HK Trucking

Mack3P wrote: A "global cab". That sounds like what happened when Volvo installed their own cabs on Autocar & White trucks in the last years before phasing out those brands. Does anyone else see a pattern here? Thad wrote: Probably to leave room for the Volvo emblems in the near future.

Amen to that. Leave all that fancy chickensh*t for the Volvo's.

Just more proof that common sense is uncommon these days. Nowadays trucks are being spec'ed and ordered by white collar office "beancounter" types, most of whom have never even sat behind the wheel of a big truck, much less driven one. These "beancounters" are dazzled by the allure of saving money, but the sweetness of the savings is quickly forgotten when it costs the company much more in premature repairs to keep the cheap P.O.S. on the job.

Unless it has the older type clutch brake mounted at the front of the countershaft, that type could possibly be done that way, but I personally have never performed that particular procedure by working through the inspection hole. Maybe Superdog would know.

50 W engine oil is OK for Eaton Fuller transmissions, past & present. Your duplex is a Mack made transmission, and to my knowledge Mack has never recommended anything other than a Mack approved gear lube for use in their transmissions. If you are concerned about using synthetic gear lube, there are still mineral based gear lubes available. Go to a reputable oil supplier and specify that you want mineral based gear lube and you'll get the proper lube for your application. Bottom line is this: Mack transmission = Gear Lube Eaton Fuller = 50W engine oil (although 85W90 gear lube is listed as acceptable for these also. Here are some scans from a "modern day" Mack manual concerning trans lubes, you will note that ALL mack trans. require gear lubes of varying viscosity depending on ambient temperature. Again, I'm posting this info to show you (and anyone else who may be unsure) what Mack specified for this application. This info isn't something I just dreamed up, it's straight from the Mack technical literature, and personally, I have always used the Mack recommended types of oils & lubes for whatever truck I was working on. Best of luck.

If your mind is already made up, then why ask the question? Use whatever you want, It ain't my transmission, so I really don't care. Maybe I should put my time to better use than trying to gather information to answer questions for people who don't want to listen.

Back in the day when I was driving & working on B models & early DM's with the TR72 or 720 series transmissions, we used 80w90 gear lube in the trans & differentials. Here is a scan of a Mack maintenance manual from that era concerning Gear lube applications & specs. So, there you have it, straight from the Bulldog's mouth. There's no way I'd use 50W engine oil in one of those older transmissions.

Why were those trucks at a Peterbilt dealer? Did someone have a complete mental breakdown and trade them in on Peterbilts?

Was it making grinding noises at each range shift before it stopped working in low completely? If so, it sounds like it has the classic T2090,T2130, T2180 range shift failure. This was common on those transmissions. Pull the back housing off the trans & replace the range shift synchronizer & associated parts. Of course you could get a rebuilt trans, but that would be a lot more expensive.

Maybe that's a not so subtle hint of Volvo's intentions?

Was it Pierce Fire Equipment in Appleton, or Seagrave in Clintonville?

Could be that the seals are out of the impeller shaft in the turbocharger. That would cause exhaust smoke, and high oil consumption. Every engine I've seen with bad rings or valve guides had extreme blow by out the crankcase breather tube, and if it's really bad it would pressurize the crankcase to the point of blowing oil out the breather. You state there is no excessive blowby, therefore I'm thinking turbo seals Pull the intake & exhaust pipes off the turbo & look for oil in there, also grab the turbo impeller & try to move it sideways. If it has sideways motion, the turbo bearings are bad. If you find oil in the intake end of the turbo, the turbo is junk. If you find oil in the exhaust end of the turbo, remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold. If the exhaust manifold is dry, but the exhaust end of the turbo is oily, then the turbo is junk. If the exhaust manifold is full of oil, then you've got bad exhaust valve guides. Check these things first- no sense doing a complete engine overhaul if the problem is in the turbo or valve guides.

Welcome, Trashman. Hope you enjoy it here. Did you buy that RD rolloff truck that I mentioned the other day?

The rear axle housing # is stamped next to the filler plug on the rear of each banjo housing. Here's a scan of the page showing the carrier #s on the flat pad at the front of the carrier housing: Hope this helps

Go to this link for a scan that I posted with this info. http://bigmacktrucks.invisionzone.com/inde...?showtopic=1666

Apparently the boss yelled at this operator, and the operator went psycho. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/268843/angry_employee/

I have seen some that have a 2 compartment air tank (primary & secondary. It looks like one large air tank, but it has a partition in the middle, and a check valve that screws in the side of the tank right near the middle. The check valve is to prevent air from bleeding back from the secondary to the primary in the event of a leak on the primary side. The check valve looks just like a hex head plug in the side of the tank. A word of caution here: if removing the check valve for any reason, be sure that the pressure is relieved from the primary AND secondary side of the tank before unscrewing the check valve from the tank! Otherwise the check valve will fly out like a bullet, possibly causing personal injury or death.

But that would mean that Bulldogs on the left side of the truck, such as on the B model hood & early DM, R, & U doors would have to be facing rearward in order to face right from the observers point of view. That was never the case and it sure would have looked silly if they had been facing that way. Also, when installed on the grill guard etc. for decoration, such as in the photo of my RB in my previous post, IMHO it would look goofy to have both bulldogs pointing right.

Yup, back in the 70's & early 80's, and I remember the window decals (in red white & green) that had a picture of a bulldog, and "MACK- the greatest name in trucks"on them. Too bad they wouldn't bring those back too.

On a more serious note, yes the bulldogs are always supposed to face each other.

Maybe his bulldogs are divorced.

Why would you want an air starter?

Actually, the TRDXL107 gives you a low for reverse and first and the TRDXL1070 gives you a high range for fifth. The later models were the TRXL 107 & TRXL1071, which had rev, lo lo & direct on the compound & 1st thru 5th on the main. the difference between the TRXL107 & the TRXL1071 was that the TRXL1071 had a much lower ratio in compound lo lo.

Go to the following link to the Bendix website for a pic of an air pressure governor: http://www.bendix.com/bendix/downloads/qui...s_Governors.pdf Hope this helps

Since you are hauling liquid loads, weight distribution will not fluctuate from load to load, therefore I would say load it up, take the truck to a certified scale, and see what the gauge reading is with a legal load. Once you know what the gauge reads with a legal load, any reading at or below that point should be legal. To answer your other question, the gauge will read the weight on the tandems only, since there are no air bags on the steer axle.