HK Trucking

IMHO we may be witnessing the early stages of the phase-out.

Nice job! Looks good! I'll be there ASAP to take it for a test drive.

Amen to that. Volvo has castrated the Mack Bulldog.

I once owned B613T5466 and it was a 1962 model, FWIW.

Yeah, that sure was impressive. He should have revved it up a little more before he popped the clutch, I'm sure he could have lifted the left front wheel if he tried. If anybody drove one of my trucks like that they'd have been fired. I sense impending MAJOR engine & driveline problems for that poor truck. With that much overfueling that engine is doomed.

I GIVE UP.

Rob, that tractor was more than likely used to pull a removable gooseneck lowbed equipment trailer. one trailer valve (trolley) is probly for the trailer brakes, and the other one is probly for the drive axle brakes on the tractor, this way when the trailer is detached, the tractor brakes could be applied. Does that tractor have spring (maxi) brakes? We had a DM at the place I worked back east that didn't have spring actuated parking brakes & we had a setup like what you're describing to hold the tractor brakes while it was detached.

Nope! That ain't the way it works. Even if the oil from the top leaks down while the truck is parked and causes the top to be underfilled & the bottom to be overfilled, as soon as the truck is driven the rotating gears throw the oil back up to the top section again. Mack recommends that the diff. lube level be checked when the truck just comes in from a run for just that reason - so the oil doesn't have time to leak down & give a false reading. I've been doing the lube check my way for over 30 years & I've never had a rear end run dry or suffer damage from lack of lube, but I have saved a lot of money by not wasting gear oil by pumping it into the top compartment & draining it out of the bottom. Above is the instructions from the Mack maintenance manual regarding rear diff oil levels. It says that if the oil level is full in the bottom compartment, no further action is necessary. If the oil is not full in the bottom, then fill the bottom & fill the top compartment too. Nowhere does it say keep filling the top compartment every time & keep draining the excess out of the bottom compartment! How many gallons of gear lube have you wasted over the years? I've never heard of anything so absurd.

I believe Freightrain has a single axle rear with the front mounted carrier, so the upper & lower compartment thing does not apply here. The tandems (CRD92 & 93, CRD 112 & 113, CRD 95 & 96) would be the ones with the upper & lower compartments. I was always told that the upper & lower compartments (and the small compartment on the power divider, if equipped) should be filled initially, then during regular PM's just the bottom should be checked. Filling upper & lower at each PM is how you wind up with an overfull condition. Drain out the excess? Think about that for a moment- if you fill the compartments properly at the initial fill, where would excess oil come from? Answer: from adding to the upper compartment each time it's checked. Makes no sense to keep adding oil to the top compartment & draining it out of the bottom. If there is a severe leakdown from top to bottom it usually means the carrier mounting bolts inside the side cover are loose & should be tightened.

Is the bellhousing coming loose from the engine block? Looseness here will cause intermittent misalignment of the input shaft, possibly wearing the oil return threads. Also if this is the case, the next thing that'll happen is it'll rip the center out of the clutch disc(s) from the misalignment & flexing.(I've seen this happen several times, it seemed to be a "Mack disease" back in the days of B models & early DM's.) Watch the seam where the bellhousing attaches to the block as a helper depresses the clutch pedal repeatedly, if it's loose you'll see a slight opening & closing of the mating surfaces.

Bad Ground to the cab. Had this happen once, ran a ground cable from a bolt on the frame to a bolt on the cab where the hood support fastens to. End of problem.

The automatic shutdown can be disabled if you take the truck to a Mack dealer. Theyll hook up their laptop to the socket under the dash, and disable the auto shutdown. Also the road speed limiting can be disabled or set to a higher MPH the same way.

http://bigmacktrucks.invisionzone.com/inde...?showtopic=1003 Bulldog gear lube available at your nearest Mack dealer.

Looks good! A septic pumper co. up here has the following message lettered on the front of their trucks: "USED FOOD HAULER", and on the back of the tank it says:"THIS JOB SUCKS" Just thought I'd mention that.

Here's a scan of the dashboard symbol explanation from a CL manual, this may help. As far as the shifting difficulties, every truck has it's own personality and you have to get comfortable with it. The bottom line is that the engine RPM's must match the road speed for the gear you're shifting into.

I've seen these questions pop up quite frquently on here lately, so I dug into my stockpile of Mack tech literature & found these pages. Hope this helps Herb

The ENDT673B was 225 HP if I remember correctly. It was the predecessor to the ENDT673C which was 250 HP.

From the previous post: That should read ENDT 673C. And BTW, I pulled apart an ENDT673B which had the piston cooling sprayers in it.

All the KT's were the same size:1150 cubic inch displacement. They were available in various horsepower ratings, and in aftercooled & non aftercooled configurations. Physically they are (were) all the same size. I have seen some KTA's (the "A" stands for aftercooled) rated at 650 HP installed in trucks. As for the question about best Mack engine, I vote for the ENDT 675 Maxidyne - virtually bulletproof.

I agree, Dave The B81 is one of my favorites. BTW, my cousin Bill's B83 is now painted in the same color scheme as that one, just his is a tractor not a dump truck.

Sure is a good thing he wasn't driving for me or he'd have been looking for a new job.

3.87's

JUMP ON THE HOOD????????? When I had all the hired drivers working for me, & 4 dump trucks on the road every day, I had a company policy that if I caught anyone standing or kneeling on a fender or hood for ANY reason, they'd be FIRED on the spot. Steps are for standing. Hoods & fenders are for appearance, they're supposed to stay straight & shiny, not scuffed & smashed.

Yup, you're right Trent.