls for a no load high idle RPM of 2250 to 2310 on a T673C. If you're getting 55MPH @ 1800 - 1900, you'll easily be up past 65 MPH once you get the high RPM up where it should be. Perhaps that would make the current rear axle ratio satisfactory. Best of luck. Herb

Exactly: which is why I said this: "But why should Volvo spend the money & time developing a true Mack engine, when Mack will eventually either be phased out, or assimilated so thoroughly into the Volvo organization, that for all practical purposes it will cease to exist." And we still haven't seen one. It's a camouflaged Volvo engine. If Volvo had not entered the picture, a new emissions compliant Mack engine would certainly have been developed out of necessity. At least when Mack was owned by Renault, The Renault management pretty much let Mack do it's own thing, because they knew that Mack has always been a legend, and you don't change a good thing. Volvo, on the other hand is just bent on jamming their corporate ideology down everyone's throat, not only in Sweden, or the U.S., but globally.

My point is that it should never have come to this, where the Greatest Name In Trucks (Mack) has been acquired by Volvo, and slowly but surely Mack is losing it's identity. As I said before in other posts, Mack is headed for the same fate as Autocar and White/GMC. A new family of true Mack engines would surely have been developed if Volvo had not gotten involved. But why should Volvo spend the money & time developing a true Mack engine, when Mack will eventually either be phased out, or assimilated so thoroughly into the Volvo organization, that for all practical purposes it will cease to exist. A little honesty on Volvo's part wouldn't hurt either. The MP engines are Volvo engines camouflaged as Mack engines, why can't Volvo (and Mack) just admit that openly, instead of trying to B.S. the public about it?