HK Trucking

The 237 was a Maxidyne, not a thermodyne. Yes it was known as the ENDT 675. It was 672 Cu.In. The numbers are stamped in the block, just ahead of the inj. pump, on that curved area right where the timing case cover bolts on, unless it was originally in a cabover truck, then the numbers could be on the rear of the block, just below the head gasket.

Look at the bright side- At least it wasn't a VOLVO towin' ya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Guess we all knew it would happen sooner or later. I'm gonna have to go slam my head against the wall a few times!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Volvo = P.O.S. Mack truck owned by Volvo today = no Mack truck tomorrow. Remember White, Autocar, GMC heavy truck, Akerman excavators, Clark - Michigan loaders, Champion road graders, all of which were "acquired" by Volvo , and subsequently ceased to exist. I rest my case.

Looks like the kinda guy that would drive a Volvo.

It seems to me that Volvo is hellbent on dominating the global market for trucks & heavy equipment. Like a malignant cancer, it keeps eating up & killing everything it comes in contact with. Lets just hope that Mack can remain in remission long enough for some outside investors to rescue it, however that's doubtful because Volvo has already "commandeered" the Mack engine plant, & transplanted Volvo designed engines into the 07 Mack models. What a shame!

How did an E-6 wind up in a 95 CL? An E7 maybe? Just wondering.

That trans in the photo is a TRXL 107 or TRXL 1071, both of which have 1.00 to 1.00 (direct drive) ratio in high gear. The difference between the 107 & 1071 is that the 1071 has a much deeper reduction when the compound is in LO LO, other than that they are the same. These were known as 6 speeds, because Mack recommended that lo lo on the compound only be used in first gear, then when the compound was in direct the trans was operated like a 5 speed, for a total of 6 actual usable ratios. (I've cheated quite a few times & used 2nd gear lo lo if necessary) Reverse gear was also on the compound stick, and you could use any of the 5 main gears while in reverse. Clean off the area next to the oil filler plug, the model # should be stamped in the case there. .

The reason Mack tells you not to use 5th lo split & direct is that 5th lo is a downshift (1.01 ratio, compared to 4th hi ratio of .84.) 5th direct is an exact duplicate ratio of 4th hi (.84) There's not much RPM drop from 4th to 5th on the main anyway. The drop from 4th hi to 5th hi is the same as from 4th direct to 4th hi, don't wait long for the RPM's to drop or you'll miss it. This info applies to the large TRQ 7220 quad box, not the small TRQ 770 quad box that was used with the scania motors & gas engines.

All the big block Cummins motors-H,NH,NTC,NTA are the same size externally, and will fit, may be some minor differences in accessories, that's all.

The flat fendered B models are either B81 or B83, the B81 would have a Mack engine, the B83 would have a cummins engine. There was also a B87 (not pictured there) with a larger Cummins engine, but it used a wider radiator.

A Volvo isn't going to last long anywhere.

Hey, Trent, Looks like you've kinda narrowed it down to low boost pressure as a cause of the high EGT. There is a gasket where the intercooler core fits into the bottom of that housing, & theres a gasket on the top of the core where the lid bolts on, any sort of less than perfect seal in these areas can lose boost pressure. A couple times when installing an intercooler core in one of those, I have run a LIGHT bead of silicone gasket sealer around those gaskets, just to be sure. (This will really make it a bear to disassemble next time though). And, as I mentioned before, I had one with a crack in the flange on top, extending into the pressurized area, allowing a small leak. It doesn't take much of a boost leak to raise the EGT. Also, where that approximately 1 inch hose runs from the turbo crossover pipe into the tip turbine, theres a spring loaded check valve that opens when a certain boost pressure is reached, thereby allowing pressure to enter the tip turbine, causing it to "spool up" drawing air from the separate air filter element, & blowing it thru the intercooler core. You can tell when that check valve opens up because thats when you hear the sudden whistle of the tip turbine fan winding up. The actual reason for that check valve is so that in conditions of no boost, unfiltered air is not pulled back thru the tip turbine & into the engine. The boost air that is used to operate the tip turbine is exhausted to the atmosphere after going thru the tip turbine & is not put back into the engine. You're right about boost pressure being higher in the cold weather compared to hot weather,that's due to hot air being less dense than cold air. What about that line running to the air compressor? Let me know what you find, now I'm curious about this too. Herb

There may not be a problem with the QR valve. The problem may be "upstream", with the treadle valve (foot brake valve) It may not be releasing the pressure in the line leading to the QR valve, therefore the brakes don't release. By cracking open the line you are "manually" letting the pressure out, and then the brakes release. Be sure there isn't any binding in the brake pedal anchor pin, preventing it from returning to the released position after stepping on it. I have seen instances where a stone or other object would get jammed under the"heel" of the brake pedal & prevent complete release. Pull up the rubber boot around the plunger under the brake pedal & lubricate the plunger,making sure the plunger isn't jamming in the treadle mount. After a brake application, try to pull up on the pedal & see if it releases then. Disconnect the service brake line (the one coming from the pedal) from the QR valve & plug it off, then apply the foot brake,& release the foot brake. Now take the plug out of the air line. If there's still pressure in there, then the treadle valve is not releasing. If that's the case, time for a new treadle valve.

That's how the RB & CL models are set up, with the twin (right & left) steering boxes. Not sure about the RD, never had one of those. DM models all have a single steering box to my knowledge, at least all the ones I've ever been around. The twin boxes work just fine, except there are more hyd lines to cause problems

http://bigmacktrucks.invisionzone.com/inde...findpost&p=4567 PPG # is 40496 Mack Truck Green. Hope this helps.

Yes, Rick, you are correct also about the model #s for the Maxitorque 10 & 12 speed. What I was referring to was Chris's initial post about 2 stick six speeds in the 80's. I s'pose I should have quoted that post instead of yours. Herb

2 stick 6 speeds in the 80's were TRXL107 & TRXL1071 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

With that 955 & D2 on the trailer it looks just like it's hauling equipment to a job in 1964. The truck looks just as pretty as when it was new! Congrats & I hope you get lots of enjoyment from it. Herb

Trent, Is it getting enough air? If you have a boost gauge what's the manifold pressure on a hard pull around 1400 rpm? If I remember correctly the 285s that I had ran about 20 - 22 lbs. Be sure the connections on the crossover from the turbo to the intercooler are not leaking. If the air compressor is turbocharged, check to be sure that 1" hose that runs from the intake manifold to the air compressor isn't loose or damaged, or your turbo boost can be lost there too. Also, I had one that was losing boost pressure due to a crack in the tip turbine intercooler core. How about the air filters? I know up here in WI, it's been real dry & dusty this summer & air filters aren't lasting long, just another possibility. Herb

I've had that happen a few times. Usually it's a combination of two things. 1) The plungers & cams in the power divider are getting worn. 2) Mismatched tires from front to back on the tandems. The clunking is the result of the pins & cams "jumping over" 1 notch every so often trying to compensate for tires of slightly different diameters on the drives. Measure the circumference of each of the 8 drive tires. Put the 4 largest ones on the right side, & put the 4 smallest ones on the left side. With a Mack power divider NEVER put all 4 larger tires on one drive axle & all 4 smaller tires on the other drive axle, as this causes the power divider to work constantly to compensate. "Brand X" trucks with a conventional inter axle differential are not sensitive to mismatched tire as they are a regular spider gear type setup. If you match up all the tires as I stated previously & it still clunks, then it's time for a power divider rebuild.

If it was mine, I'd switch the front over to daytons. I've had trucks with Dayton's & I've had trucks with Budds & Unimounts I prefer the Daytons, once you paint them up nice, your good to go for a long time, long as they're kept clean. None of that constant polishing BS, & worrying about corrosion & tarnishing from winter driving. A lot easier to change too, in my opinion

Also the engine should be running at least 2100 rpm's when it's against the governor. I've turned up rpm's to 2300 on 673's, 711's E6's etc with no ill effects. Wont get you to 65 MPH, but will make a difference.

Also, be aware that the 12513 will have to have the bellhousing with the provision for the Mack transmission mounts.